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Dylan

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  1. I was rather suprised myself at how much once fired brass was going for... I was even more suprised when I saw new brass going for ~$19 per 100. I guess I'm kinda spoiled by all the free range pickups I grab each time I go shoot. Just last weekend I picked up a little over 300 cases, the only investment I had to make was the time to bend down and pick them up. :woot:
  2. From what I'm seeing just poking around a few online vendors, once fired 45acp brass is going for about $65-$75 per 1000.
  3. I finally managed to strip the threads out on my rear sight screws so nowadays I just remove the rear sight and use the notch in the cocking knob to aim. On my semi Thompson at least, putting the tip of the front sight in the middle of the cocking knob notch gets me pretty much dead nuts on at 100 yards.
  4. The one up top must be reversed... either that or the good Captain had a one-off Thompson that ejected to the left.
  5. Sorry, just couldn't help but nitpick a little... Amendment 27 enacted May 7, 1992 Amendment 26 enacted July 1, 1971 Amendment 25 enacted February 23, 1967 Amendment 24 enacted January 23, 1964 Amendment 23 enacted March 29, 1961
  6. From about 7/8 the way down the Thompson FAQ above.... I understand the semi automatic Thompsons won't accept original G.I. stick magazines. How do I modify the magazine catch to accept G.I. 20 and 30 round sticks? The magazine catch must be modified by lowering the lip that engages the magazine .100" while maintaining the original contours and shape. This is commonly achieved with a Dremel tool or files. After you have removed the safety, move the pivot plate so the ends of the pins are flush with the side of the trigger frame. Pivot the magazine catch out far enough to clear the magazine engaging protrusion from the hole in the trigger guard. Push on the end of the pivot pin part of the mag catch on the far side while pulling the catch out of the hole. Once the magazine engaging protrusion has cleared the side of the trigger guard, carefully allow the catch to rotate and unwind the spring. Remove the catch from the trigger housing . (Assemble in reverse.) When reshaping the magazine catch, you must duplicate all the contours and angles when lowering the engaging surface. Removing .100" will allow use of unmodified GI magazines. Be careful not to remove too much metal. You may have to refit and test several times to acheive the optimal shape. ==============================================
  7. QUOTE (PhilOhio @ Jul 19 2007, 12:57 PM) QUOTE (Deathompson @ Jul 19 2007, 12:36 PM) ...Even this one looks as if is peened on the back corners of the foward deep cut. Is this common?... Definitely should not be that way. I don't know how common it is. I haven't seen it. Looks like the bolt is too soft or the extractor is too stiff. Do any impact points on the bolt show such peening? About how many rounds has this bolt fed? I would be interesting to do a Rockwell test on the area close to that extractor groove. The bolt has been like that since new, looks to be intentionally manufactured that way to me. I have over 5500 rounds through this Thompson.
  8. Houston, you have a problem.... this is what it's supposed to look like: http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/SMLE1918/Tommy/bolt.jpg
  9. I had read reference to this modification when I first purchased my Thompson but couldn't find any detailed information on how to go about performing the mod. I know of PK's reputation as a Thompson smith and highly recommend following any advice he gives. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/hail.gif That being said, I have fired over 5000 rounds through my Thompson since performing this modification and thus far can see no damage or ill effects from the modified frame rails. As with everything, your milage may vary, objects in mirror are closer than they appear, not intended for human consuption, etc. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/unsure.gif
  10. I used a Dremel and a hand file for mine. Make sure you put some tape on the outside of the receiver to protect the finish in case the Dremel catches http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/banghead.gif
  11. This is how I went about modifying my semiauto for toolless frame removal. Basically, the problem is the frame latch gets caught on the sear in the last tenth of an inch or so neccessitating a screwdriver or some other tool to depress the frame latch. Sooo... remove a small portion of the end of the frame rails like thus: http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/SMLE1918/Tommy/mod.jpg http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/SMLE1918/Tommy/mod002.jpg Now all you have to do is depress the frame latch and pull the frame back while pulling the trigger to release the firing pin, no more tools needed.
  12. I'd be interested, how much do you want for a pair?
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