pvmain

put me down for one C drum.

Screw a 10mm tap into the broken shell and rhen tap the whole work out from the muzzle. It works vert well.

20,000 rounds of brass cased lead bullet reloads thru my Colt :21A over the last 20 years (using a '28 bolt and extractor from Sarco) with no extractor problems ar any others, for that matter. I suspect that steel cased ammo is the culprit in most cases. Spend a little more and use brass.

I've been shooting my '21 for 19 years and with only the lightest film of gun oil on the internals . I've had 100% reliability and no oil spatter at all. You are using way too much lubricant!

Used 200 rds in a test of my "group buy" replacement drum last weekend. Used my '21A with '28 bolt set-up. Fired both SA and FA. Functioned perfectly- which was not the case with my original "group buy" drum.

Had a chance to give my Kahr "L" drun a real test last week-ebd in my '21, ser up with '28 parts. I'm happy to report 200 rounds fired with 0ut the slightest malfunction, in both SA and FA modes. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/smile.gif

Remove the compensator, take it to a machinist and have him extend the internal threads all the way through to the muzzle. Screw it back on until its flush with the end if the barrel. Lock it with Loctite and you have the effect of a two inch shorter barrel.

M1A1 Parts have been sold.

Back in the 70's I unscrewed the compensator on my '27, took it to a machinist I knew, had him pick up the original threads with his lathe and thread the whiole internal length of the compensator. Screw the compensator on until the muzzle is flush with it . Use Loctite to secure it. Comp will be ineffective, but on S.A., who cares! It looks just as nice as if you you actually shortened the barrel/

I have all parts for M1A1 except receiver, barrel and rear sight. Savage manufacture, blue- black oxide finish. Lower is complete with all internals. Bolt is complete with extractor, recoil spring and guide as well as the buffer. Stock has repaired crack (two transverse screws ar wrist) and top mounted swivel. Forearm has side mounted swivel. One Seymour XXX rd. mag with typical British plugged sight holes. All for $300.00- OBO pvmain2004@yahoo.com

You obviously have the sear engaged in the notch in the bolt. I had a very similar problem with my '21 that was caused by 15 years of crud build up in the recess in the lower receiver. I also couldn't release the bolt and as a result could not remove the lower receiver. I was perplexed for a couple of hours but finally I removed the safety and with a small punch reached in thru the safety hole and depressed the rear of the sear. This released the bolt and allowed disassembly. If you had left the pivot plate in place, you could have used the same solution but you have more complications with all those other parts tightly pressed against the bolt. Good luck!!

Got my group buy "L" drum last friday. Rotor dragged heavily on the cartridge spiral, there were several tight spots in the spiral that would stop cartridge movement and the cartridges would arrive at the top opening in a "nose down" attitude that prevented them from exiting the drum. Called Kahr, and following their instructions, sent it back to them for replacement. I have a serial numbered Colt drum for comparison and unfortunately, at least functionally, there is no comparison. If I get a reliable Kahr, I' ll retire the Colt to display duty only.

My heretofore absolutely reliable '21 began jamming and eventually stopped with the bolt in the retracted position and could not be released. I was sure that something in the lower receiver had broken, but disassembly with the sear holding the bolt in the rear position is impossible. After some protracted thought, removed the safety and used a small punch to reach in and depress the sear allowing the bolt to go forward and allow separation of the upper and lower receivers. Disassembly of the lower found the recess completely full of gunk. Cleaming returned the '21 to its usual reliability. (I have always carefully cleaned the gun after each firing, but resisted disassembling the lower due to not wanting to chance scaring the lower in the rermoval of the spring plate. )

Bought a new 1927 in '75 or '76. When the bolt ran forward the extractor would ram right throuh the rim. I discovered that there wasn't clearance machined into the reciever to allow the extractor to snap over the rim. My fix was to file or grind several thousandths off the top of the extractor, allowing it to snap over the cartridge rim. Problem with this '28 may be something similar, possibly due to re-wat welding . I have '21A and have never had this type of problem with it. Hope this helps.

I have a '21 (all original parts) that we have fired at least 10K rounds through with absolutely no part failures, although perhaps 60% of these rounds were fired with a Savage '28 bolt set up in the gun. The thing is marvelously robust and reliable.