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Everything posted by Frank I.
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I have never seen a US Property mark on an M1 only on later M1A1s, presumably after Lend Lease, because LL guns remained US property, even though most were never returned. We taxpayers buy them back as parts kits. Early M1A1s were not US marked either, two examples are 302xxx and 311xxx. The X's are because I don't have the complete serial numbers in front of me. The most important are the first three digits anyway. Most M1A1s were US marked; there are just not enough surviving guns available to get a specific serial number. Note: AOC US property marks are read from the front, Savage from the back.
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New to me Reising, new to me firing pins
Frank I. replied to Cort Tompkins's topic in Reising Message Board
If it works, you should start a business! Unmodified Keystone pins are marginally better than originals. I have broken several of them. -
Lawsuit Over Mailing Handguns Through USPS
Frank I. replied to Robert Henley's topic in Class III Forum
FFLs can ship to other FFLs -
New to the M3A1 Grease Gun and Need Advice
Frank I. replied to tricky9914's topic in The U.S. M3-M3A1 Message Board
The M3A1 stock was designed as a tool to remove the trigger guard, and the barrel. A magazine loader, and one of the struts is threaded for a cleaning brush. In basic training, we were shown how an M16 could be disassembled with a live round. (for routine field maintenance) -
New to the M3A1 Grease Gun and Need Advice
Frank I. replied to tricky9914's topic in The U.S. M3-M3A1 Message Board
IMHO don't cut or modify anything Removing the ejector housing is no big deal, it's part of routine maintenance. I remove mine regularly when cleaning (have to because of the large backplate). If you don't have a GI manual for the GG you should get one...you just remove the trigger guard and the housing drops right off. The manual shows how to use end of the buttstock as a tool to remove and install the trigger guard. EZ you will probably find a lot of grime/carbon and dirt inside the housing. When I was younger, I could easily remove the trigger guard with my hand, but I use the buttstock now. -
M1A1 lower not marked with a serial #
Frank I. replied to p51's topic in Thompson Submachine Gun Message Board
AT3 pages 173, 186-187 The reason the number was eliminated from the frames, was often the incorrect serial number was being recorded on mis-matched guns. a Technical Bulletin ORD 141 was issued to address the problem. -
Oregon Military Museum, Clackamas, Oregon
Frank I. replied to ordnance's topic in Firearm Museum Forum
Love to get a look at that wrapped up Thompson! and serial number -
Date for a M1A1 reciever by serial #?
Frank I. replied to p51's topic in Thompson Submachine Gun Message Board
AT3 is an upgrade over earlier editions...new info, hardback covers, and in addition more vintage B&W, many COLOR pictures. -
Putting white paint in markings?
Frank I. replied to p51's topic in Thompson Submachine Gun Message Board
I use soft white "crayons" sold at art supply stores; they won't scratch the finish. Apply to the markings, then wipe off the excess with oil. They are easily removed with Hoppes #9. -
Putting white paint in markings?
Frank I. replied to p51's topic in Thompson Submachine Gun Message Board
I do it for pictures... -
30 Round M1 Carbine Magazines
Frank I. replied to stingray656667's topic in The M1/M2 Carbine Message Board
There are a lot of aftermarket 30-rd carbine magazines that are junk. It is a shame that scammers are marking magazines and selling as originals. I agree, the shiny UU 30-rd carbine mags work 99.9% in my M2, I think they were made in Taiwan or Korea. They are more reliable than my original GI 30-round mags, and less expensive. I bought some at Knob Creek a few years ago for $9.00 each. I bought some similar-looking aftermarket Sten magazines from Keep Shooting.com (shiny black finish), which are far more reliable than originals. But the Sten magazines have not been available for some time. It isn't too often that aftermarket magazines are more reliable than originals. -
The SAR magazine Thompson issue
Frank I. replied to Frank I.'s topic in Thompson Submachine Gun Message Board
Try calling them; perhaps they never updated the list. -
The SAR magazine Thompson issue
Frank I. replied to Frank I.'s topic in Thompson Submachine Gun Message Board
If you contact SAR they MIGHT have copies left... smallarmsreview.com https://chipotlepublishing.com/store/ -
Date for a M1A1 reciever by serial #?
Frank I. replied to p51's topic in Thompson Submachine Gun Message Board
I would ESTIMATE that it was made during the last months of production, due to the 800-thousand serial number. I have never documented any M1A1s with a higher s/n than the 800k-range. The last Thompsons were delivered in February 1944. (Thompson production had be extended because of problems welding M3 SMG receivers together) Also, I would GUESS that it is an Auto-Ordnance Bridgeport mfg, not Savage, because of the late s/n range with the added A1 suffix and the serial number that is somewhat misaligned, both are indications of A-O mfg. American Thunder III, M1 chapter page 156 -
Installing cocking handle spring
Frank I. replied to Got Uzi's topic in The U.S. M3-M3A1 Message Board
OLD topic, but again, may help someone... Attached is a picture of the cocking handle spring tool... John, with your skill level you couldn't make this simple tool? ? -
Grease gun ejector with a hole
Frank I. replied to Annihilator's topic in The U.S. M3-M3A1 Message Board
Old thread but, I think that is the early style M3 ejector / cocking handle that resulted in problems. The replacement can be identified by the ejector having a 90-degree bend at the back to keep the cocking lever from moving too far forward. The lever is also updated on those housings. -
During 2021 I thought it would be a good idea to have an issue of SAR magazine featuring (mostly) Thompson-related articles for the weapon's 100th anniversary. Articles were submitted by many well-known individuals from the Thompson community, some articles had to be published in subsequent issues. I recently re-read the magazine and thought it would be of interest to those who missed it. The magazine initially didn't want to do it, but relented, and it turned out to be their best-selling issue ever. Most, if not all, of the articles can be found on SAR's website for free.
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New to the M3A1 Grease Gun and Need Advice
Frank I. replied to tricky9914's topic in The U.S. M3-M3A1 Message Board
The rear larger M3 backplate from Numrich is already installed on the guide rods. Remove the bolt assembly from the receiver, retract the bolt slightly (hold it back, it is under spring pressure), remove the spring clip at the front, remove the bolt/spring assembly and slide it on the new rod/backplate. reinstall the front plate and clip. -
New to the M3A1 Grease Gun and Need Advice
Frank I. replied to tricky9914's topic in The U.S. M3-M3A1 Message Board
That's the front plate, he needs the back plate. -
New to the M3A1 Grease Gun and Need Advice
Frank I. replied to tricky9914's topic in The U.S. M3-M3A1 Message Board
I recently purchased one of those from Numrich. That is the larger M3 plate that you need to prevent damage to the back of the receiver. The one I received was brand new in the cosmoline. The dimensions given in the ad are correct for the large plate. Guide Rod Assembly, Attached Plate, New (Measures 1-5/8" x 1-1/4") The reason they went to the narrower plate on the M3A1 was so you could remove the bolt/rods/spring assembly without removing the ejector housing. It turned out to be a bad idea. The rear of many grease gun receivers have been bulged out and even cracked when fitted with that narrow plate
