Burgernut

What has helped me with the Khar mags is clipping coils off the springs. I started with 1 or 2 and then got braver an took a whole lot more. I can't say how many but between 8 magazines I threw away a lot of clipped coils. I seem to remember no two of them were the same length, they're all 20 rounders. Anyway, what I started shooting for was to be able to load all 20 rounds without a struggle. I threw caution out the window with a couple of them and cut till I could load all 20 easy. They work now much better, feeding of the rounds is much smoother, I've since done the other 6. I only have now about 2 coils that extend below the base plate when the mag is apart, also makes the magazines a whole lot easier to disassemble for cleaning. I still don't get to the range often enough to give a good test but before I could count on 8-10 jams in an 80-round session. I had 2 in 80 two weeks ago. The gun has approximately 300 rounds through it, it's getting better.

I'm with Varmiter on this. This is crap, you follow the rules, try to be legal, and still have to be concerned about rogue law enforcement.

To have the tools and the skills to use them, I'm a little jealous.

Another vote here for the Green Mountain Barrel. I've had one for some time now on a 1927A1 and the thing has better accuracy than it deserves. I haven't yet blued it, it's still in the white, but it's not bothering me-yet. The fact you can weld will really simplify things on the compensator. Try to source one that is threaded, and it will screw right on, it may also give you more lea-way in zeroing it when the time comes.

That is excellent, I'm groovin that rear sight.

K Squared, everything 68coupe said, I've never fit it either, but I do polish the whole pin and the track in the bolt as best I can.

I think you got it right. I've had to take down that area on a couple I have used. The sear really hasn't got much movement in that area. I've found it easier to go ahead and remove the safety first, you're probably going to have to trip the sear manually through the sear hole to release the firing pin a couple of times before you get it right. I filed a little put it back in try it, if it cocks but doesn't fire, trip the sear to release the firing pin, break it down and take off a little more. Those two cross pins on the bolt take a pretty good whack to get out, but I prefer to take the pin out where I can measure how much I'm taking off. I've found I only need to remove the middle one on a firing pin that the tip was broke off of, I don't know, haven't tried, to see if that works on a full one. The main thing, I think, is to stop as soon as you get enough off to release the pin, that means to me anyway, take your time and take off very little and test. Also, if the firing pin won't fire but is caught by the sear, you won't be able to break the gun down until you release the sear through the safety hole. Hope this helps.

Merry plowboy's short 5th paragraph in his above response is chilling to me. People's voting practices really are becoming more worrisome.

Imagin this kind of service if it was in the private sector, with the kind of money that's involved, only in government. Tax dollars at work.

In reply to PK question, I've been trimming the 20-rd. spring in a 20-rd. mag to try and give less resistance in feeding. I have removed 3 full coils and it still works and feels smoother and easier to load. Bear in mind this is just playing with inert rounds, I have not shot this thing yet. As thirtyround opined, do it only on one end to keep the loop under the follower factory fresh.

I recently acquired, finally, a 1927A1. Over the evening and nighttime hours, I reduce it, right out of the box to pieces. Anyway, I have a Farrel barrel vice mounted on my bench I've used for a couple of years. It uses aluminum v blocks top and bottom. I clamped it down right even with the end of the grip mount, 15-inch crescent wrench on the receiver snout and it popped loose surprising easy, at least on this one. I was leery of gripping the barrel that far down, but I really cranked down on the vice nuts, was thinking I would damage the fins, but it didn't leave noticeable marks. What gave me fits was getting the grip mount out of the receiver, it was TIGHT.

I like it, be neat to be able to incorporate some kind of push button catch into that.

jojeep, excellent, those pics are just what I needed. I'm not too concerned with a thread match for this application, I'm leaning more towards an allen head screw or bolt for this.

I see now that I must have been dreaming about 2 screws thru the grip mount an into the barrel threads, it looks like there's only enough room for 1. Barrel only appears to go about 1/2" into receiver.

I've seen a picture of a grip mount that has one screw, and another that used two through the grip mount (don't remember where, probably on here somewhere). The gunsmith here is more than capable of drilling and tapping the receiver and drilling mount. I wonder if a setup of having the barrel screw on hand tight to a hard stop is inferior to maybe having a slight torque on the barrel to a hard stop. Any chance of those screws working loose from heat or vibrations?

Thanks for the replies fellows,jojeep,I hope to do what you did concerning the quick disconnect and the longer forend. I would tend as of now to go with a spot weld over the pin on the comp. There's a gunsmith here that can do the drilling for the pin, and can do hot bluing,but will be up to me to do the spot weld.

I have a 14-1/2" Green Mountain barrel that I hope to one day put on a 1927A1 AO. The AO compensator screws on just fine. What's bothering me some is the pin and welding business that I'm told the ATF requires. Is there any other way to do it that you guys know of that still satisfies the ATF.

Ruger's PC9 carbine uses a tungsten weight insert. It has a little slop front and back to give it their "dead blow" countering force on opening and closing. It probably would take serious machining effort to translate that to a Thompson bolt.

I like you're thinking MM, the answers that seem most plausible to me are to prevent bolt bounce. I can kinda visualize in a full auto the bounce not being critical because the bolt's going back anyways. It seems like the semi should have a heavier bolt than the full auto if it needs to remain shut for a few milliseconds. I'd like to see an oversized bolt knob made that mimics the original, just larger. I hope you get time to pursue your idea's.

Seriously, what the hell is up with Kahr? I've been toying with the idea of buying one of these things for a couple of years. Sometimes I'm put off by lack of availability, then there's the price, $1700+ probably a couple hundred dollars more for mags, mag work, gun tuning, maybe professional assistance. The owners can't get satisfaction by sending them back to the company. It seems some are problematic right out of the box. I'm almost of the belief that they are intentionally trying to run themselves out of business.

Been doing alittle reading on Kahrs and watching videos on both semi and the real deal full autos and the griping about stiff springs. I'm kinda new to these things,but whats sticking in my head is how easily the open bolt guns cock versus the horrible scene of guys trying to chamber rounds in the semi's. When you see dismounting videos the open bolt guns have one spring, dose'nt look all that stiff, but the closed bolt semi's have two and appear to be way stiffer. I see where replacement springs kits are made to help with this, but the question remains why such hellish recoil springs on the semi's?

About the same year and time as Hammer spoke of,6-7 years old, begging parents to stay up later. I had one of those Mattel Tommies. I remember ( I think) it having a Cutts on the barrel, but having the cocking knob on the side. You pulled it back and pulled the trigger, it would rattle foward for a couple of seconds. I would lay in the living room floor in front of the t.v. that got all of 2 channels and help Sgt. Saunders shoot Germans. What a time to be a kid. Seemed like every dad on the block was a WW2 Vet.

I got one of the 14" Green Mountain barrels awhile back, anticipating getting a Thompson. I also ordered one of those brakes from Numrich, it screws right on, but your right,there's no logo on it.

Well stated WW2, I'm just getting to where I don't handle aggravation well. I still don't even have a Thompson, and don't no when I will. Can't seem to find anything firearm related in stock. If and when the day comes and I can set down at the computer and order what I want from a wholesaler and have it delivered it to my dealer( if he still able to keep his doors open,bless his heart) not to mention reloading supplies, my mood will improve.

This kind of conversation is what drives me away from sbr-ing I'm trying to make myself comfortable with pinned comps and 14" barrels, but I admit it the idea galls me a little bit.