Bounty1

I am trying to sell a Model 50 and would like to know a fair price to request, from a dealer or individual. This particular Model 50 is in pretty excellent condition. Left the factory on December 8, 1941, for police use..Doesn't look like it saw much use. Bore, wood, excellent. Blueing has no flaws. 4 digit S/N, and has three 20 rd. mags, all H&R manufacture. I feel the offers I received have been pretty "low ball". Would like some members to give a ball park figure on asking price for this. I will provide pictures if that would help. I've had it since 1975, and don't "need" to sell it, but want to sell it. Thanks in advance to all who reply.

Thank you "BUG" "First Sergeant", and "Stampcollector.....you have answered my question. It is appreciated. Bounty1

I have a West Hurley 39 round drum, but nowhere on it does it say how many clicks to use. Same as L-Drum, 9-11? Just want to check before I start winding. Thanks

Group who replied regarding lost page of Form 4, i.e., the CLEO sign-off. Believe me, I am very careful with the "original" Form 4's. They are kept under lock and key, and only copies with the firearms.. The forms were not submitted apart. This form goes back to the 1970's so there have been changes. The approval with stamp was on one page, and the CLEO sign-off on another. The original was returned to me as two copies. How the 2nd page was lost remains a mystery, and I don't have any copies of it. If I did, there would be no problem. To Grasshopper: Thanks for your input. The back of the first sheet just contains lots of BATFE boilerplate printed information. The CLEO sign off at the time, 70's, was on a separate sheet.

Hi Group, Hope someone can help me with this. I was going through my original Form 4's the other day and noticed that the CLEO sign off (page 2) for my Reising was missing. I probably left it on a copier some time in the past. Does anyone know if this can be replaced with request to BATFE? Note: Page one with "stamp" and approval is all there. Thanks, Bounty1

Frank, Thanks for the info. I guess I'm just not going to worry about it for now, as I have page 1 with the BATFE OK, and the actual transfer stamp. Hope all is well with you. We shot together several times up in MD at some of the Thompson Show and Shoots. All the best.

I have recently discovered that I have lost the CLEO sign-off for one of my SMGs on a Form 4.. I still have the first page with stamp, BATFE approval for transfer etc. This form goes back to 1975, and the forms have changed in the interim. I notice that the newer ones have the CLEO sign-off on the back of the 1st page, but I honestly don't remember about this particular one, because the back of the 1st page is just instructions, but I seem to remember having to get a sign-off on it, so that had to be on a 2nd page, now missing, and probably left on a copy machine somewhere.. Anyone know if BATFE will provide a copy of this, or the procedure to go through to get it, or if it would even be necessary to get it, or if they'd go "ballistic" with this sort of request? Any info would be appreciated.

Hi Group. I still have problems with my WH 1928A1. Too long to get into now, but does anyone know where I can get a full lower for my 1928A1, and how much would-should it cost. If you have one for sale let me know. Obviously, I'd want one that is mil-spec or mil-spec quality. Thanks, you've all been a great help.

Gunhistorian, Don't you have to admit that "Captain Tony's" where the original "Sloppy Joe's" was located, is a much better bar than where the supposed "Sloppy Joe's" is now? Now you know a bit of the "true" history. BTW - If you ever go to EYW (Key West), take the trip to Fort Jefferson in the Dry Tortugas. Great trip. And while on the way there, by boat or seaplane only, the least visited US Park in the US, you will pass the Marquesas Islands, where Mel Fishcher found all the gold and silver, etc., from the "Nuestra Senora de Atocha". If you ever go to his museum down there, which I would recommend, they had a gold bar that was enclosed in a plastic/lucite case where you could reach in and hold it in your hand, but couldn't get it out. Homo Sapiens, being the rather intelligent species that we are, one of them figured a way to get it out, and absconded with about 4 pounds of gold. BTW - The "Nuestra Senora de Atocha" went down in a hurricane in 1622. I asked some of the curators whether they were through with all the lawsuits about who owned the treasure in 2002, and was told, they fought off the United States first. Then they had to fight off the State of Florida. (Keep in mind that none of these existed when the ship went down.) And now they were fighting off lawsuits by Spain, and the descendants of the people who were on the "Nuestra Senora de Atocha" and hoped they would win the lawsuit. Does that tell you what governments will do do "get you" when there are $ in the balance?

