Proper Cleaning Of A 1927a1

[dgrasshopper]

Hi,

I would like to know if there is a best way to clean my 1927A1 semi autmatic Thompson Auto Ordinance carbine.

I have been using the following : Birchwood Casey #77 Muzzle Magic Clener ,Montana Extreme Copper Killer , Hoppes #9 bechrest ,Breakfree CLP and Kroil oil on my Mosin Nagant, 7 & 8 mm Mausers , M1 Garand and M1 carbines.

 

I went to the range last wekend and fired off around 100 45 ACP rounds with the Thompson.

I used a 45 cal Hoppe bore snake on the Thompson but was not to happy with the result after running an Otis breach patch and seeing what the bore snake missed.

 

I have previously field stripped the Thompson the month before and used Hoppes #9 on an original Thompson cleaning rod (brass brushes and patches)through the compensator end.

I have a DVD that was made from an old USA ordinance training film that shows an armory technician running hot soapy water with a patch from the muzzle.

 

I know there are many favorite cleaning techniques.

I just would like some guidance to do the best job.

Thank you Dave

[mnshooter]

Though I've certainly asked enough questions that have been discussed previously, a search of "firearms cleaning" gave 6.75 million hits. Every manufacturer of cleaning supplies has their own site with lots of instructions, as do many of the sites devoted to almost any type of firearm. The hot water cleaning is still as useful as ever, but only if you are using corrosive primed ammo, and then must be immediately followed with a rust preventive of some sort. If you are still in doubt, you can always call Brownell's toll free number and ask for their technical department. They offer excellent free advice.

[dgrasshopper]

Though I've certainly asked enough questions that have been discussed previously, a search of "firearms cleaning" gave 6.75 million hits. Every manufacturer of cleaning supplies has their own site with lots of instructions, as do many of the sites devoted to almost any type of firearm. The hot water cleaning is still as useful as ever, but only if you are using corrosive primed ammo, and then must be immediately followed with a rust preventive of some sort. If you are still in doubt, you can always call Brownell's toll free number and ask for their technical department. They offer excellent free advice.

 

Thank you for the advice.

Iam new to the website forum and have very basic PC skills .

I did not know that this was a previously discussed topic and only wish to learn the correct way.

[mnshooter]

I did not mean to imply the cleaning subject was exhausted on this forum; only that there are so many other sites with lots of cleaning information. The benchrest rifle shooters probably are the most exacting as to cleaning processes, but they'll change barrels if their groups enlarge even a small fraction of an inch. A pistol caliber Thompson barrel just isn't that exacting for accuracy. If you are using all the products you listed each time you clean, you are likely overdoing it. An important thing with any barrel you care about is to use a plastic coated or stainless rod -never brass or aluminium. Any kind of bore guide only helps, as does cleaning from the breech whenever possible. Never use stainless steel brushes on a barrel. Never mix Shooters Choice with Sweets 7.62, or their equivalents; you can etch the bore, etc. Lots and lots of information out there. Hoppes or equivalent, patches, brass brushes, patches, Break Free or equivalent, Sheath or Clenzoil on the outside; you're done. Or follow any of the countless other opinions out there. They probably know more than me.

[dgrasshopper]

I did not mean to imply the cleaning subject was exhausted on this forum; only that there are so many other sites with lots of cleaning information. The benchrest rifle shooters probably are the most exacting as to cleaning processes, but they'll change barrels if their groups enlarge even a small fraction of an inch. A pistol caliber Thompson barrel just isn't that exacting for accuracy. If you are using all the products you listed each time you clean, you are likely overdoing it. An important thing with any barrel you care about is to use a plastic coated or stainless rod -never brass or aluminium. Any kind of bore guide only helps, as does cleaning from the breech whenever possible. Never use stainless steel brushes on a barrel. Never mix Shooters Choice with Sweets 7.62, or their equivalents; you can etch the bore, etc. Lots and lots of information out there. Hoppes or equivalent, patches, brass brushes, patches, Break Free or equivalent, Sheath or Clenzoil on the outside; you're done. Or follow any of the countless other opinions out there. They probably know more than me.

 

I know it is a vast topic and many favorite methods.

I was confused as to when one should completely field strip a Thompson as opposed to running a 45 cal bore snake through the breach or an Otis brass brush and patch

I guess there is no general method only what works for the person.

Thank you for your help .

[LIONHART]

If you want to get it super clean,

 

 

I use Gunscrubber with the wood off. I also use an air compressor for the nooks and crannies, long cotton tails, and lube with SLIP2000. As far as the bore. For me, Boresnakes are good enough, unless REALLY dirty.

[jim c 351]

For the bore I start with hoppes #9 and brass brush. Run in about 10-15 times.

Then I use a 20 gage shotgun brush in the comp and rotate. If fouling remains inside comp, I scrape with a length of brass round stock.

Then I remove the trigger group and scrub any residue from the chamber end of the receiver. When all residue has been scrubed, then I use patches and paper towels to clean up the bore, comp, and receiver. I coat the bolt channel of the receiver with a light coat of oil.

I scrub the powder fowling on bolt assembly with a tooth brush and Hoppes #9. Wipe dry and coat with oil.

I blast the trigger group with WD-40, then blow it out with a air hose. Light coat of oil on the flat part of trigger group.

When everything is ship shape I reassemble and coat the entire exterior with RIG grease on a RIG rag.

In my 28 TSMG I shoot only reloads with Rainier or Berry plated bullets. This reduces fouling and rifling wear.

Jim C

[dgrasshopper]

For the bore I start with hoppes #9 and brass brush. Run in about 10-15 times.

Then I use a 20 gage shotgun brush in the comp and rotate. If fouling remains inside comp, I scrape with a length of brass round stock.

Then I remove the trigger group and scrub any residue from the chamber end of the receiver. When all residue has been scrubed, then I use patches and paper towels to clean up the bore, comp, and receiver. I coat the bolt channel of the receiver with a light coat of oil.

I scrub the powder fowling on bolt assembly with a tooth brush and Hoppes #9. Wipe dry and coat with oil.

I blast the trigger group with WD-40, then blow it out with a air hose. Light coat of oil on the flat part of trigger group.

When everything is ship shape I reassemble and coat the entire exterior with RIG grease on a RIG rag.

In my 28 TSMG I shoot only reloads with Rainier or Berry plated bullets. This reduces fouling and rifling wear.

Jim C

 

Thank you all for the great advice,

Regards Dave