Jeremy

Wonder how long it took him to rust it up before he restored it?

Lol no... screwed the GM barrel in turned around and saw the 1/2" bar on the bench. Said dang....oh well next time maybe. I already have vertical and horizontal 3/4" fore ends so no worries there.

Agreed...get a green mountain barrel and don't look back.

Got a WH '28 awhile back for a decent price. KW commemorative version... lightly used so removed the "bling" and it looks GI now. However it always had some fail to fire issues... tried different mags and many fail to feed/fire issues however drums ran 100% because it fed directly into the chamber. Step two..got a GM barrel. Step three... Remove WH barrel....good lord they used three gallons on loctite on that thing. Installed new GM barrel with NO loctite. Reassembled... Grabbed a magazine I knew that had feed issues. Brrrp.. dumped the mag. Tried again...no issues. Need to shoot it some more but I think the GM barrel has fixed my issue. Also of note... prior to this the gun was properly greased and oiled and ran about 775rpm. New GM barrel and running it dry I hit 870rpm! It has a Wolff recoil spring in it as well. Added pics of the WH barrel next to a USGI barrel. You can see a shelf/corner/angle whatever that was causing my problems. I have ammo with a sharp crease in the brass from that on the rounds that didn't fully seat/fire. WH barrel on right. Note sharp corner.

Ok...more info. Got a savage actuator and compared it to my original WH and the Waffenmeister. The WH has been ground quite a bit to obviously clear the hammer and inner bolt areas. The Waffenmeister is close to the USGI in contour but it's still a little proud if you compare. Off to the grinder tomorrow to match the USGI contour.

Sorry don't have any original ones to compare the wear to. This is a waffenmeister actuator...I have the receipt. not sure it's the receiver as from everything I see the actuator rides in the bolt. All of these wear marks are from the bolt hitting the actuator. Seeing as I have impact marks from the hammer on the front of it I'm guessing that's part of my lite strike issues as well. Looks like I have some tweaking to do ...

Put one in my WH and pulled everything apart after a few hundred (?) rounds and noticed some wear. Is this typical for the actuator to wear here? Should it have that much wear from the hammer? I'm occasionally getting a light strike on a almost completely closed bolt could this be the cause? Bolt is savage and lock is AOC.

No one told me I couldn't..lol I was trouble shooting some feed issues between sticks and the drum and only wanted to test a few rounds at a time.

UPDATE: Took it apart today and removed the rotor just to look at it all. Reassembled it and by golly it worked. Didn't have much time but loaded 5 rounds and gave it 3 clicks and it dumped them all in one short burst. So no clue what happened. Maybe the rotor hung up on the notches in the drum?

well...time to break out the dremel and do some surgery I guess...lol

Got one of the waffenmeister drums for my WH '28 and used it a few times. Never a full 50 rounds but 20 or so as I was just showing some friends and test firing etc. Went to shoot it again yesterday and loaded about 20 rounds and put the cover on and started to wind it and it "clicked" as I turned the key but never put any tension on the rounds. So is it broken or am I? LOL

I'm getting the case scratch/dent that seems to indicate chamber mouth is the issue. Bolt closed and a small dimple on the primer. New Wolff recoil spring. Haven't changed the firing pin/spring/hammer as it's seems i'm not getting fully into battery because of the chamber. Yes some 30s are picky. They have new wolff springs as well and that helped. At this point I think it's the chamber that is my biggest hurdle.

Glad to see this post. Exact same issue with my WH '28. I'll be pulling the barrel and tweaking the chamber or installing a USGI one if I can find it.