"Papa" was a real character for sure. During WWII, he'd take the Pilar out from Cuba and look for German subs. He apparently took a hard knock to the head while covering the Spanish Civil War in the 30's and it did something permanent. Got worse as he got older. Bought a foreign sports car and would not let his mechanic change the oil in it, because he said that it "wouldn't be a genuine foreign car if he did that." i.e. put American oil in it. I guess all of these sorts of things led up to his eventual suicide. BTW - If you can't get to his house in Cuba, you can check out his "crib" in Key West if you get there. He had a urinal taken out of Sloppy Joe's to be used for his many 6-toed cats watering hole on the property.( Sloppy Joe's, where it is now, is not the original location. The "real" Sloppy Joe's is where Captain Tony's is now, and it's a much better bar if you make it down there.)

Well, I was advised by my smith who has had experience with Thompsons in the military that he is "stymied" by the fact that: #1 He can not replicate the doubling or tripling problem I've had with it, even though 2 other people shot it and did. He wasn't there to see this. #2 He can't figure out why, even though I had no problems up to this point, that it is now giving me feeding problems with WWII stick mags. Usually will put one in the chamber and then the other one feeds up and jams. The one that pops up and jams usually comes from the left side of the stick. #3 Only thing I've done to it recently has been to put a mil-spec actuator in it, and replaced the buffer with a mil-spec, and put in one of PK's buffer pads. Anybody got any ideas, because right now all I have is a 10 pound anchor. He has access to another 1928 and I suggested he swap out the lowers and see if the problem still exists. He may do this if the other TSMG owner is willing, but I get the feeling that he's just thrown up his hands at this point. Thanks I'm in Florida if that helps. Know any really good TSMG smiths in Florida? PK would be great to work this out, but I may be having a "dirt nap" by then with as far as he's backed up with work by the time he could get to it.

Anybody ever have this problem? For the first time also, I am getting feeding jams on stick mags, despite using about 6 different sticks, and no, they are not semi-Kahr mags. Drums work fine. It will chamber a round, not fire, and another pops up. Perhaps very light firing pin hit on chambered round. Never had this problem before. Brought it to a good Thompson mechanic and he just advised he is stymied. Has no idea what could be causing this, and said he had never run into the problem of doubles or triples on semi, and could not replicate the problem on the range. Anybody got any ideas? I'd hate to have to use it as a boat anchor from now on.

Anybody have, or know where I can get a mil-spec magazine catch for a 1928A?

Thanks to all for the answers to my first post about this problem, i.e., getting "doubles" when on Semi. I took problem child to the range today. I had a new milled actuator in it. Didn't seem to make much difference when I put the cast one back in and tried that too after getting "doubles" on semi with both of them. I've been using S&B, Aguila, and Fiocchi. Doesn't seem to make much difference. However, I ordered some Winchester today, and when it comes in, I will try that. I do believe, that as some of you have said that the ammo is underpowered, so it recoils enough for cocking but not to grab the sear or whatever part it needs to grab, then bolt goes forward to "snap" off another round. Never happened before but whatever. Anyway that's the main problem. The other would be to find a competent TSMG smith to check it out in the Flordia area. Anybody know of anyone? If so, please pass the name on to me. I have replaced the buffer rod with GI spec, but I think replacing things in the trigger housing like springs and parts may be a bit beyond my expertise. So if you know a smith, please pass it on. #2, I noticed that in firing with AO or other stick mags that it will sometimes chamber a round but not fire it. Every time this happens it is a stick mag and the round that is on the left siide of the stick mag. Right side feeds fine, and 50 rd, drums work like a dream, of course, they feed straight ahead. My question is, Would it be advisable to just polish, I mean just polish the feed ramp a bit with a dremel tool. Anyone think that might help a bit? The mags are AO or Seymour so I know they are in spec. Thanks

