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DGinGA

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DGinGA last won the day on June 3 2022

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About DGinGA

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southeast US
  • Interests
    Interests: C & R NFA, subgun competition
    Member Ohio Valley Military Society
    Thompson Collectors Association

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  1. Just started watching “The Pacific” on Netflix. In episode 1, Teisings are seen several times. First time I’ve seen one on screen since a war movie made in 1942. Haven’t seen one fired yet.
  2. With the amazing run up in NFA values, thinking about getting a safe queen, something I’d not shoot. Have SMGs for that. I’ve been thinking of an M16 of some type since AR’s are all I see at ranges these days. One dealer told me MP5’s are going up the fastest. Looking to invest up to 50K. Any thoughts as to the best choice?
  3. Don’t know how to PM, or where to find instructions for same.
  4. I have a model 50 and model 60 semiauto rifle. And digital calipers.
  5. 6 years ago I bought a 1921A off Gunbroker. Being new to the NFA world, and eager to finally fulfill a bucket list item from seeing ‘Bonnie And Clyde’ in 1967, didn’t have it inspected. At a Thompson shoot in 2019, a fellow participant gave me the bad news: the barrel had a slight bulge about 2 inches behind the compensator (he saw it from across the room). Looked down the bore and saw a black ring. This was caused by a squib load; the bullet almost made it out of the bore but didn’t. The next one pushed and followed it out. After beating myself up for stupidity, I calmed down and realized it was not just a safe queen, but a shooter. Not looking to sell, but it’s time to face the music in terms of value. How much does this lower the gun’s value? It is in excellent condition otherwise. I have what I was told is a nonblued genuine 1921 barrel. Assuming it is genuine (how can I tell?), would it be worth rebarreling. Appreciate opinions from the forum participants.
  6. At the range today, many problems with my M50. Using brass case Blazer ammunition. My 1921 Thompson loves this stuff - slower firing than S & B. The main problem was stovepiping - usually when starting with a full 20 round factory mag. Or failure to feed (which looks just like the firing pin problem well documented here - I’ll be looking into that). The round was not pushed into the chamber but sat at an angle. Pulling back the op rod a bit and releasing it loaded the gun. Without different ammunition at hand (and, foolishly, too cheap to buy any at high range prices), I couldn’t test my theory that hotter ammo would be better. Are Reisings sensitive to ammunition? My ‘21 and Stemple MGs are not. With Reisings it’s always something - no wonder the Marines threw theirs in the ocean.
  7. Thanks to everyone for excellent advice. Most of my mags are Seymours; a few are unmarked. The holes are mostly roundish but two are oval. Once I get a camera with macro capability and figure out how to post images, I’ll put up pictures. John’s post is especially relevant: I thought inner lubricant was good but can see how there could be too much or it could be congealed. Time for some binge watching with a mag cleaning/disassembly session. Glad the consensus view is not to change the retainer. I’m not brave enough to risk damaging my expensive Chicago piano by ineptness. Will be at the Thompson Fun Show & Shoot in May and the ‘official’ one in September. The ammo cost factor gave me pause; with factory 45 going for $2.00/round, a weekend of firing at least 500 rounds is costly, but recently pricing is improving. Besides we FA types know the economics. If cheap shooting is one’s goal, there’s always air guns.
  8. Last week I fired my ‘21 with factory brass case ammo in 30 round mags. With 3 out of 4, the gun would fire one round. The bolt would strip a round from the mag but not feed it. Instead it would close on the unchambered round. This happens with the first 3 or 4 rounds. After that it functioned perfectly. No feeding problems with drums or 20 rounders. If the gun is supported by pushing up on the magazine, it is fine. Thought the issue is bad mags but some are new and all are in good shape. My assumption is the mag catch is worn. Any thoughts? Are Thompsons finicky about magazines?
