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Rekraps

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Rekraps last won the day on October 6

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About Rekraps

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Atlanta, GA
  • Interests
    WW2 circa open bolt SMG's, Accessories and C&R

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  1. To add to Doug's comments, buying guns as an investment stand-alone is silly. I own stocks, property and "alternate investments" such as my SMG's, car or two and other stuff. Having a well rounded portfolio is nice and smart. 1928 could happen again....
  2. Sounds to me like you are on the right path. I'd personally take a strong dowl (oak or better) just shy of the diameter of the barrel and tap the round out with a small rubber mallet. If it went in, it will come out.
  3. So, only use the aluminum casings for sponge rounds. If you use them for chalk AND use a full load .38/blank, the case will bow. Using sponge at 1/2 power works perfect.
  4. As it happens, I own a full set of almost identical original pouches. This is most assuredly a Luftwaffe pouch (1/2 set), in excellent condition. My full matching set cost me $2,400 four years ago, with 1/2 pouch items, in similar condition going for $1,200 or so. The selling issue for you will be it's a 1/2 set and collectors assembling a "rig" would want a full set.
  5. Based on my experience, both guns were low count guns. Makes no difference now, I've had them both worked.
  6. Hey Brian! Good to see your post. Both of my adapters that I purchased from you work perfectly, adding superior stability to the '76 platform, making it a reliable and sturdy platform. Your design is just great. I personally use the SIG minimalist which looks and functions great. For those of you considering this excellent solution to the shitty OEM stock on your '76, do it. Just follow directions and go slow on the install for a non-permanent accessory that makes the gun great.
  7. Hey Jim, great post. I have owned three S&W 76's (currently have two) and all three units required trigger bar work which struck me as odd given the condition of the guns. It was my assumption (uh oh!) that these guns, even though not really designed for long-term use, would at least cycle through 5,000 or 6,000 rounds before things went bad. All three of my guns appeared to be be low round count so I was baffled. My solution was of course to ship them off to Andrewski who reworked the three piece bar and welded high strength steel to replace the softer OEM stuff. So they will be good for 10K rounds according to John. Now to your question, I strongly suspect that virtually everyone who owns these guns uses them almost exclusively on FA, thus the idea that limiting use of the semi-auto function would not really impact the wear, as most of us have experienced trigger bar failure. From my perspective, the issue is the tiny surface area on the sear and sharp edges. Even on FA the sear moves slightly which imparts wear on the much softer trigger bar end surface and so like a match, keep rubbing and "poof" it's gone. My recommendation is a hardened trigger bar, either Andrewski or some other source if you can find it. Glad to respond!
  8. Nice pick-up! I'm always happy that these guns (and others) are still out there... Regarding refinishing, the vast majority, if not all of the M3's were arsenal refinished after the war, yours looks just fine.
  9. Very nice! Excellent toy!
  10. Pic? I have never seen a PPSH with a reinforcing plug.....
  11. Both loaders are original. I have invested quite a bit of time and money to get my "rig" correct with original parts, same waffen stamps etc. Repros omit the waffen stamp.
  12. Agree. Not a U.S. Property marked gun, so an export or commercial version. Burst is by and far the most common (Auto is very limited in production). Gun looks good, but may have had the upper replaced (not a good match in finish for top/bottom).
  13. Both guns look like unmolested early Wilson/Andrewski guns. By unmolested I mean not rebuilt/refurbished. Number two has been painted of course.
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