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How well does the Thompson 1928 Supress?


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So how well does a Thompson suppress and what supressors/ setups are recommended? I saw Doug Richardsons design years ago,has anyone built/ bought one? How well did it work.Is it the type of thing even worthwhile .Out here in the country its about not disturbing neighbors. I would think omitting the forward grip ,/ porting  the barrel after 5" or so and in the Hk SD style with a nice insulator on the supressor.I only wish they had red dot mounts that are only temporary. It almost seems Thompson says "leave me Alone ,I was created perfect as I am and don't try to change me". And is there difference between 21'&28' styles with a blish lock and the M1 style?

Edited by Countryboy77
Wasn't done and fat fingers on phone submitted
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  • Countryboy77 changed the title to How well does the Thompson 1928 Supress?

Well, the .45ACP is naturally subsonic, so all you need is some type of mount for whatever can you buy. To me, most cans work about as well as any other, but I'd get a dedicated .45 can (not multi-caliber). 

That being said, TSMG is not really a good host for add-ons, and I'd be wiling to bet it's more work than it's worth. 

I just bought a M3 and that is easy to work with. 

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Been a long time since I looked through Richardson Books, but I remember him mentioning staggered holes drilled with an Indexing Machine into the Barrel to direct gasses into the Suppressor, but the Barrel could be changed with a Quick Disconnect Barrel System.

Richardson sold the Tap and Dies in the size of the Thompson's Grip mount bolts. The short Horizontal Grip mount Bolt trimmed down to lock onto a notched area on the Barrel thread. The Grip Mount would be Counter Sunk so that Horizontal Bolt sat flush.

This would allow the user to switch from Standard Barrel, or Blank Fire Barrel, or a Suppressor Barrel. Hope the photo helps to see the system. Restoring back to original would be putting an unmodified Grip Mount to hide the threaded hole.

 

 

20190902_114412.jpg

Edited by jojeep
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