Lawman9328 Posted June 17 Report Share Posted June 17 (edited) Hi all..... I recently purchased a West Hurley TSMG. Upon my initial inspection I believed the actuator to be Remington made ("R" stamp, see photo) but I was confused by a circular marking that appeared on the top (see second photo and my previous post "What do I have here ?") Upon closer inspection of my actuator, I'm really confused at what I actually have and am once again seeking the forum's help. I'd like to know if anyone has seen anything like what I have before. A couple of forum members who have more experience owning and collecting Thompsons have also seen it and they are confused as well. 1. I put a light into the hole on the actuator where the recoil spring goes and directly below where the circular marking is on top, there appears to be some sort of machining that has been done. I can't tell if it's a rivet or some just a hole (photo #3). 2. On the side grooves where the circular milling marks always appear on G.I actuators there is another strange marking (see #4). I can't tell if it's another pin or if it's just some sort of machine mark (I can't see anything inside the hole for the recoil spring, and there is no corresponding mark of any type on the opposite side of the actuator). The edges of that mark are obviously deeper that the milling marks. What's more curious is that the milling marks go over the unknown mark. The milling on the unknown mark are aligned perfectly with the milling marks on the actuator. So it would seem to have been there when milling was done. 3. It appears as if the top flat plate and the larger milled piece are not a single piece of metal. It has the "appearance" of being an add on much like the additional weighted section was added on to the 1921 bolts. If you look at pic 4 again, the vertical milling marks on the side of the upper flat plate do not continue down onto the larger lower milled section. Additionally there appears to be a seam between the upper flat portion and the lower portion (see pics 5, 6, 7) So....do I have some sort of ultra-rare prototype of how they were going to try and slow down the rate of fire for the Navy version !!!????? Unfortunately.......I think not...... 4. Here's the really confusing part.......the lower milled section and the "ball" on top all appear to be one single piece of milled metal. However, it looks as if the upper flat plate was added on separately (based on difference in color as well as apparent cuts around the "ball") (see pics 7, 8, 9). So....is there anyone out there that can help with this mystery ?? With the amount of GI parts out there floating around, it seems strange that someone would go to this much work on an actuator. Perhaps it was their attempt to make a one piece 1928 actuator look more like an early converted 1921 actuator ? (pic 8 is also a comparison of my actuator to an original 1921) Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Gene Edited June 17 by Lawman9328 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD. Posted June 17 Report Share Posted June 17 Two quick questions: What is the shape between the cocking ears on the actuator from your West Hurley? Pear or U shape? Post a picture please. What is the shape between the cocking ears of your "original 1921" actuator? This 1921 actuator looks more like a cut down 1928 actuator to me in the one picture. Very interesting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawman9328 Posted June 17 Author Report Share Posted June 17 1 hour ago, TD. said: Two quick questions: What is the shape between the cocking ears on the actuator from your West Hurley? Pear or U shape? Post a picture please. What is the shape between the cocking ears of your "original 1921" actuator? This 1921 actuator looks more like a cut down 1928 actuator to me in the one picture. Very interesting! TD, The cocking ears on this actuator are "U" shaped. Requested photos are attached. Now that I think about it you may be correct that the pictured actuator I claimed was an "original 1921" is in fact a cut down 1928. The forum member I was visiting had both types and we compared my actuator with both of them. However I think the photo may have been take using the cut down 1928. Gene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandman1957 Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 TD, the other cut down actuator is Remington 1928. Gene brought it by and we looked at it as best we could. I think the top was brazed on and it has a similar round circle on the back end that looks like how the Colts were done, except that is the only one, not two of them. I wonder if someone else has one like this. The best photo show the inside of the spring guide hole. That is very different from any other one piece actuator I have ever seen. If someone else has one like this please post photos. Gene plans to attend the TATA show and shoot in August and plans to bring it unless it is resolved before than. Best, Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bug Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 Could the original Rem 1928 actuator have been milled down in an attempt to convert a semi to FA? When that failed, the actuator was salvaged by adding the milled off metal in the form of a flat plate. My other thought was that the top of the original actuator was somehow severely damaged or pitted and again, salvaged. Very strange, indeed. Bob D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inertord Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 My .02 on the modified Remington Actuator. Some West Hurleys were manufactured with the receiver interior area milled too deep. The Remington Actuator may have had the plate added to adjust for improper interior receiver dimensions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandman1957 Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 That is very good input. If the "plate" was added for "height" from the top of the actuator then he may have had to make the actuator higher or the bottom of the knob thinner to allow for clearance? Perhaps we can measure the two to see if that is what was done. The barrelled receiver is still in the NFA time out Box, so it will be awhile before we can see the fit of that receiver. Has anyone done this type of "repair" on an actuator that can give additional insight on this? Best, Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD. Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 Gene/Steve, I have never seen an actuator like this in a West Hurley Thompson. Please bring it to Tracie's. inerord, I believe you are spot-on! One of many problems with the West Hurley 1928 Thompson guns is the receiver cavity was milled to an improper depth. If the receiver cavity is too deep (common problem), the semi-automatic function will not work properly all the time. More importantly, during full auto firing, the gun may continue to fire a couple of more rounds after you let off the trigger; a definite safety concern. I remember earlier a forum member posted he attached two very thin metal strips along side the actuator slot at the bottom of the receiver to correct this issue. It appears the prior owner of this West Hurley used an actuator to make the same repair. If so, quite ingenious; same for the metal strips. I know PK. has a fix for this issue but do not know how he does it. Dan Block also has a fix that seems to work quite well. When Gene takes possession, he can run the WH with this modified actuator, and a stock USGI actuator and provide us the results. All good stuff!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpbcps Posted June 18 Report Share Posted June 18 What is the market price for a WW2 1928A1 Actuator? Cheers Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryo Posted June 19 Report Share Posted June 19 For mine the fix was to make a cut of off a stainless steel sheet metal that matched my receiver innards. Then sand it down till it was the right height (depth). Tedious but worked great. I still have to epoxy it down but it works fine. I only used SS metal because that^was what I had at the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawman9328 Posted June 19 Author Report Share Posted June 19 (edited) Well......here's a comparison of what I have versus a WW2 era Stevens milled actuator. Mine is on the left, the Stevens is on the right. There is a noticeable difference in the shape of the cut at the rear of the upper plate (photo 1). The difference in the thickness of the two upper plates is also noticeable (photos 2 & 3), however the overall height of the actuators is practically the same (but I know tolerances of thousandths of an inch can make a huge difference !) Additionally...the fourth picture is also something interesting. I had a question about the small round marking that was in the middle of milled section of the actuator because it just seemed so strange. Like mine, the one advertised was made by Remington based on another photo that showed the "R" stamp. What caught my eye was the same strange round mark in the milled section (pic 5). It is in a different location (upper right corner) but it appears to be the same size and it also had the milling done over it. Edited June 19 by Lawman9328 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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