EagleToes Posted January 24 Report Share Posted January 24 (edited) It’s a thing of beauty and I just picked it up from my dealer today. This is my first Thompson and I’m very impressed with how it feels and the engineering that went into it. This is the model T1B-14 and I absolutely love the looks of the shorter barrel compared to the standard model and I think this will scratch the itch instead of me having to SBR it. There is only one thing wrong that I have noticed (I have not yet disassembled the lower). The most forward pin that retains the position of the firing pin is broken (firing pin, retracting pin). I have not shot it yet, but thought I should clean and inspect it before heading to the range. Upon noticing it didn’t look right, I was able to tap out the pieces. Aside from filing a warranty claim with Kahr and waiting a while for a replacement, is there a pin available that I can buy and install myself? I’m to edit the post to point out all issues I’ve seen with the rifle (I still have not fired it). 1) The foregrip screw was rusted and frozen in place on the foregrip plate (I wish I would have gotten pics of this). I had to soak it in oil and apply lots of pressure with the screw driver to get it to budge. I marred up the screw, so I ordered a new one from Kahr. 2) As mentioned above, the retracting pin was broken. Kahr warranty is mailing me a new one. 3) The sear spring was installed upside down. I was able to properly install it. Edited January 30 by EagleToes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EagleToes Posted January 24 Author Report Share Posted January 24 I have contacted Kahr for a new pin and they want me to send the entire rifle back to them for testing and replacement of the pin (they said it needs to be fitted to the rifle). Seems like a pain, but maybe that’s the better route to go. I’m open to suggestions before shipping it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motorcar Posted January 24 Report Share Posted January 24 Uhhhh.... If it were me, I would contact Dan Block and just send him the bolt. He will take good care of you. Kahr didn't understand what pin you were talking about. The firing pin needs to be fitted for clearance to the gun because they are stamped oversize where it catches the sear. If the firing pin is fine have Dan do it. That retaining pin is not a big deal. Kahr had mine for a warranty 20+ years ago and it came back damaged in shipping due to their bad packaging. I sent it to PK for re-blue and repair. I would hope the shipping department has improved in two decades but it left a bad taste in my mouth. Just as a side note, I love my Diamond K semi auto. They can be made to run and with some modification are real beauties. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EagleToes Posted January 24 Author Report Share Posted January 24 I just got an email back from Kahr warranty and they are sending the pin. Is there a right or wrong way to install it? Looking at the pin on the A-O website, it appears that one in is flared or shaped differently than the other. The first pic is from the A-O website and the second is from Midwestgunworks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deerslayer Posted January 25 Report Share Posted January 25 Just tap it gently in until it's just past flush. You will need a small punch. Try to stick the bolt in a vice while you do this. Test fit each direction first. The little splines may have a better grab in the hole one direction or the other. You want to put it in the direction that is the tightest. Not the easiest. You dont want it coming out in the middle of a recoil cycle while the bolt is back. That causes an incredible jam. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter kohler Posted January 27 Report Share Posted January 27 is that the pin they started using to hold the extractor from popping out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EagleToes Posted January 29 Author Report Share Posted January 29 (edited) I tore the frame down today and did the mag catch modification, which took a while. The sear spring was in upside down and reassembly of the frame was a royal pain (although I now have a process that works relatively well - putting in the pivot plate a little at a time and adding parts as it is inserted). I still haven’t received the retracting pin yet to replace the broken one. Quick question for anyone that knows, can I replace the pin with the firing pin in the bolt, or should I remove the retaining pins and install the retracting pin with the firing pin removed? Edited January 30 by EagleToes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EagleToes Posted January 31 Author Report Share Posted January 31 (edited) I received the retracting pin today and got it installed with no problem and it passes the function check! Now the Tommy sits on display until I can make it to the range. Edited January 31 by EagleToes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EagleToes Posted January 31 Author Report Share Posted January 31 (edited) Just went to the range and had one malfunction. The unfired cartridge failed to feed and jammed up the gun. I was able to clear it after some struggling and it ran fine after I hit the feed ramp with some rem oil. Aside from the one jam, I did have two or three instances where the firing pin did not reset and I had a dead trigger. Any idea what causes this issue? I was able to just eject the round and keep chugging away. Edited January 31 by EagleToes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deerslayer Posted February 1 Report Share Posted February 1 Did it ever double? (Two bangs with one trigger pull). A firing pin that hasn't been caught by the sear will move forward with the bolt and cause a jam. It looks like your extractor is loose. In the picture it appears like the