Connor
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Posts posted by Connor
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5 hours ago, K Squared said:
Make that 3 wrenches.
I'd like one as well.
And, what did you do to protect the barrel from scratches?
K Squared
Right on. I’ll shoot you a DM.
personally, I didn’t use anything to protect the barrel on my project. The I.D of this wrench is .995. You could use some painters tape which is about 5 mils if you have a barrel that is closer to .985. My barrel ended up being .995 on the money so I didn’t use tape and I didn’t end up with any concerning witness marks.
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7 hours ago, Babyface Nelson said:
I too would be interested in purchasing.
Thanks for your interest as well. Just sent you a DM
-Connor
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Thank you. I’m glad you like it. You could always scale it down to a 2x3 and keep it in your wallet lol.
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Found this image of an old 1928 Thompson add. I decided to blow it up onto a poster to see how it would turn out.
Overall I’m pretty happy! The 20x30 posters at Walgreens were the same scale as the original image. I was also happy to find it didn’t get too blurry after scaling. It be cool to print this on some old tarnished parchment paper if that is possible.
Now I have a cool new garage poster and conversation starter. After all, the cost of the Thompson set the stage for the GCA tax stamp cost. If I frame it, my wife said I could even hang it in the house some where too which isn’t a bad deal.
Just wanted to share this idea. The original image is attached if anyone else is interested in making their own.
The poster cost was $26 from Walgreens.
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Hey @Steve45just sent you a DM regarding the wrenches. I’ll have a few available for purchase by the end of next week.
That is interesting about Apex’s response. I know for a fact that I have a smooth bodied M1A1 barrel in my 1927 A-1 receiver. I haven’t tried a 1928 square finned barrel in the 1927 A-1 receiver though. Edit, I just found this on the royal tiger imports website regarding their 1928 finned barrels: “These will also thread into M1A1 Thompsons and function, however an M1A1 front sight does not thread on to this barrel (M1A1 sight pressed & pinned instead). “so it seems all Thompson barrels thread into the 1927, 1928 or M1A1 receivers and the differences arise in the muzzle (threaded vs unthreaded). 1927 and M1A1 are pressed and pinned muzzles whereas the 1928 barrels have a threaded muzzle.
I had a pressed and pinned cutts comp on my 1927A-1 barrel though so Kahr must make cutts comps that are threaded and some that are pressed and pinned.
Regarding your 14” permanently attached cutts comp. I took my cutts comp off the barrel prior to sliding the wrench on. There might be a chance that I could get the wrench over the cutts comp without removing though. I’ll try that in the morning.
Connor
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Also to your previous question.
here are some links for the shorter barrels.
apex has non finned
https://www.apexgunparts.com/thompson-m1-m1a1-barrel-10inch-new.html
royal tiger imports has finned and non finned
https://royaltigerimports.com/shop/1928a1-thompson-45-acp-10-5-finned-smg-barrel-parkerized/
I also make barrel wrenches for removing and installing new barrels if you are interested in one. I’m currently making one for @Jimbola23as he stated above.
I have a link to that here if interested. -
Correction. You only need to send the atf 2 copy’s of FP cards. Not two sets. My bad.
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Hope your finger prints went alright. It’s usually pretty easy here in Reno.
If you E-filed you only need to send in 2 sets of fingerprint cards + your atf cover letter. The cover letter is one of the attachments in the email from the atf after you complete your transaction on the eforms site.
Back when paper forms were common, two copies of your submitted form-1 were sent to the atf with 2 sets of FP cards and the cover letter, and one copy of your submitted form-1 was sent to your law enforcement agency you choose. So there were always 3 forms but only two sets of FP cards needed. Maybe that’s were the 3 came from you are thinking about.
it’s important to note that you only need to send your law enforcement agency the law enforcement copy of your submitted form-1. To my knowledge this does not have to be the approved form-1. The law enforcement copy does not require your photo or fingerprints.
Hope this helps.
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Hey @Jimbola23,
the front sight and comp come off with one roll pin. They should come off as one piece when you have the cutts comp. You’ll need a set of punches.
you will also need to match drill a hole on your new barrel through the existing hole on the front sight once the new barrel is installed in order to reinstall the roll pin.
Thanks for your interest in the wrench. I’ll send you a DM about purchasing. -
First post.
I recently inherited my grandfathers unfired 16” Civilian semi auto Thompson. Naturally, I wanted to SBR it, so I E-filed a form 1 and got approved in 4 weeks. I then ordered a 10.5” barrel, front sight post, and horizontal hand guard from Apex. I found this forum after doing some research on removing the original Thompson barrels. Although I found some good information on removing old barrels, it didn’t sound like there were too many makers of the jigs and barrel vises. I also read in another post that one of the main guys that made the barrel jigs died. I watched a few of his YouTube videos and decided I would make my own barrel vise due to the availability and cost of existing vises, most in the range of $250.
I am posting this for educational purposes in case there are folks out there interested in building their own barrel “wrench”. I am also happy to build one of these wrenches for forum members for $150.
The wrench worked great for removing the 16” finned barrel that was on my Thompson. It was almost too easy. Once it’s broke free, I had to RR lock the wrench a few times but was eventually able to spin it off by hand.
One design element I incorporated was maximum barrel surface area contact. The tubing section that makes contact with the ~1.00” barrel section is as long as it can be without hitting the post on the hand guard mount.
the construction was with common materials including .995” inner diameter X .062 wall steel tube, 1/4” steel plate. The design was completed in solidworks, laser cut at a local fab shop, and welded at home. I used the remainder of the steel tube to extend the handle.
The premise of the design is to use clamping force to remove the barrel or to tighten a new one. I cut a slit down the 4” section of tube with an angle grinder so there is roughly an .080 gap that can be clamped together. My old and new barrel are roughly .995 in OD but this should also work with barrels that have smaller diameters As the clamping force will force the tube to conform to the barrel.
Please check out these photos and let me know if you have questions on building something similar or if you would like to purchase one of mine.
Thanks for looking.
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New Thompson Barrel Removal/install tool
in Thompson Semi-Auto Discussion Forum (West Hurley & Kahr Semis)
Posted
As far as I know there is no torque spec for Thompsons. There might have been from the factory…
Found this quote from reconbob in another barrel install /removal thread here on the forum - “
The square thread of the Thompson can't be torqued very far once the shoulder of the barrel hits the receiver. Once the shoulder hits, maybe you can turn the barrel 1/8" and then it just won't go much farther.
Unlike a V thread where once the shoulder hits you can torque the barrel maybe 1/4" or more.
So when you barrel a Thompson you can turn it on as tight as you can before your barrel wrench starts to slip.
Bob”