cantgrowup

Hey.... if Hamer said she was "squatting on it" then I think that it was as Hamer said...... It was taped to her thigh. What I've noticed is that the three of the weapons that Hamer said was in the Death Car (the Clyde 1911, the Bonnie 1911, and the Bonnie .38 Detective Special) all had serial numbers or "United States Property" marking filed off. I'm beginning to believe that Hamer himself had these markings filed off. The Clyde 1911 and the Bonnie 1911 both had the "United States Property' markings filed off, and the .38 Detective Special had the SN filed off. Since B&C were wanted for murder and subject to the electric chair, they would not have had the time nor inclination, not care to modify these three weapons in the manner that they were later auctioned off as. I'm thinking that Hamer himself modified these three firearms so that he could obscure their legal ownership (either to the US government, or a civilian owner). I'm thinking that Hamer modified weapons so that they would not be easily traced to the Federal government, or a legal civilian owner. I'm thinking that the military-issue Bonnie 1911 that was given to Lee Simmons by Hamer as a momento was either modified and nickle plated by Hamer or Simmons afterwards. Your thoughts?

At what price would it NOT be a bargain parts kit?

I just added a nice Colt 1909 New Service .45 LC revolver to my B&C collection. One of these was found in the Death Car and is clearly shown in the Bienville Parish Deputy Sheriff AB Rogers "white board" photo of the Death Car weapons (shown above) that were left after the posse had taken their "souvenirs".

Just noticed this post... I live in the Shreveport/Bossier area and shoot at Long Range Alley or Bodcau ranges.

Hmmmm...... Seeing as how your gunsmith son blued my "1918 WW1" configured A3 and did a beautiful job..... I vote "blue".

The only issue that I had with it was the initial installation. The threads were very tight and I used a bench grinder with wire wheel to polish the threads and worked the gas regulator into the gas tube many times .... advancing a few thread turns at a time... taking it out after each try and cleaning again with the wire wheel and liberally oiling. I finally got it to go all the way to where the ports lined up. I don't know what the thread size and pitch are on the regulator body, but ideally I would like to run it through a die to make sure the threads are cut correctly. Thanks ... Luckily, I know a good gun smith Oldtrooper.... I took the A3 back out today and tried shooting it with the BMGparts.com WW1 style gas regulator set on the smallest port. The gun fired and cycled perfectly, just like it did on the mid-setting two days before. Since it works well on that lowest setting, I will probably leave it there to save wear and tear on the gun due to less gas pressure. The gas regulator came out easily for cleaning after the two recent shoots so I probably don't need to do any further thread work on my regulator. I would have tried "ump-firing" but this particular nearby range doesn't allow rapid fire. I'll try it when I go to my less-restrictive range. The guy at BMG parts called and finally has the regulators in stock ... I have one on the way ... $100.00 ... I'll give you a range report when I install it. They charged me $150 !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks guys! I was shooting pretty good groups... just high. Now I know why!

I've just shot my recently converted to WW1 style 1918A3 and realized that it shoots about 6" high at 50 yds and approximately 10" at 100 yds using handloaded M2 ball loads. Since there is no rear sight de-elevation option, there are no further elevation options other than a higher front sight blade. Has anyone else experienced this? I didn't have a spotter to let me know where it was hitting on the berm at 200 yds... so I gave up for the day. Not that I'm going to shoot this bugger much in the future, but it's frustrating that it isn't spot on at 100 yds with rear sight ladder laying down.

The only issue that I had with it was the initial installation. The threads were very tight and I used a bench grinder with wire wheel to polish the threads and worked the gas regulator into the gas tube many times .... advancing a few thread turns at a time... taking it out after each try and cleaning again with the wire wheel and liberally oiling. I finally got it to go all the way to where the ports lined up. I don't know what the thread size and pitch are on the regulator body, but ideally I would like to run it through a die to make sure the threads are cut correctly. Thanks ... Luckily, I know a good gun smith Oldtrooper.... I took the A3 back out today and tried shooting it with the BMGparts.com WW1 style gas regulator set on the smallest port. The gun fired and cycled perfectly, just like it did on the mid-setting two days before. Since it works well on that lowest setting, I will probably leave it there to save wear and tear on the gun due to less gas pressure. The gas regulator came out easily for cleaning after the two recent shoots so I probably don't need to do any further thread work on my regulator. I would have tried "ump-firing" but this particular nearby range doesn't allow rapid fire. I'll try it when I go to my less-restrictive range.

The only issue that I had with it was the initial installation. The threads were very tight and I used a bench grinder with wire wheel to polish the threads and worked the gas regulator into the gas tube many times .... advancing a few thread turns at a time... taking it out after each try and cleaning again with the wire wheel and liberally oiling. I finally got it to go all the way to where the ports lined up. I don't know what the thread size and pitch are on the regulator body, but ideally I would like to run it through a die to make sure the threads are cut correctly.

I fired my OOW WW1 style M1918 for the first time today with the new-manufacture "old style" gas regulator offered by BMGparts.com and it functioned perfectly. I only shot 12 rounds. I had it on the mid-setting and had no failures to eject or load. I recommend it.

No... but our Louisiana stay-at-home order lifts tomorrow and I think I might finally get to go out and shoot the "beast". If I do, I'll let you know how the regulator works.

Has anyone successfully tried *ump-firing their A3 without using any mechanical device? Can the rifle be supported with one arm and pulled against stationary trigger hand? I haven't tried yet on my A3 because our range is still closed due to CV19.... so I was just wondering if it's possible. I guess one could use the "belt loop" *ump-fire method, but surely the ATF has also banned belt loops as a machine gun. (See how I avoided the illegal use of the dreaded word but I'm sure that "they" see right through my subterfuge. )

When did they switch to the later-style charging handle that is seen on the A2?

Thanks dalbert. I have only recently learned of Mr. Lehman and his famous guns for Dillinger and Nelson. According to Wiki, the Western Field Model 30 was first offered by as a store-branded shotgun by Montgomery Wards in 1925, and the Ranger Model 30 was offered by Sears and Roebuck in the same year, both of which were manufactured by Stevens (Savage). I'm not sure how far back other "Western Field" and "Ranger" guns were marketed by the two stores.