Kahr Closed-Bolt Thompson EZ Pull Spring Kit

[dokkerdam]

I wanted to start a new thread on questions I have about EZ Pull spring kits for the Kahr Thompson firearms because other discussions on this website are getting dated and many of the links and actors are no longer around.

 

I very recently bought a Kahr Thompson TA5 'Pistol' (after wanting one for almost thirty years). When I went to clear the weapon at the gun store I could only get the bolt back about halfway and figured I'd lock it at home. At home I was finally able to lock the bolt back with two hands and with the receiver against my chest. Ouch! I remembered a passage about how you always see the hoodlums with Thompsons in the movies wearing gloves.

 

Looking on-line I have read that the close-bolt blow-back operation requires very heavy recoil springs. Then I read that there are kits out there that replace 3 springs and a hammer and make the firearm much more manageable. So here are my questions:

 

Is the guy named Deerslayer still supplying these kits for $30 or do I have to pay $80 to Tommygunner and possibly add my name to a bunch of complaints (and they don't take credit cards or paypal). Please help me Deerslayer.

 

Are the spring kits a composite of some springs from other applications? can I just buy the two or three springs and make my own kit? if so, what springs do I need? Or can the Springs in the gun be cut down slightly? Will I get into trouble nipping off a bit here and there? And what about the buffer plate?

 

Finally, my Kahr Thompson has an aluminum receiver. I think at least one thread somewhere said don't do it with aluminum.

 

For those who say build up some muscles I say this - how do you lock the bolt back on a Thompson Pistol with no buttstock to prop on your shoulder while your left hand has to hold up the weapon and lift the "third hand" to activate the bolt lock? Let's see you do it. And imagine the day when that bolt lets go and the cocking knob snags something on it's way forward or even worse the bolt face might catch a finger where it shouldn't be.

 

still ten-fingered dokkerdam

[ppgcowboy]

Do a search of deerslayer and sent him a message.

[OCM]

www.thompsonstocks.com

[Merry Ploughboy]

I wanted to start a new thread on questions I have about EZ Pull spring kits for the Kahr Thompson firearms because other discussions on this website are getting dated and many of the links and actors are no longer around.

 

I very recently bought a Kahr Thompson TA5 'Pistol' (after wanting one for almost thirty years). When I went to clear the weapon at the gun store I could only get the bolt back about halfway and figured I'd lock it at home. At home I was finally able to lock the bolt back with two hands and with the receiver against my chest. Ouch! I remembered a passage about how you always see the hoodlums with Thompsons in the movies wearing gloves.

 

Looking on-line I have read that the close-bolt blow-back operation requires very heavy recoil springs. Then I read that there are kits out there that replace 3 springs and a hammer and make the firearm much more manageable. So here are my questions:

 

Is the guy named Deerslayer still supplying these kits for $30 or do I have to pay $80 to Tommygunner and possibly add my name to a bunch of complaints (and they don't take credit cards or paypal). Please help me Deerslayer.

 

Are the spring kits a composite of some springs from other applications? can I just buy the two or three springs and make my own kit? if so, what springs do I need? Or can the Springs in the gun be cut down slightly? Will I get into trouble nipping off a bit here and there? And what about the buffer plate?

 

Finally, my Kahr Thompson has an aluminum receiver. I think at least one thread somewhere said don't do it with aluminum.

 

For those who say build up some muscles I say this - how do you lock the bolt back on a Thompson Pistol with no buttstock to prop on your shoulder while your left hand has to hold up the weapon and lift the "third hand" to activate the bolt lock? Let's see you do it. And imagine the day when that bolt lets go and the cocking knob snags something on it's way forward or even worse the bolt face might catch a finger where it shouldn't be.

 

still ten-fingered dokkerdam

 

 

As well as a 27A1 Thompson, I have a semi auto Uzi. Both firearms have similar high effort cocking due to the modification of an open bolt machine gun to closed bolt semi auto. Over time with use, the effort does ease up somewhat, but not a lot. Instead of installing low force springs in either gun, I use a cocking aid. To wit, an AR-15 A2 grip with the bottom opening of the grip slid over the cocking knob of the 27A1 Thompson (turned sideways to fit on the semi auto Uzi knob). An A2 grip may not fit over an older "cheese grater" style cocking knob.

 

To simulate a TA5 pistol, I took the stock off the 27A1 Thompson. While seated, hold the front of the receiver and barrel between your knees. Assuming you're right handed, using the A2 grip cocking aid cock the Thompson with your left hand, and push up the BHO lever or the third hand from the underside with any finger of your right hand (I normally use the index finger). At no time does any finger of either hand go in front of the bolt face. If you're removing an empty drum, you must use the third hand (or a similar tool, e.g., a screw driver) to reach the BHO lever, and the drum makes holding the gun between your knees more awkward, but it's not impossible.

 

Of course I typically have the stock on and while standing, squeeze the stock between my right arm and thorax instead of grasping the front section of the receiver and barrel between my knees. Otherwise the process is the same.

 

Best of luck, and enjoy your TA5 Thompson.

 

MHO, YMMV, etc.

[dokkerdam]

thanks,

I've noticed a very slight improvement already (either from leaving the bolt locked back for a week or being mentally prepared/stronger when cocking).

A new bigger problem just arose. the bolt won't stay locked back. a quick break-down showed damage and rounding out of the clean edge on the bottom of the bolt, and similar rounding on the bolt hold-open sear. I'm surprised that the bolt material would be that soft to get rounded out (and I don't know how the pawl would contact it during use other that trying to cock the gun and push up on the third hand and failing to get a good purchase a few times). i'm going to call Kahr tomorrow. at best I expect to have to ship the gun to them (big hassle as it's a 'pistol' and now face shipping costs.)

 

I thought the aluminum receiver might cause me problems but the bolt hold-open issue has nothing to do with the aluminum.

 

thanks for the ideas.

 

dokkerdam