Thanks to all for your responses. It is appreciated. I now have another, different WWII actauator in there and will try it out in case there may have been somethng wrong with the first one. If it stutters on semi wth the milled actuator I will change back to see it it does so with the heavier cast one, using the same ammo both times. It may be what some of you had said, but I don't see why it would suddenly start sturttering on semi the very first time I took it out with the lighter, but milled, actuator. That's too much of a coincidende to be a coincidence. I'll let you all know my results, and take a few more shots if the problem is still there after renge testing. Thanks for your help. Bounty1

Hi Group, Maybe you can help me with this or at least help me understand it. I have a WH 1928A1 TSMG that came with a "cast" actuator. I read an article about a year ago saying that if you had a "cast" actuator, it would be better to replace it with a "milled" one, because the "cast" actuator was actually 2 pieces, the body, and the knob was screwed to that. According to the article, there may eventually be some metal fatigue or cracking and the actuator knob on the cast versiion could come flying off and injure shooter or bystanders, so it would be better to get a "milled" one which is forged and machined, and is one solid piece. I did that. Here's the problem; The cast actuator weighs 9.6 oz. The milled actuator, from a WWII TSMG weighs 7.2 oz. With the lighter (milled) actuator, the firearm will sometimes "double" or even "triple" when firing semi-auto. No problem with full. If anything, I'd think it would work better with a lighter actuator than a heavier one, but that's not the case. I will have to switch back to the "cast" actuator to get proper functioning, but I can undestand the benefit of having a one-piece forged actuator rather than a two-piece cast one. Anybody have any ideas as to why this lighter actuator would be giving me problems? Thanks

This is off the subject of Thompsons but about the process for leaving the guns after I've gone to the big gun range in the sky. I don't have anyone in my family interested in having several full-autos and suppressors, and I don't want to leave it to them, and have them spend the money on crap. They have enough. I would like the guns and suppressors to go to a dealer who could then sell them to somebody who would appreciate the chance to buy it, and the proceeds would then go to charity per my wishes. Now, is this true or not? ATF told me this morning that I must designate in my will a person who will receive these items, a "personal representative" as it is called in Florida. Right now that would be my attorney. That person then has to fill out a Form 5 (non-taxable transfrer etc.). This would include fingerprints, photos, background check, etc. I haven't seen the Form 5 yet. If my attorney does it, there may not be anything to donate to charity once the lawyers go through this process. So the question is: Is this my only way of doing this, or is there some way to get it to certified Class III dealer w/o all the headache and expense? Naturally, I could always sell them myself before, but I want them until I'm gone. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks for the suggestions made thus far. I'll take all into consideration, and I'll try talking to another dealer. I talked to Mendiola in Miami and he said it's not that much of a problem, but I'd rather hear how the ATF sees it. He information didn't square with what the dealer said. Yes, I have considered giving them to a good friend, but they are all about as old as I am. If I did that then their kids would either let them rust away or sell it and buy crappy stuff just like a few people in my family. And, I'd rather keep them 'til I'm gone, but one thing is certain, I don't want the ATF to put the "chop" on them over some technicality. Thanks Anyone else familiar with this sort of problem, please advise.

