CoryT

We did do a C drum dump as well from the '21. We have a number of angles and quite a lot of Phantom footage of both the Tommy and the 1911, some at as much as 7000 frames per second. The TSMG is my live gun, the short BAR and 1911 are blank fire only from the Public Enemies film, courtesy of my friend Larry Zanoff at Independent Studio Services. This was the first time we were forced to use blanks for any of the firing sessions on Gun Stories. The BAR could have been made to live fire, but it would have cause logistical issues requiring a special plug for blanks, that's not good in the rental business. The 1911 is FA only, and with the locking lugs removed is blanks only. We did some live fire with my full size live BAR to augment the blank gun segments. There is plenty of '28 footage available from the TSMG episode as well. There will be some nice closeups of the '21 in a complete FBI hard case and some comparison shots of the full size BAR and the shorty. Some great episodes on tap for this year!

http://www.facebook.com/GunsiteAcademy/videos/10154450630399453/ Just a little teaser on this season of Gun Stories. We finished filming on Saturday, headed to editing! Cory Trapp Gunsite Academy, Inc.

I just ran across an XX magazine with the late 'corrected' patent date markings in quite good condition, no rust at all, just some finish wear. It's the only one I've ever seen except in photographs, just how rare and desirable are these? Any special value, or should I just put it in the '21's hard case? Cory Trapp Gunsite Academy, Inc.

I don't know if you got my email, but yes, I'd be very interested in those parts.

No setscrew hole, but otherwise it has the same markings.

I've got a very good condition Cutts that has never been drilled for the pin, but it only has the Thompson bullet logo/trademark on the top front, no Cutts markings. Is this just a new Auto-Ord part, or is this an original type? I don't see it in American Thunder (3rd edition).

I'm looking for a 1921 spring and pilot to demonstrate on occasion. I also need a blueprint of the actuator or someone who will modify a '28 actuator I have on hand. Repro's are fine of course. Any one have a source? Cory Trapp Gunshots Academy, Inc.

Another issue has cropped up. The print I received indicates the front edge of the Blish lock slot to be 3.869 from the front edge of the receiver. This does not jive with the front edge of the bolt slot at 3.683. My bolt measures aprox .365 from the hammer stop edge to the edge of the lock slot. Scribing the lines on the receiver at the drawing measurement and placing the bolt over the lines with the lock lined up puts the front edge of the bolt into the mag well. It appears the correct front edge position would be approx 4.05. I got this measuring the bbl tenon stop surface and the length of the bolt nose. This gets me within a few thou of the 3.683 for the front edge of the bolt channel, that would appear correct. Can someone confirm this? I think Doug Richardson will be at the SAR show, I'll be down there either Fri or Sun and maybe I can get an Ordnance print. CT

That occured to me as well. I thought that the key cutter approach would be more accurate, as it creates the full profile, plus I'm automatically depth limited by the shank of the cutter. Scribing those lines inside tha receiver seems a bit on the tricky side. I've got some 1/4" mills long enough for this, so it might be the way to go. Did you use the same method to cut the extractor slot? That does not seem to be marked on the print. Sam Alvarez made up a broach for this, I may send it to him unless you have a better idea. At least the extractor slot is just a clearance cut, the dimensions would not be super critical. CT

OK, got the Phil Ord receiver in the mill, cut the main slot for the bolt and filed the Form 2. Now for the hard part. The undercut and relief in the bolt channel is simple and straightforward. The Blish 45 degree cut is a poser. If my math works out, a 1" diameter .250 Woodruff key cutter should work. At 45 degrees, the cutter edge should just touch the top of the receiver and put the cutter center .350 low. That's .1 below the relief cut for the acuator. The finish cuts to open the bolt channel to 1.560 should clean that up. Anybody do this before? What am I missing? I suppose I can test this in profile on a scrap bar, but I thought I'd ask here before wasting too much time. Cory Trapp Gunsite Academy, Inc. (928) 636 4565

I'm looking for the correct rivets for a 1928A1 rear sight, anyone have a source or spec? Cory Trapp Gunsite Academy, Inc. (928) 636 4565