Frank I.

I made a video of mine, note the position of the auto-connector lever, it is higher than the one in your video. Image quality is not very good, but I think it is sufficient. Check the hole that the spring for the auto-connector fits, make sure there isn't part of a spring or spring cap inside the hole.

It looks like the auto-connector is installed incorrectly, unless the trigger is pulled, it should be higher as in the lower photo. The tab on the auto-connector bar rides over the top of the leg of the selector lever. Check to see if the auto-connector lever spring is installed OR the trigger is stuck back in the fire position, try very GENTLY tapping it forward with a plastic hammer.

I took my Model 50 Reising out today, and once again it broke yet ANOTHER firing pin. The pin was a modified (inertia) Keystone titanium pin, this one lasted less than 500 rounds, which seems normal. The entire (reduced diameter pin) snapped off right at the base of the pin. I have lost count of how many firing pins I have broken...a LOT I hope Mr. Cort Tompkins is still working toward a solution to this problem.

I assume that the trigger worked ok before disassembly? Try moving the selector, to semi-full-safe, Check all the parts that the triggers actuates, the sear etc. After you figure out the problem, please post what the problem was as a reference to possibly help others facing a similar problem. Good luck

That mag was SPF but thanks for the referral

The 30-06 and .30 carbine caliber Thompsons were both formerly owned by the late Mike Free of PA.

SOLD pending funds 1 NOS USGI WWII 20-round magazine has a scratch on front. Mag came in a crate of Russian lend-lease magazines. Never been in a gun. (blank no manufacturer’s markings) (these were mfg by Sparks-Withington WWII) $75.00 + $10.00 shipping

DTD Detroit Transmission Division (of GM)

The Reising I have now, I bought in 1990, I have broken NUMEROUS firing pins, two bolts, had an end cap break in two, and an ejector broke. I have not fired it that much over the years, just about every time I took it out, something broke. I still like shooting it though...

I remember speaking with Mr. Spano on the phone when I was researching my M3 book, he was very courteous and answered all my questions about his Medea grease guns. I remember he told me they were Guide Lamp stamping dies, but the "checkered" pattern on the pistol grip tells me that the dies were probably from Ithaca's post WWII production run. RIP Sir

Reising Dates of Production 1941 Serial Numbers 101-8500 1942 Serial Numbers 8501-73600 1943 Serial Numbers 73601-114317 1950 Serial Numbers K101 to K973 1951 Serial Numbers L101 to L3589 1952 No production 1953 Serial Numbers N111 to N327 1954-1956 No production 1957 Serial Numbers S4700 to S5607* Reisings stored at Quantico MODEL 50: 154 11372 15696 53097 113539 MODEL 55: 13189 15296 62230 62934 62818 Model 60: 1333

I want to do some more testing with pins made from S7 tool steel. If that goes well I'll make up a small batch for sale. First in line to buy!

Nice addition ...I turned it so no one twists their necks Note how some specs changed...PERHAPS to alleviate the problem of the smaller M3A1 backplate beating out the back of the receivers?

This is the drawing for the M3 springs dated 1943, there may have been revisions in later years. Some of the data is hard to read. it LOOKs like 67-coils, length 13.5" - .75"

Welcome to the boards! Your Thompson appears to have an early milled ejector (only the back half is visible). Not exactly correct on a later mfg. gun, but its worth a few bucks to someone with a commercial Savage.

American Thunder 3rd edition (AT3) Third and last edition. Get it or regret it...

I have never seen a US Property mark on an M1 only on later M1A1s, presumably after Lend Lease, because LL guns remained US property, even though most were never returned. We taxpayers buy them back as parts kits. Early M1A1s were not US marked either, two examples are 302xxx and 311xxx. The X's are because I don't have the complete serial numbers in front of me. The most important are the first three digits anyway. Most M1A1s were US marked; there are just not enough surviving guns available to get a specific serial number. Note: AOC US property marks are read from the front, Savage from the back.

If it works, you should start a business! Unmodified Keystone pins are marginally better than originals. I have broken several of them.

FFLs can ship to other FFLs

The M3A1 stock was designed as a tool to remove the trigger guard, and the barrel. A magazine loader, and one of the struts is threaded for a cleaning brush. In basic training, we were shown how an M16 could be disassembled with a live round. (for routine field maintenance)

IMHO don't cut or modify anything Removing the ejector housing is no big deal, it's part of routine maintenance. I remove mine regularly when cleaning (have to because of the large backplate). If you don't have a GI manual for the GG you should get one...you just remove the trigger guard and the housing drops right off. The manual shows how to use end of the buttstock as a tool to remove and install the trigger guard. EZ you will probably find a lot of grime/carbon and dirt inside the housing. When I was younger, I could easily remove the trigger guard with my hand, but I use the buttstock now.

AT3 pages 173, 186-187 The reason the number was eliminated from the frames, was often the incorrect serial number was being recorded on mis-matched guns. a Technical Bulletin ORD 141 was issued to address the problem.

An article on the Thompson trademarks... https://smallarmsreview.com/auto-ordnance-trademarks/