M1918a3 Wwii/korea War Accurate?

[usmc1488]

I just received my m1918a3, and wow what a beauty! I’m a history buff, and my gun collection consists of weapons that are as historically correct as possible. For example, I have numbers matching Springfield M1s from WWII and Korea (WWII has new wood however), (2) semi auto M14s built on LRB forge receivers with USGI TRW parts. So for my BAR I want to make sure that I have as many USGI parts as possible. As a newer BAR from OOW it has a new barrel and obviously receiver. How can I tell if the trigger group, buffer, bolt, slide, and gas system are USGI? There are gas systems on one of the gun auction web pages, I can purchase one if the one I have isn’t USGI, but I’ll have to open the holes up. OK thanks for looking!

[RoscoeTurner]

Rock in a Hard Place - James Ballou. This book will answer many of your questions.

 

http://www.collectorgrade.com/bookshelf7.html

[usmc1488]

Rock in a Hard Place - James Ballou. This book will answer many of your questions.

 

http://www.collectorgrade.com/bookshelf7.html

 

Thank you, got one on order from an online book store. Can anyone aid in pointing me in the correct direction while I wait please?

[emmagee1917]

Well , if the bolt is bright , it is prob'ly a foreign one. They use those because they have a small diam. firing pin which helps prevent pierced primers in commercial primers , which tend to be softer/thinner than USGI ball. The Gi bolt is usually a drop in replacement , you just have to check your headspace. I put a GI one in mine and I had to file the pad that locks into the hump a hair ( more of a polish job , really) to get the headspace. It does work with GI ball , but does cause commercial ones to flow back some. The reason people exchange them is some guns seem to break the thinner firing pins ( mine never has) , and they are harder ( more $$$ ) to get than GI ones. The only thing you have to do if you change is transfer the rear block assmly with the built in semi auto hammer/firing pin link and cut the rear block portion of the GI firing pin off and polish to get proper firing pin extention .

The trigger group is not GI , in that that is where most of the semi-auto conversion has taken place. The housing has been modified to add the hammer and all , and to require the extra holding pin so a FA group won't drop in. If you know the M1 Carbine , you'll see where it comes from.

The rate reducer parts in the buttstock serve no purpose in a semi-only and so are left out. It does no harm to have them in , and they are prob'ly left out to please BATF , but you can add them if you wish. Remember , they had to get BATF approval to convert a basic open-bolt MG design to a closed bolt semi design , so anything that held the bolt to the rear was deleated from the new design ( which kinda sucks , because holding the bolt back for cleaning , safety , and reloading mags is a good thing).

The rest of the parts tend to be USGI , but this will change as they dry up , same as the M1 carbine mfgs had to do. You noted the bbl as an example. The other thing , however , is the period you are trying to portray. I'm going for early WW2 , so I've replaced the forward handguard and gas adjuster with early / pre war parts and next will be the buttstock group , to duplicate an A2 converted from an earlier model.

HTH , Chris

[usmc1488]

Well , if the bolt is bright , it is prob'ly a foreign one. They use those because they have a small diam. firing pin which helps prevent pierced primers in commercial primers , which tend to be softer/thinner than USGI ball. The Gi bolt is usually a drop in replacement , you just have to check your headspace. I put a GI one in mine and I had to file the pad that locks into the hump a hair ( more of a polish job , really) to get the headspace. It does work with GI ball , but does cause commercial ones to flow back some. The reason people exchange them is some guns seem to break the thinner firing pins ( mine never has) , and they are harder ( more $$$ ) to get than GI ones. The only thing you have to do if you change is transfer the rear block assmly with the built in semi auto hammer/firing pin link and cut the rear block portion of the GI firing pin off and polish to get proper firing pin extention .

The trigger group is not GI , in that that is where most of the semi-auto conversion has taken place. The housing has been modified to add the hammer and all , and to require the extra holding pin so a FA group won't drop in. If you know the M1 Carbine , you'll see where it comes from.

The rate reducer parts in the buttstock serve no purpose in a semi-only and so are left out. It does no harm to have them in , and they are prob'ly left out to please BATF , but you can add them if you wish. Remember , they had to get BATF approval to convert a basic open-bolt MG design to a closed bolt semi design , so anything that held the bolt to the rear was deleated from the new design ( which kinda sucks , because holding the bolt back for cleaning , safety , and reloading mags is a good thing).

The rest of the parts tend to be USGI , but this will change as they dry up , same as the M1 carbine mfgs had to do. You noted the bbl as an example. The other thing , however , is the period you are trying to portray. I'm going for early WW2 , so I've replaced the forward handguard and gas adjuster with early / pre war parts and next will be the buttstock group , to duplicate an A2 converted from an earlier model.

HTH , Chris

 

Great info Chris, thank you. Yes sir, I have a real bright bolt, I think ill get a USGI one just because, along with the gas regulator. Will the gas regulator screw right on? Im aware ill probably have to drill the holes out a bit. I know the guts of the trigger group are new but the actual outside assembly is new too????

 

So if I add the buffer parts that are missing my rifle will hold open at the last round? I think we'd be ok doing such as it doesnt make the weapon open bolt. Also some laws have changed, it used to be ilegal to instal a FA M16 bolt carrier in a AR15 now its legal.

 

And yes Im going for a WWII look.

 

[emmagee1917]

No , it will not hold open. When they were open bolt , the bolt , when it was set to slow fire , would hit those buttstock parts and be held to the rear. The plunger would be pushed down the buttstock , stop , and return. At the end of it's stroke , it would release the bolt to allow it to return forward. These parts are only useful in an open bolt full auto. That is why they are left out--no fuction , no need to buy. I just suspect BATF approval had a part in it , too. I also expect that is why there is no bolt hold open of any kind on it. Many buy and install the parts just to have them there , no problem either way.

I believe all regulators have the same thread , but some gas tubes had 3 notches on the end and the later ones only one. You have to be sure they match. I'll have to refresh myself on that. Yes , the ports will have to be drilled out , I have the measurements when needed.

They were using all the orig parts they could , inc. the trigger housing. This will change as parts dry up. The flat spring in the trigger assmly is also an orig part , but is now cut down and turned around .

Also , the WW2 bipod legs were inside out compared to the late war ones , and the screws were all at the top. I changed those too , but still have to refinish them to match.

Chris

[usmc1488]

No , it will not hold open. When they were open bolt , the bolt , when it was set to slow fire , would hit those buttstock parts and be held to the rear. The plunger would be pushed down the buttstock , stop , and return. At the end of it's stroke , it would release the bolt to allow it to return forward. These parts are only useful in an open bolt full auto. That is why they are left out--no fuction , no need to buy. I just suspect BATF approval had a part in it , too. I also expect that is why there is no bolt hold open of any kind on it. Many buy and install the parts just to have them there , no problem either way.

I believe all regulators have the same thread , but some gas tubes had 3 notches on the end and the later ones only one. You have to be sure they match. I'll have to refresh myself on that. Yes , the ports will have to be drilled out , I have the measurements when needed.

They were using all the orig parts they could , inc. the trigger housing. This will change as parts dry up. The flat spring in the trigger assmly is also an orig part , but is now cut down and turned around .

Also , the WW2 bipod legs were inside out compared to the late war ones , and the screws were all at the top. I changed those too , but still have to refinish them to match.

Chris

 

Chris,

Thank you again for the great info. I have a fealing that when I finish or make that we finish making our BARs WWII correct that we will almost enough parts for another. I dont think Ill spend the money on the extra buffer parts, it isnt like anyone can see it.

 

-Todd