Lewisfan

Yes. Plain L rear sight. The big "O" mark is mostly obscured under the forearm. The pic showing this stamp is taken with the forearm removed. Is that a firing proof mark? I thought the "P" at top center of the barrel was the firing proof? Not arguing, just trying to learn...

Don't seem flattened to me but pics attached since I'm a newbie...

Dang. Thanks for THE answer! I would've even given you 2 more guesses. No guesswork needed here. Amazing. It goes without saying, but I'll say it anyways - thanks for these boards! What a wealth of knowledge here.

I have a late Savage 1928a1 with the barrel markings as shown below. I've tried searching posts / books for this mark but only find references to small "o" marks next to index lines that were not aligned with index marks on the receiver. The barrel does have the top center punch marks with the "P" proof mark. A second index line on the barrel does align with the receiver index line. It is a Savage marked barrel. The gun is a S-486XXX serial number. Any significance / explanation for the (?) large "O" mark? Could this have been done with the original barrel installation? Or is this likely re-barreled? The gun's finish looks original (still has swirls from the machining).

I have a case that is well used, measures approximately 27.5"x5"x9-5/8", and has latch markings as shown in the pics. Any ideas on who made it or when it may have been made?

Swiss...Swedish 220...221 Whatever it takes!

Yeah...I saw the grip screw set. Screw is sized wrong - the bolt sticks out when installed (his own pic and description). Meh. Not a fan. Also saw the wood. I've never seen an actual grip from a parts kit with a hallmark on it. I'm not convinced that these are not conveniently stamped remakes... If you're happy then that's all that matters. I was close to buying but decided to pass.

Recent auction results reflected much lower pricing than the $30k+ market. If a couple high rollers really needed one - at any price - then they may have just done that with the prior high prices. Maybe that itch got scratched... Will have to wait and see.

Or drop the muzzle end with cup onto a 2x4 (or similar wood surface) to separate the barrel from the radiator. I slightly unscrewed the cup to give the barrel room to move. Worked fine on several different Lewis guns over the years. Have never seen a screw jack tool in person. Not arguing that it is the right tool, just sharing what I did to make it work. Make sure to remove the gas nipple!

Maybe a dumb comment - but make sure that the pin is removed. Talking about the one that slides into place holding the shroud and receiver together. Take off clockspring assembly to access. Like I said - likely a dumb comment, unless you forgot to pull out the pin... Good luck!

Lower is a bnz 41 date with 3 numbers and an "l" (same as pics that you posted). Question remains - how to date a receiver without a matching lower? Another note is that even though the matching barrel / barrel nut have the 6-face nut (vs later 2 "flats"), the receiver does have the creases top and bottom at the trunnion. I read another recent post that states this was done on "later" guns as a more efficient method to press in the trunnion. Although the same post notes that this usually is seen with the 2-face barrel nut (also supposed to simplify production). Any clues to date the receiver are appreciated!

The receiver and all attached parts are matching. The lower parts are all matching. Upper and lower don't match. The lower is a bnz 41 date. The upper has the SN (4-digit starting with "8") followed with an "e". The only WaA I see are WaA623. Barrel nut is 6-sided and the receiver has a safety "hang the bolt" slot. Magwell is ribbed. Is this enough info to verify a manufacturing date? I assume, based on the WaA that this is a Steyr gun. I'm just curious to find out what year it was made.

I think that MK Arms made "C" = carbine SNs, "S" = submachinegun SNs, and "P" = pistol guns. "R" for rifle would make sense. I'd have to go check Frank Iannamico's book since he has a good write up of all. At the end leading up to the MG manufacturing deadline, a lot of in-process guns being manufactured were finished as SMGs - regardless of the already designated serial numbers.

Marvin: "A Swedish K...that's exciting..."

Free bump with a VERY positive review for this product. Fit snug but no change to wood required. Adjusted feed lips on NIB Uzi mag ever so slightly (per instructions posted online) and it ran great EVERY time that I shot it. Great job!