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DFisch

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Posts posted by DFisch

  1. I’m not sure if this is a viable solution, but I remember when I was building an airplane there were aluminum AN rivets available that had a larger diameter body with the same diameter head as a standard rivet. They were for oversized holes but looked like a normal rivet. Maybe something like this could be used? Just a thought…

  2. Dont feel bad; I asked the same question when I bought my first generation Worcester drum. The first generation Worcester drum is the same thing as the third model New York drum. The first New York drum has a serial number. The second New York drum is called the NO. drum where there is a space for a serial number that isnt there. The 3rd New York drum illuminates the number spot. I hope I am remembering that correctly.
  3. I like to think all the comments and suggestions are meant as just that: suggestions. As the designer/engineer, benedw60 has the option to incorporate whatever input he gets or not, but I've always thought it helpful to hear opinions from people with such a broad range of experience.

     

    If the desire is to recreate a 21 actuator exactly, of course all the advice is moot. The final decision rests with the person doing the work, but it never hurts to get feedback if given in good faith.

  4. FWIW, I was planning on a cut-down GI actuator for a "shooter" 21 actuator, so I've already accepted the "U" shape (since there isn't much of choice). The lack of knurling on the GI actuator would be more offensive than the slot shape. If I wanted a display actuator, the pear-shaped slot would be more desireable, but my prime reason to get one would be for shooting, where strength would be higher on the want list than "U" vs. "Pear".

     

    My $0.02

     

    Doug

  5. Some questions for the experts:

     

    In picture 15, is it common on guns with the original finish to have such a discrepancy in the lettering depth? The center area of the "SEMI-AUTOMATIC" appears much shallower than the outer letters, with no apparent wear to the finish.

     

    Also - in picture 24 the comp pin end looks very flat. I've seen pictures of pins with more radius, but maybe there was manufacturing variation during the production run? Replacement pin?

     

    Just trying to learn...

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