Dan K

I will have an M1A1 with me too.

I had an IMI Uzi come in today. Ratcheting top cover has seen better days and is not functional. Anyone have one laying around they want to sell? Can check the usual sources if not. Thanks.

I have had ATF ask for photos of a MAC before with a tape measure next to it. It was transferred from an individual on a Form 4 to me as an FFL/SOT. Went outbound on another Form 4 without incident. I have an extra 28 buttstock here you can borrow for postage.

Mine left today as well. Be my first go around.

I am an FFL/SOT. I have all NFA items and my license papered to a corp. In my case, in the event I die, my wife will have full control of the Corp. All of our assets, real estate, trucks, cars, etc. are titled to both of us to avoid having to go through probate later. She is familar enough with the NFA items to put in transfer forms, granted on paper, not e forms, and dispose of the NFA items lawfully. She is also familar enough to close my books out and surrender my license, if she so chooses to do either. Assuming she is not around, there are attorneys that are familar enough with closing out FFLs estates you can appoint to do so. My old man died without a will. It was very difficult to deal with his estate. I recommend doing estate planning in your particular state with an estate planning attorney. The legal fees upfront will be less than probate fees later.

Welcome from Northern IN, USA.

This seems easy enough to knock off. Problem being to get the price anywhere near reasonable you'd have to run at least 500 or 1000 units. If you have a Bridgeport and a lathe you could probably do it. Aluminum bar stock, 22 barrel blank, tool steel or 4140 for the bottom of the bolt/bolt face, find a tool & die shop to heat treat it for you if you don't have a furnace. You could draw this up in solid works or inventor fairly quickly and if you have a local tool & die shop slow they might do it for you. Over the winter I might make one on my equipment, depends how busy I am. 45 ACP loads cheap when you cast your own.

I am interested to see if the M1A1 will run the H&G 68 SWC. That is one of my favorite 45 profiles. Years ago, there was a guy in town who shot a lot of lead with a comp'ed pistol. To get the lead out, he would dip it in a Mayo jar with Mercury in it. I looked it up and lead is soluable in Mercury. I would suspect that would be frowned upon today and I doubt you could just go buy a jar of Mercury. The Mercury in thermometers is long gone replaced by alcohol.

Like dipped in Dri-Slide and set out to dry? I wonder how effective that might be in preventing any leading?Similar to powder graphite. There is a school of thought moly bullets are harmful to barrels. The idea is to get away with the mess and smoke from wax bullet lubes. I am running jacketed because I have some on hand. I have cast and run lead for well over the past decade and will likely move to lead when I run out of jacketed for the M1A1.

If it is what I am thinking it is a molybdenum disulfate costing. This takes the place of the traditional wax bullet lube.

I will look him up, thanks, TD.

I found the sear spring weak and the sear lever spring was about an eighth of an inch shorter than a GI one. You guys called it, thanks again. I also replaced the trigger and disconnector springs while I was in there and replaced the main op spring. I'll go test fire out back later when it cools off.

Deerslayer, this is a wartime Savage M1A1. No, it has functioned as designed since I got it. The previous owner claims never to have fired it.

Last night I was out back, SMG in left hand on pistol grip, insert mag, seat with palm of hand, bolt closes, bang. Cycles, bolt locked to rear, ready to fire. Slug went into the base of where the grass meets the 100 yds of dirt I have piled up out back. No injuries. Safety off, selector full. I am absolutely sure bugger hook off trigger and even if it was I would have got more than one round since it was set to full before I could have reacted. I have not torn the lower apart, I cleaned and lubed about 100 rds ago. I am thinking replacing sear spring and other lower springs. I have not been able to duplicate it with dummy rds. SMG functions normally. Bolt does not close if you tap the butt stock on floor either. Ideas?

Typically you will have an OAL listed in the manual based on SAAMI/CIP if it is an established round. I generally load 45 ACP between 1.250-1.260" OAL depending on fit into the magazine. All else held equal, the longer the OAL the lower the pressure for a given round. With high pressure rounds, i.e. 40 S&W, I'd worry more about deeply seating bullets than 45 ACP. I'd also worry about driving a bottleneck round into the lands and touching it off more than 45 ACP OAL too. 45 ACP does the job by being big, fat, and slow which is indicative of a low pressure round.

Nothing a little MIG weld and dressing won't fix.

Rember the old Unique before it was reformulated to be "cleaner"? Flaming dirt was appropriate to describe the old Unique. Almost as filthy as 22 RF.

I've loaded Clays before, Solo 1000 is cleaner burning and softer shooting which is why I prefer it. I have an unopened keg of 231 I need to burn up. After I use up the powder in the chargemaster I will work up some loads for it. I got it some years ago free. Back when it was "230" it was THE 45 acp powder along with Bullseye. Lots of guys still load it I just never have.

Wanted to compare notes. I have loaded metallic ammo for decades. I loaded 30 rds tonight and found only towards the top end of book max ran my M1A1. I typically try and keep my loads at 90% of book max, nothing I do needs to push it. I highly doubt I am anywhere near book max velocity or pressure. I would have to make a chamber cast to be sure, but I suspect my M1A1 is well towards the max range of SAAMI specs, this is a subgun, not a pressure barrel. I did not have time tonight to drag the chrono out. Ten of each start 4.5 gr, mid point 5.0 gr, end 5.5 gr Solo 1000, WLP, 230 gr FMJ, 1.250" OAL. Weather was about 75 F, sunny, low humidity, typical of Northern IN this time of year. 4.5 gr would not run either in semi or full reliably, 5.0 gr ran in semi but not full, 5.5 gr ran in full. I will load up a larger sample and try again. When I settle on a load I am tooling the Camdex up to fill a bucket.

Thanks guys. I'm spoiled I can shoot out back and have a very tolerant wife. I like the WW2 stuff, knowing it saw service so we are not all speaking German. Never cared for the Nazi marked stuff, however, I did acquire a Nazi marked Mauser HSc for free I am quite found of. One day I'll pass it on to the next generation. I finally tracked down a dozen 30 rd mags plus I got five 20 rd included. Now to load ammo.

I picked this up about a month ago. Not my first MG but first Thompson. I was looking for a 1928 originally however the M1A1 seems to be a very robust & simple Thompson. I am quite happy. Runs great and is more accurate than the operator. Someone appears to have unsuccessfully attempted to rebarrel it with a pipe wrench. Barrel is not original I assume since it is blued and the balance is parked (or was at one point). The front sight ring had the pin hole drilled crocked and oversize. I made a pin and pressed it in to set the sight at 12 o'clock. I'm assuming it was rearsenaled at some point based on the SAA stamp on the stock. I am thinking it was probably refinished at some point when it was rearsenaled, however, the Auto Ord markings are deep and crisp. There are thin stamps opposite the ejection port that appear to be proof marks. After the weather turns cold I am likely sending her off to a specialized Thompson Smith to rebarrel. I emailed a couple and did not hear back.