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smkummer

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Posts posted by smkummer

  1. The 13.7K seems like the going rate for an almost matching C&R MP40. Its not over priced these days. Spare parts such as extractors, firing pins and ejectors are available but not cheap and so are repro barrels of which you have to re-attach the hard wear and sweat on the front sight. Asking prices for mags. is now around $100. They can have issues of which some tweaking of the feed lips usually cures. A MP40 is a sweet shooter with a very nice rate of fire.

  2. Funny after all these years you still hear comparisons with the M14 and M16/M4. I believe ideally, they all have a place, meaning that a squad or platoon should have options on weapons. I would take a M4 for house clearing and street fighting. The fact that I could have almost twice the amount of ammo for close range, is a big overriding factor for me. I would take a M14 for primarily long shots. Let the foot shoulder choose the weapon for the job.

  3. I shoot a Reising in competition and do not have a feed issue with the magazines both original 20 round and Ken's 30 round magazines. Sure the mag. lips are an area of concern and are not as tough as the Grease gun with its re-enforced feed lip area. I am lucky or blessed enough to own a Savage 28A1, M3 and a Reising. They all have good qualities and some lesser traits. My understanding is that Reising was in contact or maybe involved somewhat with the Browning on the 1911. So he may have decided that a tilt locking closed bolt design was the way to go. It appears that was not in the best interest with WW2 looming but today us shooters are given the opportunity to shoot a unique subgun that can and will function as designed.

  4. Read the story of my Ingram M6. Bob N. did the work and was able to smooth up the chamber enough to make it work. An Ingram M6 military barrel is very rare so that saved a bunch for me right away. My gun was a light Dewatt as the bolt was not welded shut. If I didn't tell someone it was a rewatt, most would not know. I have 1/2 the price total of my gun as it is live as Ruben wants for a commercial M6. Well worth it to me.
  5. Since the bolt isn't matching, you will have less reservations shooting it. The above pricing is correct, I would add though at the top of that range is what a well known dealer asks and he is often quoted at about 20% higher than others. While I have seen asking prices over 20K for a matching gun, it probably sold for less. So I try to buy at a price that if I needed to sell, it would sell at that price within a couple of weeks.

     

    And if it were my gun, I would get a Scott Andrey barrel and have the other parts attached so as to make it an assembly. Then you would sleep better knowing you have less of a chance of buldging the original barrel in the rare chance of firing a round after a squib load.

     

    And yes, do not turn down a original MP40 that does not have a matching bolt if the price is up to a couple of grand off from a all matching gun.

  6. I have just read this on the FPB bolt. I did get one for my mint matching C&R MP40 so as to save the original. It is and was very stiff, I have cut a little of the recoil spring out. It still has a tendency to run away or somehow maybe hit the release knob and the receiver twists so the sear wont catch. I am not going to use it in competition anymore until I figure it out, I will use my original bolt and see if that fixes the gun, if so, then I need to readdress the FPB bolt.

     

    And yes, I have re=peened an original MP40 bolt handle and it is secure for now.

  7. I will use the M6 to replace the Uzi. Both open bolt iron sight. I have an optic top cover for the Uzi so it will be my optic/open bolt gun. The M6 shoots wonderfully and with its progressive trigger, its really a fine match gun. If you want to PM you cell number, I can send you a video of me shooting it at on stage of the Knob Creek shoot when I was just fun shooting.

     

    This is the first I have heard that Indiana will run a match again. Its been 6 or 7 years since they have done it. Did you ever shoot there?

  8. Yea, that was me. I figured I am the lone Reising shooter most of the time, someone has to carry the banner. I believe the highest I ever placed with it was 3rd or 4th. And I will compete with it for a long time if they keep the categories as they currently have. I may shoot my new to me Ingram M6 next time if I can get some more magazines.

  9. gun now is live, Bob Naess did great work. The weld on the side of the receiver holding the barrel is not noticeable if you were not looking for it. The barrel is now deeply blued and so is the front sight. Bob carefully removed the barrel weld and saved the barrel. Along with indexing it to properly fit the forearm. Its been a 2 year process to get this de-watt out of New Jersey to Indiana and make live. I will fire it in full auto tomorrow. thanks Bob

  10. I am pretty sure I don't have that part, but if ever there was a part that one could make, it would be that part. I would match the thickness up with a nail, cut to length and with a bench grinder, run it on the side of the wheel with some pressure to one side of the pin so as to form a tapered flat area. Presto, you then have made the part. Drop it in cold blue or heat it until orange and drop it in oil. Now the part is blued. just my .02

  11. Numrich sells a nice repro 20 round magazine for I believe $50 and it has most of the original markings. But the 30 rounder from Christie (I load 32 rounds) are best for your fire breathing beast. I too installed a wolf spring kit. I have addressed the firing pin issue several times, but if your firing pin is floating, meaning it does not protrude when the back of the pin is flush with the bolt, your pin will last a long time. Also, take the pin out and clean and oil when cleaning the gun. The Christie magazines will sometime rub on the inside of the action bar, I simply oil the inside of the action bar so heat and friction doesn't build up. None of my original 20 round magazines rub the action bar. I have shot anywhere from 12-15K rounds through my gun since 1999. And probably 98% are cast bullet reloads. I keep my compensator clean by sometimes using a pic to pic the lead out. I have broke several firing pins and since I shortened my last pin so its a floating pin, my firing pin issue has left the building. I have cracked an action bar and have had it silver soldered at the rear where is actually broke and it works fine but I am runner a later bar in my early 12K serial number reising. Again, this could have been a problem with friction on the Christie magazines or not. Your 2 piece bumper plug solved the problem of the early one piece plug breaking like mine did, so I am running the later 2 piece. Your reinforced stock solved the problem of a cracked stock but I never cracked my early stock, that was most likely a military issue. If your ever at Knob Creek, I can show you a technique of flipping the trigger to get it to single fire for subgun competition. I like the fast firing reising as it does such a nice 3 round burst.

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