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Thought I’d share the video of the Savage/NAC dewat a fellow board member sent me to make run for him….started off by threading the barrel as the replacement he sent me was for a ring sight and he wanted to keep the comp on it. Then I had to cut the welds inside the chamber and spin the barrel free. Once that was done, I ground out/removed the weld material inside the chamber area, installed the new barrel, test fired to ensure the timing was right, then installed the comp, drilled and pinned it….once this was all done I went to the range and proceeded to test function followed by accuracy. The shooting in the video is the full function testing on semi then full. Accuracy wise…at 15 yards standing offhand (and in the blazing Ohio sun I might add) I was shooting a 4” group while on semi. I think someone will be very happy with this…..not bad for an armchair armorer…. https://youtu.be/MclwHyQ0Tw4?si=ipzXYEIHU4r-kMIn

So I ask my brother to make a bracelet and make it look worn.

I see that statement a lot, when I do I feel compelled to post this video. The 30-round magazines are the aftermarket ones made in Taiwan, cheap and they work!

Found Bruno Militaria on the internet. Figured I’d give them a try. They have mag catches listed in “perfect unused condition”. At $60 not cheap but for “perfect unused” I figured I’d give it a try. You have to email the guy and tell him what you want and he emails you back the total and you send a US Postal Money Order to a guy in Idaho. The parts get mailed from Poland. I got the parts in a little over a week but they were not “perfect unused condition”. I ordered three mag catches, two were at best VG with worn finish, one had a round gouge/dent on the left side and worn finish - I’d grade it a 50% part. This is a far cry from “perfect unused condition”. So add to the list of those who represent parts as new, mint, NOS, perfect, etc. and ship you used parts worth 1/2 of what you paid for them. No recourse. The guy you send the money to never sees the parts, and the guy who sends them is in Poland. Caveat Emptor. Bob

This arrived today and it should be interesting to say the least….i came to own a transferable West Hurley 1928 A22 Thompson. It’s crazy that it’s all aluminum and you literally could throw it out of your hands when you pick it up as it’s so light!! I plan to test fire it tomorrow afternoon to see how it runs. I’ll do a more in depth break down of it once I get a chance.

Careful what you wish for. If the registry was opened to newly made MGs you can bet the $200 tax gets adjusted for inflation

I just posted this video in response to another "M2 carbine muzzle rise" comment yesterday... The 30 round mags are those made in Taiwan, they work very well!

The Early AO drawing notes the following, with an arrow pointing to teh bottom below the retaining lug "Bend grip here before heat treating to throw forward end up .10" to insure firm seating against barrel" In my opinion, based upon observation, all Colt made parts had the bend, as did parts in all 1928 guns. I think the bend in the milled parts was likely eliminated with the M1, and the subsequent multi part assembled grips mounts did not have the bend.

I have an old West Hurley Auto Ordnance M-1927A1 with the cylindrical, knurled charging knob. I had been thinking to get one of the spherical knurled charging knobs from Kahr - but waited too long and found out that they no longer make those. So, I could make one on my lathe but don't have the equipment to do the knurling. A small detail but it would be nice to have all the details correct if possible. I am wondering how many people here would be interested in a group buy from an established manufacturer? I would be willing to spend any reasonable amount for one of these - but I figure that if we get a reliable shop involved we could get the cost down to something more reasonable. So how many people here would be interested in this?

I believe the Adams Mass. PD is the Law Enforcement sign off by the police Chief in 1994.

He is a board member, maybe he has more. https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1062675551

Hats off to you for this interesting and informative labor of love. Great work.

Worry about the current state of life and to enjoy it in good condition. AND THAT YOU CAN CONTINUE.NOT SOME B.S. THAT HAS BEEN TALKED ABOUT SINCE 1934. and is likely to never change. what was that kids tune... it goes round and round?

