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Frank I.

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Everything posted by Frank I.

  1. American Thunder 3rd edition (AT3) Third and last edition. Get it or regret it...
  2. I have never seen a US Property mark on an M1 only on later M1A1s, presumably after Lend Lease, because LL guns remained US property, even though most were never returned. We taxpayers buy them back as parts kits. Early M1A1s were not US marked either, two examples are 302xxx and 311xxx. The X's are because I don't have the complete serial numbers in front of me. The most important are the first three digits anyway. Most M1A1s were US marked; there are just not enough surviving guns available to get a specific serial number. Note: AOC US property marks are read from the front, Savage from the back.
  3. If it works, you should start a business! Unmodified Keystone pins are marginally better than originals. I have broken several of them.
  4. The M3A1 stock was designed as a tool to remove the trigger guard, and the barrel. A magazine loader, and one of the struts is threaded for a cleaning brush. In basic training, we were shown how an M16 could be disassembled with a live round. (for routine field maintenance)
  5. IMHO don't cut or modify anything Removing the ejector housing is no big deal, it's part of routine maintenance. I remove mine regularly when cleaning (have to because of the large backplate). If you don't have a GI manual for the GG you should get one...you just remove the trigger guard and the housing drops right off. The manual shows how to use end of the buttstock as a tool to remove and install the trigger guard. EZ you will probably find a lot of grime/carbon and dirt inside the housing. When I was younger, I could easily remove the trigger guard with my hand, but I use the buttstock now.
  6. AT3 pages 173, 186-187 The reason the number was eliminated from the frames, was often the incorrect serial number was being recorded on mis-matched guns. a Technical Bulletin ORD 141 was issued to address the problem.
  7. An article on the Thompson trademarks... https://smallarmsreview.com/auto-ordnance-trademarks/
  8. BYOI = Be Your Own Inspector M3 M3A1 Submachine Gun from the US Army's PS magazine July 1971 issue
  9. BYOI = Be Your Own Inspector M3 M3A1 Submachine Gun from the US Army's PS magazine July 1971 issue
  10. Love to get a look at that wrapped up Thompson! and serial number
  11. AT3 is an upgrade over earlier editions...new info, hardback covers, and in addition more vintage B&W, many COLOR pictures.
  12. I use soft white "crayons" sold at art supply stores; they won't scratch the finish. Apply to the markings, then wipe off the excess with oil. They are easily removed with Hoppes #9.
  13. There are a lot of aftermarket 30-rd carbine magazines that are junk. It is a shame that scammers are marking magazines and selling as originals. I agree, the shiny UU 30-rd carbine mags work 99.9% in my M2, I think they were made in Taiwan or Korea. They are more reliable than my original GI 30-round mags, and less expensive. I bought some at Knob Creek a few years ago for $9.00 each. I bought some similar-looking aftermarket Sten magazines from Keep Shooting.com (shiny black finish), which are far more reliable than originals. But the Sten magazines have not been available for some time. It isn't too often that aftermarket magazines are more reliable than originals.
  14. Try calling them; perhaps they never updated the list.
  15. If you contact SAR they MIGHT have copies left... smallarmsreview.com https://chipotlepublishing.com/store/
  16. I would ESTIMATE that it was made during the last months of production, due to the 800-thousand serial number. I have never documented any M1A1s with a higher s/n than the 800k-range. The last Thompsons were delivered in February 1944. (Thompson production had be extended because of problems welding M3 SMG receivers together) Also, I would GUESS that it is an Auto-Ordnance Bridgeport mfg, not Savage, because of the late s/n range with the added A1 suffix and the serial number that is somewhat misaligned, both are indications of A-O mfg. American Thunder III, M1 chapter page 156
  17. OLD topic, but again, may help someone... Attached is a picture of the cocking handle spring tool... John, with your skill level you couldn't make this simple tool? ?
  18. Old thread but, I think that is the early style M3 ejector / cocking handle that resulted in problems. The replacement can be identified by the ejector having a 90-degree bend at the back to keep the cocking lever from moving too far forward. The lever is also updated on those housings.
  19. During 2021 I thought it would be a good idea to have an issue of SAR magazine featuring (mostly) Thompson-related articles for the weapon's 100th anniversary. Articles were submitted by many well-known individuals from the Thompson community, some articles had to be published in subsequent issues. I recently re-read the magazine and thought it would be of interest to those who missed it. The magazine initially didn't want to do it, but relented, and it turned out to be their best-selling issue ever. Most, if not all, of the articles can be found on SAR's website for free.
  20. The rear larger M3 backplate from Numrich is already installed on the guide rods. Remove the bolt assembly from the receiver, retract the bolt slightly (hold it back, it is under spring pressure), remove the spring clip at the front, remove the bolt/spring assembly and slide it on the new rod/backplate. reinstall the front plate and clip.
  21. I recently purchased one of those from Numrich. That is the larger M3 plate that you need to prevent damage to the back of the receiver. The one I received was brand new in the cosmoline. The dimensions given in the ad are correct for the large plate. Guide Rod Assembly, Attached Plate, New (Measures 1-5/8" x 1-1/4") The reason they went to the narrower plate on the M3A1 was so you could remove the bolt/rods/spring assembly without removing the ejector housing. It turned out to be a bad idea. The rear of many grease gun receivers have been bulged out and even cracked when fitted with that narrow plate
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