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DFisch

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Everything posted by DFisch

  1. The Numrich drum and the West Hurley drum are the same thing, correct?
  2. Or the solid axis pin. It looks like the Numrich drum shown in the Box And Drum Magazine Guide on this forum. The pictures of C-drums in TUTB show neither the ribs nor the solid axis pin.
  3. I dont think original C drums had the reinforcing ridges or ribs on the front and rear plates.
  4. I'm looking to fill the four slots of a police case with correct Colt-era XX magazines. Either Blank or the Patent date version is OK, but I'd prefer at least one of the four to be a Blank. I'd like reasonably nice specimens to show since they probably won't get used much. Since I still have plenty time to look (I haven't found my Colt gun yet), for the time being I'm going to avoid the Maguire-era magazines (both the "correct" and "incorrect" patent dates). Does any have any extras they'd like to get rid of, or know where to find decent Colt XX box mags? Thanks in advance for any help! doug
  5. Someone on Youtube has a home made 50-rd box mag... www.youtube.com/watch?v=9spzqY4PxOM
  6. I bought one of the Taiwanese L-drums from Numrich, and at the time the general concensus on the Board was they should be greased. I greased mine and it works fine, although that's anedotal evidence. Admittedly, the grease is more of a long-term maintenance item; I doubt a lubrication problem would show up in the near term, greased or not.
  7. Not sure how q.com works (never heard of it until your mention of it), so I'll just send a check to the address in your first e-mail. Thanks! d
  8. Sorry I'm so late to the party! Do you still have any grip mounts available? Sorry to disturb the whole forum, but I couldn't find where to PM you. Thanks!
  9. Also - Am I correct in thinking it is fine for use? Should I grease it like I did the repro L-drum, just to make sure it has proper lubrication? This may sound kinda silly, but since I don't have a gun to use them in yet, would someone at the TCA shoot in September be willing to try out this and my repro drum to make sure they function correctly? And no, this isn't a trick question (though I'm sure it sounds like one); I'd feel better knowing they work. d
  10. Well, I ended up buying the L Drum from my friend so now I'm wondering what amount of "restoration" is typical/desired. There are a couple of dents in the cover and discoloration of the rotor. I've only cleaned the oily dirt from the inside using gun oil and rags, but no solvent yet. I'm not sure if I want to fix it up too much since I sort of like the look of the patina from its life of use. My friend thinks the drum may have been used in a prison decades ago when his G-father worked in one. I didn't want to try solvent yet since I can't "un-use" it if it defaces the rotor. I'm not too worried about the body and cover as they have the normal finish that solvent shouldn't hurt. The drum seems quite sturdy compared to the Taiwan repro drum I have. Thoughts? Thanks! d
  11. Is there a general concensus on the value of a NY drum in this condition (assuming the spring is OK)? Thanks in advance for your help! d
  12. He mustve said AAA. Youre right: AA doesnt fit.
  13. He leaves the cover off and stands them vertically in the spirals.
  14. I think he uses it for a AA battery holder. Sad but true.
  15. I have a friend who was given an L Drum by his father or grandfather. I asked him for some pictures so I could identify it and get an idea as to value. This forum seems just the place. From what I gather, it appears to be a "1st Gen Worcester Pressed Steel drum" (TUTB), or shown in the Drum Magazine Guide on this forum as a "3rd Model New York Drum". Maybe they're the same thing. The detail of the lettering (such as the comma between "N.Y." and "U.S.A." and the clipped "A" in "PATENTED") along with other items drives me towards that model. The winding key has "301" stamped on it, though what that may mean I don't know (Originally on Drum No. 301?). There are a lot smarter people than I on this Board (nearly everyone) so I was hoping for some confirmation as to what my friend has. Value maybe? Thanks in advance for any input! Doug
  16. I'd be intersted in a cover for my book, too, if you have them available! The one that is on my book is a bit worn. Thanks!
  17. Silly question for today based on anjong-ni's post: What kind of tool did the OEM (Colt, AOC, Savage) use to install the barrel without leaving marks?
  18. It has been cancelled according to the TCA website.
  19. Thanks, Mike! I’m starting to feel bad with everyone tearing their guns apart just to check the springs! It’s interesting to see the difference in the free length of the four springs even though the coil count is the same. Of course 100 years of compression could easily have that effect. Thanks again for everyone’s help! I love this forum! Doug
  20. I have to correct my original post in that the Amateur Guide says the 28N spring is slightly shorter, not longer as I stated (which makes sense based on coil count). Sorry for the error. I blame senility.
  21. Just to keep things interesting, I guess, the firing pin spring for No.133 shown on page 16 of the Amateur's Guide appears to have 31 coils. #133 had to have been manufactured prior the Sept 21, 1921 drawing rev 2 (30 coils). Maybe Colt was less concerned about coils than the overall length (which is reasonable since length, spring rate, and solid height are the most important characteristics)? Just trying to figure out the 30 vs. 32 coil question. The reason I ask is that while I haven't bought a gun (yet), when I do I want to make sure I know the correct spring for a spare parts kit depending on if I get a 21 (preferred) or an Overstamp. Yes, I know the Herigstad metal box and brushes I have are not original, but parts for the gun itself I would want to be as correct as possible. Thanks again for any advice for Me the Novice! Doug
  22. I'm pretty new to the forum, so please excuse me if this is a silly question. I've been pouring through Mr. Davis' Amateur Guide (since I'm even less than an amateur) and on pg 141 it mentions the 1921 firing pin spring is 32 coils vs 30 for the 28N and that the 28N spring is longer (though no length was mentioned). Referring to the Spring detail print (rev 2 dated Sept 1, 1921) on page 93 of Mr. Hill's Ultimate Guide, it shows that the spring is 30 coils of .031" music wire with a free length of 2.50 +/- 0.050". Which is the correct number of coils, or did it vary in production? It seems a difference of two coils is quite a bit and at 12 coils/in, that would equate to a difference of 0.167" which is over 3X the allowable tolerance on the print. Sorry for getting into the minutiae and thanks in advance for any help! Doug
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