  9. I saw a BRP at the Creek last year, and was curious. Happily I live an hour away from BRP. Brian, the president, set up some range time, and brought a 76/45, 1200 rounds of 9mm and .45 (and an MG 42). One important feature: these are designed for steel case ammo. We fired Wolf in both calibers. You have a choice of 2 firing speeds in .45, simply by changing out the steel (slow) or aluminum (fast) recoil spring guide. Accuracy is exceptional. I’ve fired 6 inch groups at 100 yards in FA with a red dot sight. Mine came with a suppressor; in .45 no hearing protection needed. It uses grease gun mags in .45 and Suomi drums and mags in 9mm (as previously mentioned). Changing calibers takes 10 minutes or so. BRP has offered 7.62 X 25 Tokarev conversion parts and will again; the next run will be in 2021. So one can have 3 sub guns with one receiver. I wanted a SMG to shoot the hell out of without worry of degrading or damaging a vintage gun. Several configurations are offered: the Suomi M31 style (pictured above), Thompson, or AR platform style (like mine). For the 76/45, being a modern current production gun, parts are no problem to get. Didn’t intend to write an infomercial. I have no connection with BRP or anyone else.
  10. I saw a BRP at the Creek last year, and was curious. Happily I live an hour away from BRP. Brian, the president, set up some range time, and brought a 76/45, 1200 rounds of 9mm and .45 (and an MG 42). One important feature: these are designed for steel case ammo. We fired Wolf in both calibers. You have a choice of 2 firing speeds in .45, simply by changing out the steel (slow) or aluminum (fast) recoil spring guide. Accuracy is exceptional. I’ve fired 6 inch groups at 100 yards in FA with a red dot sight. Mine came with a suppressor; in .45 no hearing protection needed. It uses grease gun mags in .45 and Suomi drums and mags in 9mm (as previously mentioned). Changing calibers takes 10 minutes or so. BRP has offered 7.62 X 25 Tokarev conversion parts and will again; the next run will be in 2021. So one can have 3 sub guns with one receiver. I wanted a SMG to shoot the hell out of without worry of degrading or damaging a vintage gun. Several configurations are offered: the Suomi M31 style (pictured above), Thompson, or AR platform style (like mine). For the 76/45, being a modern current production gun, parts are no problem to get. Didn’t intend to write an infomercial. I have no connection with BRP or anyone else.
  11. Don’t risk it. I unknowingly bought a 1921 with a ringed barrel. Also had a squib in my Reising. Luckily the bolt wouldn’t close despite my repeated tries to get it to. Saved at least the gun if not my health. Sometimes God watches over idiots. Only shoot new brass case American made factory ammo. S &b is good; makes my ‘21 (with 1928 actuator/bolt) run fast. Silver lining: I now have a shooter and not just a safe queen.
  12. The hammer spring guide broke off the knurled knob which screws into the receiver (referred to as the bumper on schematics). I have a replacement knob and guide - but its not the same. The spring guide is hollow, whereas the old one was solid. It has a flange which is smaller than the matching hole in the knob front. My question: how is this assembled? Is there another style of this item? Why are the new guides hollow? Im tempted to just lathe a guide to fit, as it doesnt seem very precise. Any guidance is appreciated.
  13. I installed and fired it. Look for my post “Indy Ordnance bolt test” in the main Reising menu. Bottom line - installed and worked perfectly.
  14. I received the bolt 3 days ago. It is stripped, with an attractive grayish-blue finish. Has their logo on the underside. It fit perfectly with no fitting needed. Seems to fit a bit more loosely in the receiver. The big difference is the 1/16 radius at the lower rear, which seemed to cause all the breakage. With a standard operating rod, theres a sharp tip at the lower end, designed to fit the non-radiused bolt. To avoid all the force of recoil on that edge, I ground it to roughly match the radius, or at least spread the recoil over the whole camping surface. this was done on my regular garage grinder, by eyeball. The gun went back together as usual and cycled smoothly. My plan was to hand-cycle 30 dummy rounds, but they were misplaced and besides, hand-cycling a Reising gets old fast. So to the range I went, with 120 rounds of S & B factory ammo. The gun ran flawlessly. One stovepipe and one failure to extract (typical for Reising outings). The extraction failure may have been due to the retention screw which was removed with difficulty: it had been punched to keep it from turning. Did my best with a Dremel, but it needs to be replaced. Havent checked yet, but I suspect it has backed out. to summarize: a perfect item. Now I can shoot without worry. Thanks to everyone who made this happen. An off-topic aside: my range limits FA to the pistol range. it was full so I used the 100 yard indoor rifle range. fired 3-5 round bursts and semi. The range officer recognized me, knew I was safe, and let me fire FA (they normally dont). On earlier visits, I let her fire my Thompson and SW 76. I do this at every chance, let range employees shoot my guns. Not for favors - but as an ambassador for civilian FA. We need to evangelize for our hobby IMHO.
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