morke

To be clear, after listening to your observations I would never purchase this gun as described. I checked and I do indeed have your book and have read it although not recently. I appreciate your work to educate us buyers -- I merely found it easy, as an initial investigation, to ask opinions of this board (why else would the board exist?) My reaction to this is that it is a shame that the original 992 no longer exists, for whatever reason, and we are left with a fake. Keep up your efforts to educate buyers.

I think I have the book but have not consulted it lately. Thanks for your observations. Is the serial number stamp that easy to fake?

Agree about the case. It could be a reproduction. Not sure about the innards-I haven't inspected it yet. Same for the drum. But are the markings correct?

I have an opportunity to buy this from a private collector. It's a low serial number and looks authentic. Any comments would be appreciated.

dude, How hard was it to find a shooter Colt? I've been advised to get a shooter military gun, and modify the actuator and spring to get the higher RPM. Still looking for one but a shooter Colt sounds more enticing.

Still looking for a shooter grade gun. I'm convinced...

All good advice, and as I suspected. I have been investigating getting a shooter TMG and I suspect that is what I might do. I have corresponded with PK re converting a 1927/28 actuator to 1921 style to replace my original Colt's 1921 actuator. If the barrel is replaced how much of a problem is it to go back to the original barrel at some point? My alignment makings are perfect and I'm 99% sure it's the original barrel. K

I have a Sarco drum and I greased it -- can't hurt and I'm paranoid about malfunction. There is a post on here somewhere about making a greasing tool from a pipe cap, hose washer and c-clamp. I made my own and it's pretty easy if you can drill and tap a hole. KM

I've got an original Colt 1921 gun and I've been working (with the help of some forum members) to replace the more valuable parts with others that will work but not be a big deal if they were damaged. The barrel is the one thing I'm concerned about as I am not going to replace that. I've seen advice to use the best ammo to prevent possible jams or squibs. A while back I got some 45 auto rounds from my local gun shop that had been received with a gun the shop took in. They were in poly bags and in good condition. Based on the markings they are Sellier & Bellot. Anyone see a problem shooting these? KM

Some of you may have seen my earlier posts re the Colt's 1921 SN 14033. I appreciate all the help and parts leads. I've almost got it to where I would shoot it (less valuable and repro parts to substitute). I'll certainly let you know when that happens. This process has me considering acquiring another gun that I can use as a shooter without reservation. It seems safer in the long run, plus I'm a collector and always looking for more items to collect. Any advice on what I should be looking for as far as a later 1928 or GI version, and what to watch out for? KM

Ha! Thats a good idea!

I have searched the forum and web in search of an authentic case. It seems like the "FBI Issue" are the true original cases -- is this true? I'm striking out finding a case for my 1921 Colt. I find cases that either fit only the 1928, are out of stock, or SOLD. Anyone have a case or source for a case for a 1921? Thanks, KM

Thanks to all who have provided info, parts, and opinions. Good to meet some nice, helpful people. I will post more when I get the gun to shooting, as in "achieving very low odds of degrading," condition! Hard to own something historically significant yet resist the urge to operate it!

Posted the pic above, and yes, it's a 1928 per the drawing below. It's all correct as is the pilot, buffer and bolt. Just curious about the spring ends. http://www.nfatoys.com/tsmg/pdf/5153024.pdf

Thanks to the kind folks on this board I've got lots of info and the parts needed to convert my 21 Colt into a shooter using 1928 parts. The spring I received came in a bag marked new old stock (although I bought it as used) but the ends of the spring were bend inward on both ends. The spring is the right length, # of coils etc. for a new spring but it won't fit over the pilot stem unless I unbend the end, or force it and scratch the stem. Anyone know why the spring is like this (see pic)? The provider has offered to replace it but looks like a simple fix. Also, I believe I was told or read I should replace the original ejector due to it's rarity -- any comment? K

So to be completely safe I should use a non-Colt barrel?! A squib sounds pretty scary. Is it prudent to use only well-known brand ammo? I have no plans to do any self-loading.

TD and all, I found the Knobby Creek KY shoot coming up this Spring. I'm trying to find clubs or shows more local to me (in NC) but haven't had much luck yet. Anyone know of any or where I should look to find some? I looked found the TATA website and plan to join. I think there was another association mentioned as well... The TATA website has some links to other sites with message boards and lists of "approved" dealers. There are some in NC and I might take the gun by them if only to get more advice. Nothing like an in-person discussion. I will continue to drink from the proverbial firehose.

Okay, I'll wait for Tom's book and study that. I've gotten a lot of good info on this board but its still a bit confusing. I can look at the websites and dealers you guys have recommended but don't have enough knowledge to know I'm getting the right parts. I look at the parts kits currently offered on gunbroker.com and none of them seem to include an actuator. And things like swapping the 21 spring for a 28 just came up. So I'll keep digging and calling folks. I did talk to PK about getting a 1928 actuator modified. He does one batch/year and just finished one! KM

I'm looking for parts like the actuator, bolt, trigger housing, wood that are less valuable than those on my Colt 1921AC. My goal is to be able to shoot it (on rare occasions) without the chance of damaging or degrading the original parts. I understand a 28 actuator can be modified to work, and I'm assuming the other parts will just swap and work. Any assistance in providing these parts will be appreciated. KM

Heck no -- I wouldn't try any refinishing of any kind. I was thinking of an oil, grease or wax that would protect and also hide the scratches a bit. Lightguy's recommendation of the Birchwood Casey grease sounds good -- reviews say it gives a luster to the metal that I'm thinking plain oil won't. As far as corrosion, I am concerned about that and will keep all metal oiled or greased. I will probably put something on the wood on occaison to keep it from drying out. I use Howard's Feed n Wax on my other antiques and it works great. Contains Caranuba and Beeswax.

Bridgeport28A1: Thanks. Yes, it's a bit over-the-top for a first gun but I collect and restore other antique machines and artifacts. I'm also a mechanical engineer and warfare machinery is something i have worked on professionally in the past. I've always been interested in the Thompson but always figured it would be impossible to acquire. I found out it wasn't that hard, at least in my state, so finally pulled the trigger (pun intended). Being a collector I have now been bitten by the gun (especially antique and interesting) bug and if history repeats I'll probably pick up more as time goes on.

Yes, it's the notoriously reputed and debated Pretty Boy Floyd gun. The story is certainly not proven beyond doubt, but some of the facts are close enough that some believe it was at least on the mission to kill him. To me it doesn't matter--it's a nice gun. The gun commanded a premium price due to the "story" but not as much as anticipated, and from what I can tell not too much more than a gun of this originality and rarity would bring. I know: "buy the gun, not the story." Ron: when would that have been when Fred sold it? I plan to follow the advice of this board and not fire it without changing out some of the original parts for less valuable ones, in case something goes amiss! Thanks for your help. I'll get a list of proposed replacement parts for it and run it by you guys to make sure what I'm doing will work. Then I'll probably fire it very occasionally. KM

Pics Overall it's mostly in great shape. Some scratches on receiver (any recommendations on how to make them less visible? Actuator looks like it could be original Colt. All other parts seem original.

I think ppgcowboy's advice is good but by the time I replace all the parts with those suggested would it be easier to look for a shooting grade gun and only fire that? I suppose licensing issues come into play with complete gun vs. parts. That said, is it out-of-bounds to ask for recommendations on reputable parts suppliers?

I'll post some pics soon. Thanks for the advice. In the mean time I'll rent the TSMG at the range to shoot. It's a 1928 A1 they claim.