rim of the case has caught on the extractor (and it's been pulled forward) Next time you take out the bolt see if you can move it back and forth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deerslayer Posted February 1 Report Share Posted February 1 FYI the "pin" that holds the extractor in place is a roll pin variety not the solid one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EagleToes Posted February 1 Author Report Share Posted February 1 (edited) 13 hours ago, deerslayer said: Did it ever double? (Two bangs with one trigger pull). A firing pin that hasn't been caught by the sear will move forward with the bolt and cause a jam. It looks like your extractor is loose. In the picture it appears like the rim of the case has caught on the extractor (and it's been pulled forward) Next time you take out the bolt see if you can move it back and forth. I don’t notice any doubles. The extractor does move forward and back just a tad. Is it broken, or is this normal? Deerslayer, what would you recommend to prevent the slight movement? It is pinned to the bolt. On another note, I just noticed my rear sight was all rusty (a red liquid goo was seaping from the plunger - maybe it’s just grease?). I took it apart and cleaned it up. Here is a pic before cleaning: when the extractor is pushed in all the way, it looks like this: when pushed out, it looks like this: here’s another odd thing. One of the USGI XX mags (Crosby) won’t fit into the magazine slot of the rifle. Is this fixable? Edited February 1 by EagleToes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtrooper Posted February 1 Report Share Posted February 1 To stop the extractor from popping out and jamming the gun I just lightly staked it ... Haven't had a problem since. My weapon did not come with any type of retaining pin. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter kohler Posted February 2 Report Share Posted February 2 i staked both my m1 and 28 i also put usgi extractors in them no problems since i did that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deerslayer Posted February 2 Report Share Posted February 2 A gi extractor won't fit in the kahr bolt without a little adjusting of the slot. Specifically the round hole up front. But once fitted it won't move. You have to Notch the rear for the roll pin. Will it be necessary to change it? That depends if all the jams can be traced to a loose extractor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deerslayer Posted February 2 Report Share Posted February 2 Dead trigger issue. Next time you get a dead trigger, remove the magazine and look from the bottom if the firing pin is forward or back. If back, the bolt may not be quite all the way forward (out of battery) and the disconnector is stopping it from firing. Giving the bolt a little push forward may solve that instance. More rounds through the gun will self polish the parts to likely eliminate this. If you firing pin was forward in the dead trigger instance then the sear didn't grab the firing pin. Fixing that would require a new firing pin that is fit correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EagleToes Posted February 2 Author Report Share Posted February 2 4 hours ago, deerslayer said: Dead trigger issue. Next time you get a dead trigger, remove the magazine and look from the bottom if the firing pin is forward or back. If back, the bolt may not be quite all the way forward (out of battery) and the disconnector is stopping it from firing. Giving the bolt a little push forward may solve that instance. More rounds through the gun will self polish the parts to likely eliminate this. If you firing pin was forward in the dead trigger instance then the sear didn't grab the firing pin. Fixing that would require a new firing pin that is fit correctly. This is very helpful. Thank you! if a GI extractor is installed, does it necessitate the installation of the roll pin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68coupe Posted February 2 Report Share Posted February 2 13 minutes ago, EagleToes said: if a GI extractor is installed, does it necessitate the installation of the roll pin? You won't be able to do so without making a "groove" or slot for the pin in the extractor. This substantially weakens the extractor, and invites failure. It is exactly what caused to the failure of my original extractor. I recommend you stake it as shown in an earlier reply from Oldtrooper. V/R, Karl, 68coupe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deerslayer Posted Monday at 08:57 PM Report Share Posted Monday at 08:57 PM I remember when this issue started. Extractors were coming out of the bolt during normal firing. If it comes out when the bolt is fully recoiled into the receiver it can lock the bolt back and be a challenge to fix. Some guys started staking the extractor as mentioned above with generally good results reported. Kahr started pinning it in place. I think it's interesting that kahr didn't fix the problem by making sure the extractor and the corresponding extractor cut in the bolt arent made to the 1940's standard that still works perfectly well in vintage parts. Instead the new made parts quality is lower and requires a "fix". There was a time when the kahr guns extractor cut in the RECEIVER was changed from a broach cut (deep squared off slot) to a rotary tool cut. At that time putting a gi extractor into that gun would cause problems of not having enough clearance. The kahr extractors on the guns were rounded off to solve the clearance issue. There were a few guns I fixed by removing the barrel and enlarging the cut to allow clearance. Then you could put in a gi extractor. Kahr fairly soon started to make the rotary cut bigger. So that problem went away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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