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Cross posted. I am looking to sell a few Egyptian Port Said SMG parts kits (Two are Israeli Capture marked!), a Swedish M/45 D Select-fire parts kit, a few mixed Swedish/Egyptian SMG parts, and an original Swedish M/45C bayonet shroud for the M94-14 Mauser carbine bayonet. All parts shipped via USPS Priority Mail at true cost (estimated $8 for small packages, $18 for large packages), extra insurance at the request of the buyer. Payment via USPS MO, personal check, or PayPal Friends/Family with no note for fastest shipping. Any questions just ask, happy to take additional pictures. Generally speaking, what you see is what you get. SOLD: Israeli Capture Egyptian Port Said Kit #1 - PHOTOS KIT #1 An Egyptian Port Said kit that is an Israeli capture, marked on the magazine well with Hebrew letter Tsadik in a circle. This is referred to as the "Tzahal". IDF capture during Six-Day War (1967) or Yom Kippur War (1973). A lot of Egyptian proof marks, barrel is in great shape with excellent bore. Very nice, clean kit that will certainly be an easy build. $1,850 shipped. SOLD: Israeli Capture Egyptian Port Said Kit #2 - PHOTOS KIT #2 An Egyptian Port Said kit that is an Israeli capture, marked on the barrel shroud with Hebrew letter Tsadik in a circle. This is referred to as the "Tzahal". IDF capture during Six-Day War (1967) or Yom Kippur War (1973). Multiple Egyptian proof marks, barrel is in great shape with clean bore. Includes complete rear sight with partial receiver remnants still attached. A clean majority kit that will certainly be an easy build. $1,500 $1,200 $1,000 shipped. SPF: Egyptian Port Said Partial Parts Kit - PHOTOS KIT #3 An Egyptian Port Said partial kit. Multiple Egyptian proof marks. $750 shipped. SOLD: Swedish M/45 D Select-Fire Kit - PHOTOS SWEDE M/45 D KIT A Swedish K M/45D Carl Gustafs parts kit. Updated version of Swedish K with select-fire fcg. All Swedish parts with Swedish 'Crown' proofmarks. Updated rear endcap with spring buffer and hook. Remnants of old receiver warped, will not be issue for use with new tube and sideplates (available from 9watchman on Gunbroker). Swedish barrel is in great shape with excellent bore. Great kit that will certainly be an excellent semi auto or post sample build. $1,850 $1,500 $1,300 shipped. Swedish M45 stripped lower.- Mixed Parts Photos Swedish K M/45 SMG stripped lower. Original, early Swedish lower in correct parkerized finish. $300 $200 $175. SOLD: Swedish M/45C Shroud: M/45C Shroud Very rare barrel shroud for the Swedish M/45C. This shroud features a bayonet lug inspired from the M94-14 carbine to accept the M94-14 bayonet. These guns were issued to ceremonial/parade troops, as well as Swedish troops during the UN-intervention during the 1960s Congo Crisis. This shroud is in excellent, near unissued condition. $1,000 $900 shipped. I am also open to selling everything listed in one lot. Please reach out via a PM for questions, photos, etc. Thank you.

Sharing my hammer fired PPSH design here. Been meaning to post this for over a year but it’s taking this long to work out some kinks. Finally, I am ready to post about the lessons learned. Picked up a polish parts kit from Robert RTG in 22’ as well as a 9mm barrel from apex. The kit was freaking nice, probably unissued. submitted my form 1 immediately, approval took about 30 days back in spring of 23’. I got started working on the trigger mechanism while I was waiting for the form 1 to be approved. Many guys do the striker fired design, nothing wrong with that, I was just determined to make a hammer fired mechanism work. I read that an sks trigger group will work but never saw a good write up on it. So I bought an “incomplete” sks trigger group for $40 on apex and made it work with the ppsh trigger housing. I didn’t make any mods to the sks trigger at first, wanted to see what would work /fail first so I pinned the sks trigger housing to the ppsh trigger housing. I then had to machine the lower receiver of the ppsh to make room for the sks hammer and disconnect or to protrude through. I welded an extension to the disconnector so that it engaged with the ppsh bolt, it just needed to be .200 longer and .060 to one side, talk about precise welding. This disconnector is important bc it prevents someone from pulling the trigger while the bolt was out of battery. I welded in a simple blocking bar to the lower, and notched the ppsh trigger housing accordingly and wala I had a semi auto lower. Now for the fun part: The bolt modifications. I still removed .900” from the back end of the bolt just like a sticker fire design but didn’t reuse the cut off material. I removed the fixed firing pin, turned my own firing pin housing on a lathe that fit the same hole (thru hole was for an ar style firing pin), relocated the recoil spring to the side of the bolt by machining a pocket with a ball end mill that the recoil spring drops into, machined out the base of the bolt with a ramp that would cock the hammer after being fired, started with an AR firing pin but ended up having to modify it slightly, made a firing pin extension out of tool steel for the hammer to strike, and lastly welded in a blocking bar to the upper receiver as well as a respective slot on the bolt for it to ride. Many guys who run 9mm in ppsh mags have nosedive issues as well. The .220” difference is cartridge length is the culprit. I was no exception to those flaws. I have modified my drums with .187” steel spacers that I welded in place but haven’t gotten around to modifying my stick mags yet. The spacers worked good after I dremelled the each spacer into an acceptable feed ramp. No issues welding the receiver back together, it’s straight enough, I see flaws but most guys don’t. I recommend using an aluminum or brass backing plate to minimize cleanup on the inside of the reciever. It’s hard to clean up welds on the inside of the receiver with a grinder, a dremel works but it’s time consuming. fitting the barrel was simple enough. I cut the 1/2-28 threads off the front. I wanted an “original” length barrel to utilize the primitive muzzle brake. If you leave the threads, the barrel sticks past the front of the brake. Didn’t worry too much about recrowning, just lightly sanded the muzzle. You must match drill the barrel to the trunnion. I set the barrel to my desired depth in the trunnion. You could bottom the shoulder of the barrel out on the trunnion, which is probably what you would do with a tok barrel, but I placed my barrel closer to the magazine due to the .220 difference in cartridge length of the 9mm. The barrel was soft enough that a new TiN coated 1/2 drill bit worked great, go slow. finished off the build with armor black cerakote and she’s looking good. All in: $650 parts kit (now they are $500 with a 9mm barrel on Bowmanarms.com) threaded barrel from Atlantic: $150 sks trigger group from apex: $40 3 drums($80ea): $240 3 stick mags ($50 ea): $150 Tax stamp to the man: $200 Total: $1430 Honestly this was a big project in my book, I was happy to take it on but I easily have a few hundred hours invested. Nothing cooler than shooting my ppsh though next to some guys at the range that just dumped over a grand into their PCC. The ppsh draws some cool attention for sure. over 1000 rounds of 147gr AAC through it at this point with many hick ups. Most of my failure to feed issues improved though after I modified the drum feed lips. Running much better now. Happy to answer any questions about this build, just had to get this off this off my chest. cheers,

Hello MGB Members, I am looking for a mid-section for my Ithaca M3. There is maybe 2.5" or less of section I need to begin my build. Send me a message if you happen to have anything that would fit the bill. Thanks! -J.

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