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MP-40 Resting Bar Removal?


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The very fragile spot for breakage is directly behind the retaining pin hole. I have seen and handled dozens of bars with the backside of the hole broken away. 
Be very aware that the retaining pin ends are flared and the flare has an OD wider than the hole in the bracket AND  wider than the ID of the hole in the bar. Forcing the flared end of the pin through the hole in the bar risks cracking or breaking the thin web of  material at the backside of the hole. 
My practice for keeping the hole intact is to drive one end of the pin into the bracket but only to the point where the flare on the opposite side is exposed being careful not to drive it so the flare goes into the bar. The bracket is thick enough to do this. Very carefully remove that exposed flare edge so the OD of the end of the pin is as close as possible to the OD OF the pin. Protect the recessed hole in the pin so it remains at a useable depth.

Lube the area around the  freshly ground pin end and let it soak for a while. Anchor the bracket solidly. Use a drift that fits into the recess in the end of the pin. Slowly and with tapping the a drift only as hard as necessary to move the pin, carefully drive the pin out from the ground end side. 

Now the tricky part. The bar can be tight on both axes, forward and backward as well as up and down. It can be a bit loose in one direction and tight in the other, etc. Grip the bar close to the pin end and carefully see if it is loose and in what direction.  The bar has a bit of room in it's fixture to move back and forth but the only direction in which the bar can be removed is up since the other end is captured. 
If the bar is phenolic, it is fragile so the next step must be done carefully.  Once you can tell how tightly it is held in the bracket and it feels loose enough, you can choose to carefully and very slowly wiggle it up and out of the bracket.
If it is tight, then find and use a very thin piece of metal such as a razor blade, etc and insert it under the rear end of the bar below the pin hole. Be very careful here not to mar the bluing or chip the phenolic. Putting some grease in the spot where you are inserting the lever helps with entry under the phenolic and protecting the metal and spraying some lube into the seams of the bar and the bracket helps too.  
Once the lever is inserted, gently try to lift the bar. If it moves and a gap opens, use a thicker metal lever. Increase the lever thickness as the bar end moves up. Go slowly and carefully until you can move it by gripping with your fingers. Keep an eye on the other end to insure that it is not binding with potential for breaking.

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