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Reising Hygiene


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Now that I have been exercising my new to me Reising on several occasions behind my house and at my kids pond I need to clean my favorite gun.   

When do I need to clean her up?   After a certain round count or when inside the chamber is dirty with soot,  just what are ya-all doing?

What cleaning solvent do you use?     what oil do you use etc etc.      And is there any certain area's internally I need to be sure and keep oiled etc.

I have put at least 500 rnds thru her with   200 gn plated with unique powder.

BTW   I'm having a addiction and want to shoot her more and more,   I have about 15K primers in my hord so I should be good for a little while and after that I wil be forced to pay the current cost for primers   :( :( 

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There are no tricks.

Field strip it. Clean the barrel from the breech end with the solvent of your choice; personally I'm partial to Bore-Tech Eliminator but there are others.  Use a shotgun bore mop to clean the receiver.  Brush as much crud as you can out of the comp, you'll never get it clean. Disassemble and clean the bolt inside and out.  Wipe down action bar, guide rod and spring

Lube the bolt with the grease of your choice, I like Lubriplate.  Make sure you grease the top rear of the bolt that locks into the receiver and the notch for the action bar.  Grease the top rails of the action bar and grease and oil the spring and guide rod

Reassemble.  Test.


Edited by StrangeRanger
brain fade
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Thanks StrangeRanger

You covered some points that I was wondering about, as example to use grease on the bolt.   I was giving it a lite coat of oil but I have some grease similar to Lubriplate but it has moly mixed it so I will use that.   I did remove the firing pin when I cleaned the bolt and cleaned the inside where the pin is,   and I did make the modification to the firing pin.   That was simple to achieve and it did not take much to remove the metal on the blunt end to change how much the firing pin pokes out the other end.    Shotgun bore mop is a good way to do the receiver.


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  • 2 weeks later...

Pop off the stock and spray it down.

Good job modifying the pin. That is one of the best tidbits to keeping that firing pin from breaking. I have a Ti pin waiting in case it does break.. but so far so good with the one that came with my Reising. *knock* *knock*.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Run a bore snake down the barrel a few times. Spray some oil of choice in there and run one more time. I use Remington spray oil in the bolt and trigger areas. Don't be shy, spray the hell out of it. Wipe it off and you're good to go. I do the same on my Thompson's. 

Or, if you just have way too much time on your hands. Strip it down and throw the bolt and trigger assembly in an ultra sonic and clean it. Then, spray the hell out of it. Wipe it off and you're good to go. 

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One More note:

I am convinced that a great number of the firing pin failures are due to a combination of three factors:

  1. The weak firing pin spring doesn't retract the pin quickly enough.  A Wolff spring alleviates this
  2. The tapered design of the stock pin allows it get stuck in the hole in the bolt face if it moves too far forward.  I've had the exact same issue with a Broomhandle Mauser.  The Keystone Ti pin does not have a tapered tip, yet another reason to use one
  3. The buildup of crud in the inside of the bolt makes the pin sticking in the forward position even more likely.  Cleaning the inside of the bolt every few hundred rounds eliminates the problem


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Good conclusion, I can surely see what you are referring to with each factor you Mention.

I have a complete wolf spring kit installed.

I have a Titanium Keystone pin installed.

Each time I clean the innards I do clean the cavity the pin goes in.

I clean the gun every 3 to 5 hundred rounds.

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