Kahr's current price on the "Cheese grater" is 45bux. Their primary excuse for NOT making the spherical knob is expense. I say laziness. If one can turn and knurl a cylinder, they can turn and knurl a sphere. Given the small size, it literally takes an extra 3 minutes. If I had a mill and lathe, I'D do it, and make some money from Kahr's laziness. Cold bluing can be done if the part is impeccably clean and grease/oil-free (and I mean, don't even touch it with bare fingers). If the price stays below $50ea, I'm in for 5. If not, I'm in for 2. If you want to make money by selling volume, go with $40ea. There's definitely a market for them. My humble two cents, Karl, 68coupe

Hey jld3713! That would be great! It looks like you would have orders for 9 pieces so far. I don't want to speak for everybody here - I would pay any reasonable amount for one of these. The main things would be that they are knurled and blued. So, what do the rest of you guys say about price? What do you think is reasonable?

Raising the $200 tax would require legislation. Ruling that the Hughes Amendment was unconstitutional, if it happens, would be done through the courts. The two issues are not necessarily linked. But if the Hughes Amendment gets thrown out by the courts (and we're a long way from that), Congress might get involved to expand the Registry by including semiautomatics. That's actually more worrisome than indexing the $200 tax to inflation.

US GI non-corrosive primers: Non-Corrosive Primer Dates.PDF (odcmp.org)

So long time ago I ordered (from whom I cannot remember) a case of Portuguese M80 and then about two years later got a recall notice. I ignored it and shot the stuff. Zero issues. Almost all my 7.62 x 51 ball is now German NATO, with a nice can of LC Sniper, and about 800 rounds of tracer.

I have a DS H&R M14 and an LIA1, I had an HK G3. My comment is simply... shoot a .308 / 7.62 on full auto before you buy one. That being said, I like M14s for their history and being U.S. issue, but 90 countries adopted the FAL only one adopted the M14 In my book, there is lots of info on both rifles including the T48 (US FAL) and early attempts at making the M1 Garand full auto, as well as all the weapons developed and tested for the 1950s "Light Rifle Program"

As As usual, I appreciate it.

While late coming to the party with Sellier & Bellot (SB), I have found SB 230 grain ball ammo runs perfectly in my Thompson.

Here’s a second video that came out last night. It is definitely worth the watch. these people are out of Houston Texas

One of these days I'll find the one that was locally for sale with 2-3 drums. So far all I have is the carrier? ....Seed part.

Didn't Wonder Woman have similar jewelry?

SPARKS I FEEL FOR YOU SOLD A BUNCH NEW KITS HERE WELL OVER 10 YEARS AGO ALONG WITH A TON OF UNISSUED POUCHES AND BELTS 20 RD 30 RD ALONG WITH NEW MAGS INCLUDING PATENT DATE.YES I DO FEEL SORRY FOR THE GUYS TODAY. THEY GET STUNG BUYING WHATS LEFT FROM ALL OVER THE AND TODAY ITS BEAT RUSTED CUT UP CHOPPED.I MUST HAVE SOLD A 100 ,100 RD DRUM CASES WITH STRAP ALL NEW. ALONG WITH 200 PLUS 50 RD CASES MILLS AND RUSCOAND U.S. MARKED. SAME DEAL.EVEN AT SOME LOCAL SHOWS NOW BLOOD STAINED, WORN, NO CARRY STRAP. I WALK AWAY SHAKING MY HEAD.SOME MAY THINK I AM A AHOLE. THATS FINE I HAD THE STUFF AND THEY BOUGHT IT IN DROVES. AND MANY CAME BACK FOR MORE AND TOLD THE FRIENDS I WON'T BUY, SO THEY COULD SNATCH IT UP INSTEAD. AFTER 50 YEARS IN THIS BIZZ YOU GET THAT WAY. AND IF SOME TELL YOU NOT THEY ARE F.O.S.EVEN TO SO CALLED BIG GUYS LEFT. DO THE SAME BECAUSE I HAD DEALS WITH ALL OF THEM AT ONE TIME OR ANOTHER. AND VERY FEW EVER PASSED. THEY ALL BOUGHT.JUST NOW ITS A WAY DIFFERENT WORLD. AND I HAVE MY STORY AND TALE ON EVERYONE OF THEM... NOW ITS BUY WHATEVER IS OFFERED OUT THERE OR GET A GOOD IN, WITH A OLD TIME COLLECTOR WHO SELLS OUT. A LOT OF PERRY'S STUFF ENDED UP WITH CHARLIE AND GEMINI. WITH APEX. AND BOWMAN HAD OTHER SOURCES. MEL HAS SOME GREAT STUFF RATHOLED AWAY IN COLORADO WITH NO INTENTION OF SELLING OFF. SO WISH YOU LUCKY FINDING SOME DEALS. YOU HAVE TO MAKE CONNECTIONS TIME AND MONEY. BUT NO SOUL SELLING SO YOU SHOULD BE GOOD. HAVE A NICE 2024.RON K.

