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I bought a used West Hurley a while back and finally started to strip it down completely. Well I noticed the Sear Block has a small chunk taken out of it and also the disconnector is rusting along with being pitted really bad and I am guessing from lack of cleaning and maintenance from previous owners. From the looks of this Tommy Gun it had a hard life and lot of rounds put through it and was never dissembled and cleaned. Does anyone have a Sear Block and a Disconnector they are willing to part with? Please pm me pictures of what you have and the price. I do not want any Kahr parts at all. Prefer older G.I. parts if they exist. I will only be able to pay via Credit Card. Thank you for your time.

In order to comply with a BATF transfer info request we need to take some pix of a West Hurley 1928 FA - buyer already picked up buttstock and is out of the country so need to locate another one to borrow just long enough to mate to gun and take some pix and then send right back - loan, buy, etc - time is of the essence - or lacking the whole buttstock , the plate/latch assbly would be fine as we have several stripped stocks So, if anyone can help please email: cs@medeacorporation.com or just call me 386-672-4574 (but in and out all the time) - we'd be glad to pay a "rental" fee and shipping (priority overnight/2nd day, etc) or just buy it Thanks for any help!

Hello everyone and thank you for letting me join the forum. I am a small shop owner and recently a customer brought in a West Hurley M1 semi auto carbine, that judging by the serial number was made in 1989. Problem is the gun has a cracked bolt face. Guy bought a SMG bolt to replace it but that obviously wont work. I contacted Mr. Block and he graciously advised me on how to go about replacing the bolt and also the other items that should be addressed to make it a reliable shooter. The issue is the customer wanted to repair the gun and then sell it. Frankly I think he might be money ahead just to sell it as is. Other then the bolt issue the gun is in decent shape, he has a boat load of mags with it too. I dunno how to best advise him. Was wondering what you all think? Thanks ahead for any response.

Hello all! Newer member here (less than 6 months) but first time poster. Last fall I traded some work, sight unseen, for an old beat up, rusty (and broke as I later discovered) circa 1979 West Hurley 1927A1. At the time, I knew next to nothing about 'Tommys' other than they being one of the more iconic firearm designs. Being a big fan of C&R milsurps – especially US WW1 & WW2 milsurps – I jumped on the deal. The gun was wrapped up in a plastic bag and covered with motor oil. Upon cleaning it off, it was obvious why someone poured oil on it - the entire gun’s exterior was rusty. Tearing it apart to inspect the internals, I noticed that the bolt carrier had a major crack in it as well. After finding Douglas Richardson's website and trading a few phone calls with him, I had a replacement bolt carrier inbound. As the laws here in Cali were changing year end and not wanting to tap the receiver to install a bullet button, I temporarily bubba’d it up to comply with the new BS laws (Temp bubba = grip wrap on pistol grip and replaced the vertical forward grip with a horizontal grip). Now looking rough but ready, I hit the range and gave her a work out. All I say is ‘Wow’ - what fun it is to shoot the Thompson – even if just a rusted up SA version of it! Now, even though I technically have the Thompson hole in my humble collection filled, it is with an example that has a rough finish and sporting a neutered look = the more I look at it the less I am satisfied. I now intend to refinish the rifle and would like to get it to a less neutered look. Can’t decide if I want to blast and re-blue it to keep the classic 1927A1 look, or send it off to a gunsmith to shorten the barrel, blast and park it and possibly modify it to be more similar to the WW2 M1 look which is more in line with my interests in US milsurps. As my knowledge of all things Thompson is limited, I thought it time to make my formal appearance here and to engage and participate with this community and to hopefully glean some of the cognoscenti’s wealth of knowledge on all things Thompson. Reading up on the various threads, it seems like the member ‘Deerslayer’ is the ‘go-to’ Tommy gunsmith for this kind of work. I also see that he is offering a modification to make Cali based Thompsons comply with the new laws by breaking the action to drop the mag. This interests me as I would then be able to get rid of the awful grip wrap. Has any California based members hired him to perform this service? I appreciate any tips or recommendations members can give. Again, greetings all... -Randy

Good morning all: I sold a 27a5 pistol from the 70s (west hurley vintage ) and the buyer says the magazine falls out when he shoots it. He also said the mag catch hole was egg shaped which is common when people alter GI mags. It does lock in however. But when he shoots it, the mag falls out of the gun Does anyone know if a current auto ordnance mag from the Kahr company with fit correctly or should the buyer take a GI mag and keep enlarging the hole to fit? If he does enlarge it....does he need to enlarge it toward the feed lip or toward the bottom or both? Thanks for any input regards Haris

I have been trouble shooting my M1 West Hurley for a while. The seller reported the gun was re-finished (parkerized and GI parts) in the 1990s by a smith named Gerald Macdonald of Selma AL. Supposedly ran perfectly, with the “Hurley bugs” worked out. Upon receiving the weapon I found all parts were GI except the barrel, upper, lower frame, and magazine catch. The gun suffers from fail to fire (light or no primer strikes) on occasion. This is worse with certain magazines. Semi mode suffers from these failures more often. Admittedly some of this could be from shooter inexperience with open bolt guns, but it seems to happen enough where I suspect the bolt is getting an abnormal amount of friction some where. I have been slowly replacing parts in an effort to find the problem. The gun came with a GI M1A1 savage bolt. A M1 bolt did not solve the problem. A NOS recoil spring (notably about an inch longer than what was in the gun) did not help. I replaced all the lower parts. The bolt used to get stuck forward in semi mode, a new rocker seemed to have fixed that issue (of note is the old rocker had a lot more “slop” to it – the old one was GI. The new one is more solid so the old must have been worn). I finally picked up a GI mag catch and had it parkerized to match the gun. I replaced the catch (and learned that catch spring is a pain to remove) and found the mags now sit higher in the lower, and the mags will not seat when the gun is assembled. The WH mag catch appears to have some filing around the catch protrusion so I suspect this was hand filed to make the mags seat reliable. Below I have included some recorded dimensions in hopes that someone with more experience could confirm if my GI mag catch is within tolerance. I think the problem might be the mag catch hole location in the WH lower. Last year while trouble shooting at a local shoot, board member “mnshooter” allowed me to try using the M1 complete GI lower from one of his guns. That lower functioned flawlessly with my WH upper (and the mags seated reliably). If anyone has a stripped GI M1 lower I would be interested in purchasing it. Sending to PK is on the radar if I can’t get this going on my own, but I think I am close to the remedy. Here are some pics of related dimensions, taken with a dial caliper (comparing WH to GI catch): http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag143/kb0uxv/lower%20hole_zpsrolfhbl5.jpg http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag143/kb0uxv/LATCHES_zpssdzha1q0.jpg http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag143/kb0uxv/LATCHES3_zpsiawmekao.jpg http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag143/kb0uxv/LATCHES2_zpsnbj5yevl.jpg