dieselten

I will trade you a complete excellent condition M1 bolt with pins and spring and hammer for an excellent-mint condition M1A1 fixed firing pin bolt. If yours has extractor so will mine. Nick Dieselten AT hotmail.com (replace AT with @)

you got 2 or 3 springs with the kit (mine had 3). Choose the stiff one. If you can not tell the difference then just try them all. Use CCI Minimag solid tip (non hollow point) ammo. It will run perfect as long as your Thompson is in spec.

took mine out for a full test drive today. I fired 300 rounds of CCI Minimag using a slightly shortened recoil spring from my spare parts inventory. It ran great. 2 jams in 300 rounds. 1 failure to fire (round was fully chambered) 1 failure to feed which could have been a failure to extract as it tried to load a new round on top of a loaded round in the chamber. Rate of fire was way better (slower) than my old Ceiner M16 kit. I could pull a single about 75% of the time. I then changed to the weak/soft spring that came with the kit. Did not clean. Put my last 15 rounds of CCI Minimag into a magazine and dumped the whole thing. It sounded like a grease gun! Noticeably slower rate of fire. No jams (in 15 rounds). I then put 3 rounds of Wolf Target ammo in a mag and tried it. It would chamber and fire the first round and then stove pipe the empty. I will try some CCI standard velocity or CCI subsonic to try and avoid a ballistic crack and perhaps even slow the ROF down some more. All in all very happy.

dieselten Does you safety lever work in the open bolt, firing position? yes

received my kit today. fit perfect in my West Hurley M1. Will not function with the weak spring. Heavy spring will function CCI Minimag but not standard velocity ammo. Probably needs to break in. I will break it in with the heavy spring and CCI Minimag (the most powerful & consistent 22 ammo) This thing really needs a new muzzle nut with 1/2 x 28 threads to use with a suppressor. Does anyone know a name, email, web site, or phone number for a source to get a threaded muzzle nut???

is it doubling on SEMI? Or is the selector on FULL AUTO? If it is on full auto maybe your finger is just not fast enough to pull a single??

My M1 does the same thing. I think it is a weak spring in the 30 rounder not putting as much pressure on the trip

1.6"

thanks guys. PK I am on your list, you will be the lucky one to do it!

I have a WH M1. The rear sight is riveted in place. I have heard that the rear sight holes are actually threaded. Can anyone substantiate this? And if so, what is the thread size? Thanks for any help.

If it is a fixed GI sight then you could bend it to either side to adjust for windage. If it is the adjustable GI 1928 (Lyman) sight then it should be adjustable for windage.

Thanks Jim Do you think there is actually any battering going on with a mag installed even if I can feel ZERO end play?

I have a WH M1 full auto. I use two different WWII lowers from parts kits. One lower shows no end play (with or without a magazine) and slides on nice and snug. The other lower slides on easy and has about .027" end play with no magazine installed. If I install a magazine there is zero end play or some barely noticeable end play if I put some muscle on it, depends on the magazine used. I have also tried different take down plungers and this does not make a difference. Two questions Is there a spec for acceptable end play with or without a magazine & what is it? Should I be concerned about my setup when using the "looser" lower? Thanks

I bought the highest quality WWII 1928A1 parts kit from IMA about a year ago. I never got a 1928, I got a M1A1 so I would like to trade some of the parts for M1A1 parts. I am only interested in FULL AUTO parts of WWII Military Contractor manufacture in similar condition to my 1928 parts, which means new or like new. NO West Hurley manufactured parts. I have for trade as a group: 1928A1 stripped bolt 1928A1 knurled actuator 1928A1 Blish lock 1928A1 ejector 1928A1 oiler assembly 1928A1 recoil rod w/buffer all parts as pictured. All parts are rounded "S" stamped, except the knurled actuator which is square "S" stamped. All parts appear excellent to new condition. I would like: M1A1 bolt complete (fixed firing pin & extractor, I do not want a M1 bolt with floating firing pin) M1A1 cocking knob new unused uncut recoil spring M1A1 ejector (it is a little different than a 1928) M1A1 recoil spring rod I would like to make a straight up trade for the described parts. I do not want to split anything up or sell anything, just an even trade. Face to face in DFW would be convenient. easiest way to get me is by email: dieseltenAThotmail.com (replace AT with @) Thanks!! Nick http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l175/dieselten/DSC00400.jpg

thanks for the replies! I am confused about bullet weight/ROF. I do know for a fact that a stronger recoil spring will INCREASE the ROF everything else being equal. I would think that by using a load with a lower recoil impulse (lighter bullet/powder charge) you would slow down the rearward cycle time and the lower recoil impulse might even allow the use of a weaker recoil spring which I know will reduce the ROF. Phil, if possible, would you please supply your recipe of handload/recoil spring combination that would allow a ROF in the 6-700 RPM range with a M1A1 (no Blish lock)? I am not interested in any modifications to the bolt or receiver - only handloads/recoil springs. Thanks very much