I may be way off, but I checked similar parts and came up with between $8500 and $10,000. He shipped Friday and everything just arrived USPS, priority mail. I'm amazed.

If they were that cheap I would have bought several. Wasn't born early enough to see the cheap kits available, so us newcomers are stuck with the dregs. You buy what you can get at the time, be thankful you got to play with the good stuff, they will never go down in price.

On the RIA auction MG37(t), the gun comes with a fairly decent pile of parts; mostly internals . . . no barrels but spare bolts, op rods, feed blocks, grip assemblies, and 3 extra top covers. Interestingly, of the spare top covers 2 are actual wartime German (and so marked) . . . and one of them is the original matching numbered top cover to the gun. All I can guess is that perhaps there was some issue with the original cover's function so the prior owner used the non-German top cover (that is currently on the gun) for shooting purposes. Anyway, I'll get it all sorted out at some point and make darn sure that the matching numbered original German top cover stays on the gun. No tripod was included in the auction lot, but I've been assured by various RKI's that it will not be too difficult to find a decent German Lafette 37 marked tripod to go with it; apparently there are German occupation period (Lafette 37 marked) tripods mixed in with the parts kits imports of cut guns and tripods that came into the US. That said, if anyone knows of a German occupation Lafette 37 for sale I would sure appreciate hearing about it. I'll also be looking to track down some belts and some Czech pre-war ammo cans (the ones that look like a German 250 round can). Prior to the auction I consulted with two collectors who each have 40+ years of C&R NFA experience. Between these guys and some internet research, we concluded the RIA gun to be only the 4th known transferable ZB37 in the US. Apparently Dick Wray had one that was offered for sale about 15+ years ago; details and current location of that gun are unknown. Then, Bob Naess reports having a ZB37 in 7mm Mauser (pre-war Venezuelan contract) in his collection that is fully transferable. Also, one of the guys with whom I spoke (a Las Vegas-based collector) has a pre-war Czechoslovakian army contract ZB37 (C&R) in his collection. Again, details of the Dick Wray gun are unknown to me, but of the four (4) transferable ZB37's of which I am currently aware, the RIA auction gun is the only German occupation production gun here in the US. Who knows . . . perhaps there are additional C&R and/or transferable guns out there in collectors' hands (and, if so, I'd sure like to correspond with the owners to compare notes). Back to the original topic of auction prices: In consultation with these older collectors who so generously shared their wealth of knowledge, the consensus was that the RIA auction gun should bring a price at least equivalent to what a comparable condition C&R MG42 (gun only - no tripod) would command, so I bid accordingly. Of course, if you like history (as is my primary motivation for collecting), just do some internet searches and you will see that after the German "annex" of Czechoslovakia, the ZB37's (both ex-Czech army + the wartime production guns) appear to have gone almost exclusively to the Waffen SS . . . so (for me at least) there is a bit of a wartime combat history "wow" factor documented in the period photos and information regarding the ZB37's in pre-May, 1945 German military service.

