pjr2412
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Posts posted by pjr2412
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You can find information by searching for Bob's post "Phila Ordnance M1 Thompson Full Auto Blank Gun"; just enter the title (without the quotes) in the search box. Bob describes the gun and also posted some photos. The design is such that it cannot be modified to function as a full auto firearm.
Paul
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Received a call this morning as well as the following e-mail:
(ATF.FFL.Alert@usdoj.gov)To:you (Bcc) DetailsThis is an important message from the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives. A Federal firearms licensee in Prince George's County, MD has experienced an attempted burglary of firearms. Please ensure the security of both your inventory and property and report all suspicious persons or activity to your local police department. Additionally, notify ATF at 888-930-9275 if you find any of your firearms missing, lost or stolen. -
Yes, received a call that went to voice-mail as well as e-mail.
Paul
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Without seeing your sight, my guess is either a defective, loose or missing slide catch. On the left side of the slide you will see the slide catch and the screw that retains it to the slide. The catch is a small rectangular flat spring with an imbedded pin that projects against the serrations of the ladder providing the necessary tension to keep the slide in place.
If the screw is loose or the catch (flat spring) has lost tension (or it’s pin is worn or missing), the slide is then free to move along the ladder.
If everything looks complete, a simple test is to move the slide along the ladder. You should hear distinct 'clicks' as the catch pin rides against the ladder serrations.
Previously, I've seen sights that were reblued without disassembly and the heat from the bluing process caused the catch to lose it's tension. The slide would then freely move along the ladder. The solution was a replacement catch. At the time, Gun Parts Corp. had them in stock; not sure if they or anyone else has them available today.
Another possibility is that the ladder serrations are extremely worn but it would take an awful lot of use for that to occur.
Hope this helps.
Paul
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Your Model 1912 is definitely a take-down (no solid frame Model 1912 or Model 12 were made). Winchester did bring out a solid frame shotgun (called the Model 25) around 1950 which basically had the same action). What specifics were you asked about the Model 1912?
Paul
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Yes, it is litle. Photo of it on the side of the slide, with it being held on by a small screw.
Paul
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Yes, it is litle. Photo of it on the side of the slide, with it being held on by a small screw.
Paul
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Not sure which spring you're looking for. If it is the one that keeps the slide assembly in place on the ladder, gunpartcorps (Numrich) shows them as available (under Thompson; 1928 .45 ACP; page 6, part number 1117570).
Paul
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You can find a copy of the 1921 Actuator drawing (45-1-14) in two books written by Tracie L. Hill: "Thompson: the American Legend The First Submachine Gun", Fig. 338 on page 313 and "The Ultimate Thompson Book", Fig. 140 on page 87.
Paul
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No it is not a 'Colt' kit/parts set. The 1928A1s were manufactured by Auto-Ordnance and Savage. The listing on the CMP Forum says it is Auto-Ordnance, however from the photos the Trigger Frame appears to be of Savage manufacture.
Paul
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Not familiar with the current NY state or NY city laws but as I recall, the 100xx series Zip codes are for Manhatten, one of the five boroughs of New York City. Brooklyn Zip codes are 112xx; Queens are 113xx, 114xx; don't remember the ones for Staten Island or The Bronx. Best to check a Zip code map to determine if a specoific addfress is within NY city.
Paul
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Phil,
I believe you are correct on the knob.
Looks like the photo has been reversed as the ejection port on that Thompson is on the lwrong side.
Paul
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In my opinion, extremely suspect.
The rear sight looks like the type that Numrich used on their 27A1 semis; also the container that the sight is in has flathead machine screws that I'm guessing were used to attach the sight.
Although the photos aren't all that sharp, the knurling on the actuator knob looks like the type that I've seen on some cast reproduction actuators.
Just my thoughts.
Paul
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Sorry for being a little late to this discussion. My 1978 copy of the 20th Edition Machinery's Handbook shows the following:
5/8-28 Unified Screw Thread, Class 2
Allowance 0.0011
External: Major Diam. max. 0.6239, min. 0.6174; Minor Diam. 0.5801
Internal: Minor DIam. min. 0.586, max. 0.595; Major Diam. 0.6250
Hope this helps.
Paul
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He just responded and said he is currently in Nevada, so I cannot be of help in seeing it. Sorry folks.
That's very interesting since the auction listing shows his location as Hamilton, MT 59840.
Paul
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It's somewhat interesting that the photos were taken nearly three months ago. Must be someone who plans ahead?
Totally beyond my meager budget. However, being the cautious type and for the amount of money I expect it might go for, if I was intending on bidding I would at least ask for more photos; requesting different views/angles (e.g., front view of cover with the winding removed and next to it, back view of key, etc.).
Just my thoughts.
Paul
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If I remember correctly, the muzzle diameter for the original barrels (with ring type sights) is 0.750", so threading one for 0.750" x 28 to fit the Type II or III compensators would not be a problem except that the groove for the previously fitted ring type sight would remain.
It is pure speculation on my part, but I would guess that the 0.660" x 28 thread for the Type I was chosen so that the ring type sight pin groove would be removed during the process. Possibly it was determined that the presence of the groove was not a problem and the switch to the larger thread size was made. If for no other reason, it would involve less machining.
Paul
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Yes, but be careful, sell price on GunBroker is less but shipping is higher resulting in higher total cost.
Paul
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You might also consider making relief cuts on the bottom of the bolt to allow the magazine to be positioned higher.
Paul
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My guess is that it is an original second version 1921 acutator.
The first version has the notch mentioned but was that eliminated on the second version when the flat lower surface was changed to an arched one (for clearance for the hammer).
Paul
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It does not look cprrect to me; for one thing, look closely ast the knob.
Psaul
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Can't help you on the barrel threads but regarding the barrel being 'locked in' by the grip mount, it is actually the opposite.
The barrel, when screwed in, prevents the grip mount from being removed.
It is the tension from the tightening of the barrel that keeps it 'locked in'.
Paul
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I've never tried to sell on GB. Is it just a flat fee to list?
No, there is a Final Value Fee but no fee to list an item (either as an auction, Buy-It-Now or a combination of the two) unless you make use of their Optional Services (e.g., scheduled start time, highlighting and/or including a thumbnail image and/or a colored title, etc., when your auction shows up in a category search).
Auctions can be absolute or with a reserve.
The lack of a listing fee is the reason one sees many overpriced items relisted again and again.
I don't know if there is a limit on the number of photos as I've been able to include over three dozen photos in listings without any problems.
It is entirely up to the seller to set the form of payment.
There is a bit of a learning curve, but it's fairly easy to use once you get the hang of it.
Paul
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Jon,
Glad to be able to help.
Paul
What's the thickness of the original 1928 fiber washer?
in Thompson Submachine Gun Message Board
Posted
Measuring three from parts kits I have, the measurements of thickness I get are from 0.200" to 0.204".
They all look as if they have had very little to no use.
Hope this helps,
Paul