This is off the subject of Thompsons but about the process for leaving the guns after I've gone to the big gun range in the sky. I don't have anyone in my family interested in having several full-autos and suppressors, and I don't want to leave it to them, and have them spend the money on crap. They have enough. I would like the guns and suppressors to go to a dealer who could then sell them to somebody who would appreciate the chance to buy it, and the proceeds would then go to charity per my wishes. Now, is this true or not? ATF told me this morning that I must designate in my will a person who will receive these items, a "personal representative" as it is called in Florida. Right now that would be my attorney. That person then has to fill out a Form 5 (non-taxable transfrer etc.). This would include fingerprints, photos, background check, etc. I haven't seen the Form 5 yet. If my attorney does it, there may not be anything to donate to charity once the lawyers go through this process. So the question is: Is this my only way of doing this, or is there some way to get it to certified Class III dealer w/o all the headache and expense? Naturally, I could always sell them myself before, but I want them until I'm gone. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Mission Accomplished: Re: WH that I have. After getting so much good advice on the forums out here, I decided to send the parts to "reconbob" of Phila. O to check it out. He found some parts slightly out of tolerence, and also that the upper rec'r was not perfectly square. But I had had no problems with that before, i.e., everything always functioned well with no apparant wear etc. Bottom line is that he was able to correct the problem, test fire OK, and return to me within 10 days. If it ever needs more than this tweaking, I will send it to PK. I will be able to get it out to the range sometime in the next 2 weeks, and don't expect any problems, but will make a post when I do. All I can say is that Bob did a really nice job, and got the problem resolved in a short period of time. For that I am really appreciative and give him a big "thumbs up" for handling this. I expect he may post something regarding this as to "what" it was he actually found and did, and will mention in a bit more detail than I am able to do, but he did a great job. Thanks again, Bob.

I am getting some really great information from all of you. Timkel: I checked the rails on my WH, and yes, they are as square as can be. I may try stoning that lightly and see what happens but I will wait to see if there are any more posts as to the possible problem. I will have to take a look at the photo that was mentioned by "mnshooter" also before proceeding with anything. thanks again for the input.

To Jim C 251. Thanks for your input, but me and the checking of dimensions I would rather leave to someone else. I can barely change the oll in my car. So I will wait and talk to them. The big problem is not getting the lower back on, it's getting it off that's a bitch. I don't have a workshop to do this stuff, and I'd rather leave it to someone who has done this before. I have no doubt your suggestion is correct, but unfortunately, I'm not the person to be trusted to do it. Thanks for your input Bounty1,,

Thanks again to all for your input. What you have said, essentially, is that my frame to receiver fit is "off" a little unless the frame is bowwed. (sp). I don't think that's the case. It has been a really good shooter for many years, and naturally I baby it as do all TSMG owners even if it is a WH. It has never jammed a round or given a feeding or firing problem through thusands of rounds, but taking it apart for cleaning is a real chore. I will check with PK (PK, please provide email address) and "reconbob" (also provide email address) so we can discuss this. I will be out of town after 6/13 thru 6/28, so will not be able to "ship" to anyone until I return. Thanks again, and PK and RECONBOB, please provide me with your email addresses.

thanks to all for your input. Yes, I already can see the wear marks on the frame where the fit is tight. I tried using some very fine files to take some of the metal off, but that didn't seem to improve things much. My worry about using some "grit" to smooth things up is that it is "soooo" tight, that I'm afraid if I put a little abrasive on the rails and try this, that I may not be able to get it off at all. I also want to have this in shape for the S &S in Indiana in October, so no delay would be greatly helpful to my worry factor. I may wait until after that to have this work done to keep my anxiety level down. BTW - It has always been this way since day 1, so I'm sure it was a sloppy job of machining. I will be in touch with Bob of Phila to discuss this tomorrow. Thanks to all for your input.

I have a WH that has been fine in every respect except one. The bottom and top part of the rec'r fit way too tight.. There is no way I can just slide off the rear grip portion from the top portion. I need to use a wooden block and a rubber mallet and pound it off from the front of the trigger guard after the front grip has been removed.for cleaning and to field strip it for whatever reason and takes about 15 "whacks".. Obviously it is "out-of-spec". I know PK could fix this, but he seems to have quite a waiting period, and I don't want to have to wait 2 years or so to get it back.. Is there anyone else anyone knows who could do this work, or any other suggestions to get this resolved? Thanks