My wife is very understanding…if it’s something for the business that I’ll flip, she doesn’t care…..if it’s something I’m going to keep, she just asks for a heads up….told her at the beginning of the month….”I might be buying a belt fed if the deal works out” then yesterday it was “hey I ended up buying that belt fed I told you about” Her response and I quote “it’s your money and as long as the bills are paid plus you’re happy, I don’t care”

I was getting a few light strikes as well from my shortened titanium pin. I ground a couple of thousands out of the front of the retaining pin slot so that the end of the pin protruded out of the back of the bolt a little further, solved the problem.

My pin is titanium from Keystone with a wolf spring. I have it down to 3.970. Once in a great while I will get a lite strike, no big deal I'm just playing around anyway. If I ever do a pin again I will add a few thousands. I have put about 2K rounds thru on this pin and it is still going strong.

Thanks for looking guys. My brother is a goldsmith. We got a 3d image and he scanned it into a machine he has to make casts and then printed it out in wax, made a plaster mold and then cast it with 14k. He wanted it with detail I wanted it to look decades old and worn. I am happy with it.

https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/massive-stash-of-ww2-brit-surplus-thompsons-found-coming-up-for-sale-44815012 Karl, 68coupe

Might be, common sense says the pin needs have some movement it is important to not have any gunk in there to put some drag on the pin. As dirty as my gun runs it makes sense to keep it clean. If I put light oil in there dirt would stick to the pin and channel. I use dry moly in that area, slick stuff and does not collect any crud compared to light oil of some sort.

The best $20 you'll ever spend https://www.brpguns.com/sten-mk4-magazine-loader-spoon-type/ These actually work much better than the more expensive MK2 loaders and almost as well as the hyper-expensive Austen loaders

OK. Direct answer to OP's original question. Yes, broken Reising firing pin can be repaired(maybe). Depends on exactly where it broke. If just small amount of the tip then it is possible to repoint by welding and reshaping. Other method is to cut off damaged portion, dress, drill a small hole for replacement tip made of round stock. Insert replacement in hole and soft solder, silver solder or braze. High temp of brazing or silver solder can cause pin to warp, be careful. Then trim to length. Had pretty good luck repointing that way although I replaced repaired pin ASAP. Will see if I can find it in the box o" parts. Had a pin break just a tiny amount once, maybe a 1/8". Dressed it down and repointed. Put a lighter Firing Pin Spring in it. The gun worked ! Did not get any primer dimples from chambering. Would not recommend this though, could lead to slam fire if not done right or not work at all. Yes, the FP modification is good idea. The Reising had a lot of hand fitted parts, one of the issues that kept it from being a good Military weapon. Best to buy and fit a few spare FPs for the gun, along with an extractor and screw. I keep a spare set in a hole under the buttplate of mine.

In terms of preventing breakage I think that may actually be more important than converting the firing pin to inertial

I have no idea how international arms laws work in the UK/rest of Europe, but I believe this outfit is based in Poland: https://genuine-militaria.com/thompson-1928a1-m1-m1a1-bridgeport-20-rd-xx-left-facing-magazine-bs-28/ Never dealt with them personally, but have exchanged a few emails, and somewhere online I found someone describing a positive experience with them.

Your 38/44 turned out really nice - congratulations! I am also lucky to have one of these in my collection: it is the only NFA item that I ever acquired directly from the (living) bring-back US WWII veteran. The vet (a P-51 pilot in the ETO) became a good friend . . . I sure miss him (and the other WWII vet buddies who are all now gone). The stock on this 38/44 has the little "UT44" and other stampings on it, and is also made of 2 pieces of wood (with a clearly visible joint). In the course of our many conversations, the vet at one point casually mentioned how the stock on the 38/44 is "sort of rough and needs to be sanded and refinished . . . . " He went on to say that he had "always intended" to sand + refinish the stock and try to "work on" the visible joint to make it all look better, but that he simply "never got around to it". Needless to say, I am happy that he left the stock alone so it is in the same condition now as when one of his Squadron mates pulled it out of a pile of surrendered weapons near Munich in April/May of 1945 (the other pilot pulled one for himself and gave a second one to my vet buddy). I sure have lots of fond memories of visits with these old guys and watching them pull stuff out of their attics, closets, etc. Good times.

