PTRS-14.5 Posted December 26, 2018 Report Share Posted December 26, 2018 (edited) The T24 I picked up is ready to rock so I'm trying to find some spares. The gun came from Morphy pretty much matching in 8 mm Chinese so the effort has been on 54r set up, which I guess should be easier than 8mm Chinese parts. Found a Chinese barrel reworked for 54r which is serviceable but bent... And a lock. Images attached. I assume the short one is correct? What is the other? Std. German maxim? I know it's not 1910... Can anyone recommend someone to straighten the barrel on a fixture or one of the special presses?ThxCharliePTRS Edited December 26, 2018 by PTRS-14.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black River Militaria CII Posted December 26, 2018 Report Share Posted December 26, 2018 Pic #3: top lock is Finn Maxim, duplicate of Russian 1910 Maxim made by Finn outfit and in 54r. It will not fit the T24 action since the T24 is a copy of the German 1909 Commercial Maxim with a shorter lock body, as can be seen in the pic. With modification, the extractor of the Finn 54r lock can be made to fit the and function on the body of the 8mm T24 lock. FWIW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTRS-14.5 Posted December 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2018 (edited) Thx Bob! I read the dissertation on the T24 locks on 1919.com. It's a wealth of maxim lock info on the early 08, 09, T24 and 1910 locks. I'm sure glad I stashed plenty of 1910 parts when you built my gun! Do you think a bent brl can be straighten with a press in my plt using the old visual sighting method? It's about 3/4 " off on the light end of the taper.Thx,Charlie Edited December 26, 2018 by PTRS-14.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hkg3k Posted December 29, 2018 Report Share Posted December 29, 2018 (edited) Do you think a bent brl can be straighten with a press in my plt using the old visual sighting method? It's about 3/4 " off on the light end of the taper. Thx, Charlie Might it not be easier and produce a better result to go ahead and pick up a 1910 barrel (or three) and have it contoured and threaded? I bought a bunch of 1910 barrels back when I had my MG08 and 08/15 converted to 54r...I then took them to a local machinist to have them contoured and threaded. Works great with both...of course I have to put the threaded sleeve on the barrel for the 08/15. Bob probably has some converted 1910 barrels lying around... Edited December 29, 2018 by hkg3k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTRS-14.5 Posted December 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2018 Thanks for your observation. I have 3 or 4 SA FIN 1910 barrels set back but I'm not sure they have the threaded brass sleeves for head space adjustment on the barrels as needed for the T24 lock and related assemblies. I may well be wrong here on this aspect of the head space adjustment on the Chinese Maxim. I'm sure someone with chime in if that's the case... Id rather take a poorer (metallurgically speaking) Russian 1910 brl have it turned and modified for the T24 adjustment feature than use a good SA Brl. Looking forward to getting back east and playing with the T24. I'll test the gun with the original matching Chinese 8 MM Brl and Lock stash it and move onto the newly acquired 7.62 x 54R lock and a head space adjustable brl for normal shooting. Finally the only reason to straighten the original Chinese brl is I have no other original modified example for the the collection.But then again it would be the only bent barrel I own... LOL PTRSCharlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hkg3k Posted December 30, 2018 Report Share Posted December 30, 2018 Both the Finn and Russian barrels have the brass "seat" rings (as do German barrels too)...the rings are not really associated with setting head-space. Head-space is set/adjusted by adding or removing shims under the nut on the lock spigot. Good luck with whichever way you decide to go on the 54r barrel... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTRS-14.5 Posted December 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2018 Thanks again!. I did have a bunch of sleeves in the box with the lock assembly... Is this what you are referring to? How large are these shims? The only one of my maxims I've shot is the 1910 Bob built up for me. Do you have an image or drwg of this shim in place on the spigot? Regards,CharliePTRS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hkg3k Posted December 30, 2018 Report Share Posted December 30, 2018 The shims are going to look like really thin washers...approx 3/4" O.D. and a few thousandths thick When you attach the lock to the recoil plates...you place the lock on the lock spigot and turn. On the spigot, the lock seats on the spigot nut...which is probably better described as a round threaded collar with a couple of engagement slots. Under the spigot nut / collar is where the shims are located. Remove the nut / collar to add or remove shims...adding shims places the lock closer to the breech -and- removing shims brings the lock back from the breech. The spigot nut/collar can be removed using a standard 1910 multi wrench http://www.militaria-shop.cz/media/b8uBvRAjOmu7GjJLEHYyCM6JJdBV8f95/big.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTRS-14.5 Posted December 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2018 Once again thx for the explanation. I will have to look closely when I get home. As needed I can have shim stock made in assorted thicknesses to set headspace. If others are needing these, let me know before I get the shop runs them. They can easily be punched from assorted shim material. Is there a range of suggested thicknesses or material (SS vrs CS) guys? ThxCharliePTRS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTRS-14.5 Posted January 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2019 HK I'm sure glad you got me on track! Ive looked all the parts over and now see the explanation of the head-space issue. Was able to score some nice parts that should have me lined out to finish out the missing items on my T24. Images below. After looking things over I see where the shims now go on the spigot. In fact Ive got those with the spare slide and spigot assembly. It appears all I now need is the cap that goes on the drain side of the water jacket. Images below... I would swap some of the extra parts for the cap that goes on the water jacket. I'm amazed the way the Chinese mod the 8MM barrel for a 54r conversion. Too bad the barrels bent! Its not too bad. I'd bet if I can get the guys in the plants attention they may be able to correct it. But once I'm home they'll pissed I've been F in off for 2 months...I'll be betting they will want to run many belts thru it come spring.. http://i65.tinypic.com/oa6q9t.jpghttp://i68.tinypic.com/2d6s274.jpghttp://i68.tinypic.com/152nj0l.jpghttp://i64.tinypic.com/xpnes8.jpg If anyone wants to swap parts let me know. ThxCharlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hkg3k Posted January 19, 2019 Report Share Posted January 19, 2019 Yeah it's no big deal once the parts are in hand to see how everything goes together and works. You got a nice little nest of parts for your new acquisition...some will be great for back-ups and some will be great for trading. Your barrel looks like it was converted by inserting a new skinny blank into the bored-out stub of some sort of original Maxim barrel and at a minimum pinned in place. Since this barrel is bent, I still think your best option is to obtain a good 54r barrel and turn down the end to the proper diameter...you don't necessarily have to thread the muzzle unless you want to run a blank adapter or put an 08/15 sleeve on it. I've personally never seen (or heard) there's a cap for the drain port of a MG08 or T24. That's not to say they don't exist...I've just never seen one myself. If they do...someone will be along to speak up or post a pic Carry on and good luck!. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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