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Do you ever get gas in your face when shooting your Thompson? I'm getting a little from my M1A1.


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I just noticed the last time I shot my reloads that I'm getting gassed a little when firing.

I never had that problem before.  

It wasn't a lot, but it was slightly annoying.

If you get any gas, do you notice it with factory ammo?   Or with reloads, is it quick or slow powder?

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since gun is a blowback action, bullet stillin barrel when bolt moving back, so some gas blows back, a lot of factors with ammo, reloads, hot reloads, subsonic etc, try different ammo if its bothering you and where shooting glasses, for safety, just sayn

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I also run my guns wet to prevent wear.

If you shoot one of mine you'll taste the CLP as it sprays out from the buffer hole.

Look at various videos... I'd hypothesize that the M1 and M1A1 get more gas pushed back as they are designed without oil pads?

But then I've never been bothered much by oil in my teeth......and I'm always grinning when I dump a mag or a drum!

 

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20 minutes ago, john said:

I also run my guns wet to prevent wear.

If you shoot one of mine you'll taste the CLP as it sprays out from the buffer hole.

Look at various videos... I'd hypothesize that the M1 and M1A1 get more gas pushed back as they are designed without oil pads?

But then I've never been bothered much by oil in my teeth......and I'm always grinning when I dump a mag or a drum!

 


I run mine wet too.  I just cannot shoot a $30,000 smg dry.    I definitely get some oil on my shooting glasses from the buffer hole.

I am a big fan of using Mobil One synthetic motor oil for MG lube.  It's not affected by heat.

Edited by Doug Quaid
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39 minutes ago, john said:

... I'd hypothesize that the M1 and M1A1 get more gas pushed back as they are designed without oil pads?

It's not the oil pads on a '28 that cut down on the spray.  That buffer disc that most of us have replaced with a urethane one seals off the hole much better than the metal/elastomer/metal sandwich that the M1 and M1A1 use

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Yes, me too.......make my own out of high duroneter urethane. They do seal better but still leak gas and oil around the back end of the lube pad stirrup.

I also have used mobil 1 as well as a homemade CLP recipe I found in American Gunsmith magazine.

The stuff works really well and you can make 5 gallons of it for maybe 50-60 bucks.

I use a pail with a basket in it for all my cleaning.....makes that job easy.

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To reduce oil spray, before shooting I stretch a small o-ring over the protruding pilot rod at the rear of the upper.  There's still some oil from the upper/lower interface at the rear though, so I minimize that by way of a small plastic "apron" that is retained by the pilot rod  o-ring.

MHO, YMMV, etc.

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I hardly ever use the sights, preferring to fire from the hip. With a little practice, bullets will strike where you're looking. Oil blowback/spray is going somewhere, but not into my face. 

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I, too, like to run my Thompson wet, but have never actually analyzed where the oil is coming from. I had assumed it was coming from slot for  the charging handle. That's just another reason why one should ALWAYS wear eye protection. Oh, the sacrifices we make.

Edit: Forgot to sign, Karl, 68coupe

Edited by 68coupe
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If I had an m1 I would get a cheap rubber washer at the hardware store and put it behind the steel sandwhich.Would seal everything comming back at you and not thick enough to effect how it goes together/ works.that way if it huge the recoil guide it's kinda like an umbrella. 

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9 minutes ago, Stampcollector said:

Wow! I oil my 28 but not so wet it slings oil all over the place. Maybe use a little less oil. That's just what I do, so just my opinion! 

They are talking about tye M1 model.Buffer and guide rod assembly are set up different.The M1 doesn't seal quite the same way.At least the 1928 buffer seals the edge around the guide rod ass./receiver So you get a full seal. The M1 buffer/ guide rod doesn't quite completely close the rear,And if you don't want to taste oil don't use thin stuff.Use some gear oil or Mobil 1 somthing a little thicker won't spray .

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On 1/19/2025 at 1:48 AM, Countryboy77 said:

They are talking about tye M1 model.Buffer and guide rod assembly are set up different.The M1 doesn't seal quite the same way.At least the 1928 buffer seals the edge around the guide rod ass./receiver So you get a full seal. The M1 buffer/ guide rod doesn't quite completely close the rear,And if you don't want to taste oil don't use thin stuff.Use some gear oil or Mobil 1 somthing a little thicker won't spray .

Countryboy77, I was incorrect on my comment for sure! I need to pay more attention. 🙃  

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No worries Stampcollector I didn't think anything out of line.Some admit they put extra oil to protect their investment and its not my place to tell anyone how to treat their stuff but there are tips and tricks to help and a lot of these guys are great as this place is a wealth of knowledge.Anyway I cannot speak for others ,but I found nothing wrong with your comment.My grandfather greased this gun for years and I only seen him oil a little hole in the bolt with thin oil and the trigger group got touches of oil,but he liked Grease and used cosmoline and lsa.I never tasted oil from a 1928,but an m1 I shot I did.i thought it was over oiled and it may be but the M1 rear design is different and I can see it spraying back everytime the bolt goes rearward its like a pressurized syringe once the bolt is rearward the sear and I could totally see that.Maybe try an o ring,can't hurt or a rubber washer.

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