I would venture to say that PaulF saved us a lot of misery with his suggestion for the fix.

I just rewelded a postie last week. Still working out a few little kinks but it sure is fun. Best $150 I ever spent

Bridgeport28A1 has answered the question based on all known information. Yes, you can believe what you want but all the very early M1 Thompson submachine guns I have seen in original configuration have paddle levers, a non-crossbolt butt stock and a 1928 style magazine catch release lever (made for a drum). M1 Thompson guns in original condition are difficult to find but they do exist. I have never studied the M1 or M1A1 Thompson guns but do rely on what I have observed and Frank's American Thunder books. On Page 163 of American Thunder, Third Edition, Frank states, "Early M1's were manufactured using the same paddle type rocker pivot and safety levers, without the knurled surfaces, as used on the late production U.S. M19298A1 model. These were eventually replaced with the simpler two-piece pin type." There is a picture at the bottom of page 163 of a Savage M1 Thompson, NO. 73224, with paddle levers, non-crossbolt stock and a 1928 style magazine catch. Unfortunately, there is a lot of misinformation in the Thompson community. If you are going to have a position on a subject in the Thompson community, I always suggest first looking at the known published information. The published information may not be correct or more accurately - complete. But it is a starting point. Those that believe pin type levers were installed on the late M1928A1 Thompson submachine guns from the factory, find some documentation or pictures of late guns in original configuration that indicate this. I am very open minded on this and every topic. But I am not interested in what Andrewski opines as documentation of anything. His opinion is nice to know and his work is impeccable, but he is not an historian when it comes to the technical aspects of the Thompson submachine gun. The above picture of A.O. 153119x is not a 1928A1 Thompson submachine gun. It is a 1928AC Thomson submachine gun manufactured from parts by the Auto-Ordnance Division of Maguire Industries after the Model of 1928 Thompson submachine gun was out of production at the two factories. If your really interested in the M1/M1A1 Thompson submachine gun spend 40 bucks and buy Frank's, Amercian Thunder, Third Edition. It is the authority on the subject. But don't just read it, study it. Highlight information, write in it, dog ear it, but more importantly, use it. If your interested in the 1928AC Thompson, buy a copy of, A Thompson Compendium, 40 bucks directly from me, 50 bucks at Amazon. These books are not collector's items. Use them to become well informed on the many different variations of the Thompson submachine gun. All good stuff!!!

You can shorten a firing pin and it will not break again. I have not broke one for many rounds, before I found a fix I broke one about every 800 to 1 K rounds.

That is a Bridgeport WW2 drum. Not as valuable as the Third Generation New York Drum.

There are some tankers in the registry, but they were not popular due to the fact when they were brought in the ground gun kit was missing, thus they were fairly worthless at the time to shooters. Complete ground kits are rare. I don't recall if they were numbered or not to guns? A lot of matching "as new" parts kits were brought in, but again, missing the ground kit, they brought less money than a normal 34 kit.

An update on those rusty old Magazines. First batch done and ready for reassembling. Second batch I want to dry in hot Attic few more days. Color is Dark Parkerizing Aluma-Hyde by Brownells.

Sure looks like 7.62x54r Russian ammo

New forum member here from the St. Louis area. Kahr M1 semi auto that I built into an SBR. Have followed deerslayer's advice regarding GI mags and no more failures to feed. Thanks! The foregrip is "sprung" down a bit. Can't see a way to adjust this without pulling the foregrip mount and that looks like a daunting task. Any suggestions?

mine is a russian ppsh-41, i got it from a kid in high school, around 1962, i trade him a reweld m-1 grand straight across for it, his dad brought it back from korea, we did the swap in the school parking lot ! then i took school bus home, i papered it in 1968,i still have it, myy oldest kiid will get it when i croak, im 79 now, just sayn