Live round stuck in my 03A3, SUCCESSFULLY REMOVED!!!

[68coupe]

Folks, I know this isn't a Thompson, or any of the firearms covered in the many categories, but any techniques you may have used should apply.

I fired 24 rounds though my Remington made 03A3 (1943). The 25th round seemingly didn't engage the extractor while feeding, and jammed a live round TIGHT in the chamber. The bolt won't close, and is now removed. I have tried tapping the butt on the ground (mortaring), and using a 1/4" steel rod to drift it out through the muzzle. It now has Kroil soaking in the barrel to see if it frees it up to try drifting it again.

I'm in no hurry, and I certainly don't want to hurt myself, or my beautiful rifle.

Any, and all suggestions are welcome.

Many thanks in advance, Karl, 68coupe

Edited November 24 by 68coupe

[Rekraps]

Sounds to me like you are on the right path. I'd personally take a strong dowl (oak or better) just shy of the diameter of the barrel and tap the round out with a small rubber mallet. If it went in, it will come out.

[68coupe]

The live round has been successfully removed using this tool.

https://watersrifleman.com/tools-lre-bne/

It was worth the price, as it cost less than a gunsmith would have charged me, and now I have a new tool.

The projectile is INSIDE the case after all the drifting attempts. I don't think I had much, if any chance of removing it myself without the tool.

V/R, Karl, 68coupe

[timkel]

I have never tried this myself. But I remember reading about attaching a Zerk type fitting to the bore. Then pumping grease down the barrel until the cartridge pops out.

[jim c 351]

68,

SO-

what was the reason the round stuck?

Jim c

[68coupe]

17 minutes ago, jim c 351 said:

68,

SO-

what was the reason the round stuck?

Jim c

It was the last of 25 of my own reloads fired in the rifle that day. They were reloaded in once fired brass (by me, in my Garand). The case has light, bright rings about 1/4" from the rim, which look like burnished brass. My best guess is improper/incomplete resizing. The bore is still bright, but the chamber is not. It could be soot/gunk in the chamber. I'm going to hone, NOT ream the chamber, then clean and oil it. I'm going to take it to the range and put at least 30rds of my reloads through it, as a test run. I want to take it hunting this year.

Karl

[Rekraps]

8 hours ago, 68coupe said:

It was the last of 25 of my own reloads fired in the rifle that day. They were reloaded in once fired brass (by me, in my Garand). The case has light, bright rings about 1/4" from the rim, which look like burnished brass. My best guess is improper/incomplete resizing. The bore is still bright, but the chamber is not. It could be soot/gunk in the chamber. I'm going to hone, NOT ream the chamber, then clean and oil it. I'm going to take it to the range and put at least 30rds of my reloads through it, as a test run. I want to take it hunting this year.

Karl

Karl you Dodo bird! (just kidding)... it would have been a great HELP if you had told us from the start that the rounds were reloads. Kinda would have sorta led us to a resizing issue! 

Anyway, glad you got it out and the tool is a new one to me! 

[68coupe]

1 hour ago, Rekraps said:

Karl you Dodo bird! (just kidding)... it would have been a great HELP if you had told us from the start that the rounds were reloads. Kinda would have sorta led us to a resizing issue! 

Anyway, glad you got it out and the tool is a new one to me! 

Yeah, I know, the reloads were working soooo well, until that ONE. LOL I've been using my own reloads for some time now. I reload 9mm, 45ACP, 30 Mauser, 32ACP, 30 Carbine, 30-30 & 30-06, and soon 45Colt. This is the first issue I've had. I strictly follow recipes and keep a sober head during all production steps. I hope it was just a one-off, that I missed sizing while in the loading block. Moving forward, I think I'll go from one bin to the next until actually loading primers, charges & projectiles. I use a single stage press, no automation involved. I'm in a constant, parabolic learning curve.

I think the tool is fairly new on the market. There are 3 optional claw tips, Small, Medium (the one I bought), and Large. They also sell broken shell removers, which also use the slide-hammer. I haven't had the need for that one, YET (crossed-fingers, knocking on wood). They sell various kits that include more, or all parts.

Karl

[TSMGguy]

Get yourself a GI .30 broken shell case extractor. It won't help with your current problem because the cartridge case has not separated.  I've needed my extractor just once but nothing else would do. Internal corrosion had developed in a lot of old surplus GI ball ammo. The corrosion was invisible on the outside of the case, which separated just forward of the case rim. I destroyed the rest of the lot by pulling the bullets, dumping the powder, and crushing the cases.