Frank I.

BYOI = Be Your Own Inspector M3 M3A1 Submachine Gun from the US Army's PS magazine July 1971 issue

BYOI = Be Your Own Inspector M3 M3A1 Submachine Gun from the US Army's PS magazine July 1971 issue

Love to get a look at that wrapped up Thompson! and serial number

AT3 is an upgrade over earlier editions...new info, hardback covers, and in addition more vintage B&W, many COLOR pictures.

I use soft white "crayons" sold at art supply stores; they won't scratch the finish. Apply to the markings, then wipe off the excess with oil. They are easily removed with Hoppes #9.

I do it for pictures...

There are a lot of aftermarket 30-rd carbine magazines that are junk. It is a shame that scammers are marking magazines and selling as originals. I agree, the shiny UU 30-rd carbine mags work 99.9% in my M2, I think they were made in Taiwan or Korea. They are more reliable than my original GI 30-round mags, and less expensive. I bought some at Knob Creek a few years ago for $9.00 each. I bought some similar-looking aftermarket Sten magazines from Keep Shooting.com (shiny black finish), which are far more reliable than originals. But the Sten magazines have not been available for some time. It isn't too often that aftermarket magazines are more reliable than originals.

Try calling them; perhaps they never updated the list.

If you contact SAR they MIGHT have copies left... smallarmsreview.com https://chipotlepublishing.com/store/

I would ESTIMATE that it was made during the last months of production, due to the 800-thousand serial number. I have never documented any M1A1s with a higher s/n than the 800k-range. The last Thompsons were delivered in February 1944. (Thompson production had be extended because of problems welding M3 SMG receivers together) Also, I would GUESS that it is an Auto-Ordnance Bridgeport mfg, not Savage, because of the late s/n range with the added A1 suffix and the serial number that is somewhat misaligned, both are indications of A-O mfg. American Thunder III, M1 chapter page 156

OLD topic, but again, may help someone... Attached is a picture of the cocking handle spring tool... John, with your skill level you couldn't make this simple tool? ?

Old thread but, I think that is the early style M3 ejector / cocking handle that resulted in problems. The replacement can be identified by the ejector having a 90-degree bend at the back to keep the cocking lever from moving too far forward. The lever is also updated on those housings.

During 2021 I thought it would be a good idea to have an issue of SAR magazine featuring (mostly) Thompson-related articles for the weapon's 100th anniversary. Articles were submitted by many well-known individuals from the Thompson community, some articles had to be published in subsequent issues. I recently re-read the magazine and thought it would be of interest to those who missed it. The magazine initially didn't want to do it, but relented, and it turned out to be their best-selling issue ever. Most, if not all, of the articles can be found on SAR's website for free.

The rear larger M3 backplate from Numrich is already installed on the guide rods. Remove the bolt assembly from the receiver, retract the bolt slightly (hold it back, it is under spring pressure), remove the spring clip at the front, remove the bolt/spring assembly and slide it on the new rod/backplate. reinstall the front plate and clip.

That's the front plate, he needs the back plate.

I recently purchased one of those from Numrich. That is the larger M3 plate that you need to prevent damage to the back of the receiver. The one I received was brand new in the cosmoline. The dimensions given in the ad are correct for the large plate. Guide Rod Assembly, Attached Plate, New (Measures 1-5/8" x 1-1/4") The reason they went to the narrower plate on the M3A1 was so you could remove the bolt/rods/spring assembly without removing the ejector housing. It turned out to be a bad idea. The rear of many grease gun receivers have been bulged out and even cracked when fitted with that narrow plate

I remember Lee telling that story!! RIP my friend!

I watched this show on the Roku channel that had some UD42 footage they called it a Marlin submachine gun...and a pile of Stens

I realize this is an OLD thread, but this info MAY help solve someone's similar problem When switching from FA to semi be sure to retract the action bar (cocking handle) 1/4" to disengage the auto connector lever from the action bar. (as per the instruction manual) Failure to do so will result in the bending of the sheet metal L-shaped "leg" part of the selector, that is designed to lift the auto-connector lever off of the action bar. Once the leg is bent, the auto lever will remain engaged with the action bar, causing the weapon to fire in full-auto mode in the semi-auto position.

Yes, those "bright" bolts have been an ongoing item of controversy, as I "recall" the metal specified for the bolts was N2 steel, which "again as I recall" was an old designation. Doug Richardson was trying to find out the answer. He told me he was going to have a bolt analyzed by a metallurgist, but I don't think he ever did. I think they wanted to cut the bolt to analyze it, and he didn't want to sacrifice an original bolt.

That's the one! Thanks for posting the pictures, good to hear from you.

A few shows ago a fellow had a 1928A1 that had a what appeared to be a "nickel" silver-colored bolt. Upon closer examination, it appeared as though it was originally a blued replacement bolt that someone had removed (most) of the bluing. My question is; does anyone know if the replacement blued bolts (1928 or M1 style) the same as the original "nickel" bolts but blued? I know there is some controversy about the bolts "in the white-aka nickel" bolts.

A few shows ago a fellow had a 1928A1 that had a what appeared to be a "nickel" silver-colored bolt. Upon closer examination, it appeared as though it was originally a blued replacement bolt that someone had removed (most) of the bluing. My question is; does anyone know if the replacement blued bolts (1928 or M1 style) the same as the original "nickel" bolts but blued? I know there is some controversy about the bolts "in the white-aka nickel" bolts.

I had one a few years ago, pretty rare item, sold it when I sold my GL transferable M3A1, along with all the other spare parts I had. I recently bough a preMay M3A1, I should have kept those parts, the prices for GG parts has really skyrocketed!

From American Thunder III page 180...