usmc1488

They are are an authorized liscenced manufacturer so as long as they dont sell the full auto's to anyone other than a LE they will be ok.

Gents thanks for the replies and links. I usualy look at this site durring the work day and this is the only one that isnt blocked.

PS I appreciate the kind and patience that you gentlemen exhibit when it is obvious that I am ignorant on the subject. Nice forum.

Go ahead and build it anyway you want. If you later find out that what you did was outside of the permissible regulations you will see just how big a joke the penalties for doing so are. I do not wish to go down that route!!!!! Im sorry judging by some kind replies I received I didnt explain myslef clear enough. Id love to build a closed bolt semi from my open bolt and torched cut parts kit. Does anyone have a link or blue prints showing how to do this. I do not like the Autoordnance design.

Go ahead and build it anyway you want. If you later find out that what you did was outside of the permissible regulations you will see just how big a joke the penalties for doing so are. I do not wish to go down that route!!!!!

If you could point me in the direction of a "how to" on how this is perofrmed with an original cut receiver Id be forever indebted. I was under the assumption that a semi based on an old Full Auto receive and open bolt parts was impossible.

Thank you for the information.

Can some one please point me in the right direction on where to find information on the Hurley FA Thompsons. How close are they to an original, do GI parts work in them, are they worth the money etc??? Saving for a Class III weaponon, was looking at the Bm-59s but if I can a Thompson around 10,000 thatd be ideal.

Yes we have 45 in theatre. My team still used 1911's. As far as Navy and Marine Corps in concerend some Recon teams, Force, Seals, and the trigger pullers of MARSOC still cary 1911's. I had to trade 1000 rds of 45 for a one for one swap for 7.62x39.

Number one, stay a hard target and dont drop your guard until your home. Number two, regardless of origin if you found this durring a patrol, found after a fire fight, or was in the enemies hands it can be declared a war trophy. Go to your admin shop and inquire.

Great repplies and great info. Thank you very much gentlemen. As a gun colector with many weapons and hopefuly a career Marine I do not take this stuff lightly. I will contact the appropriate people and inform you gentlemen of the outcome. As till then a peice of our history lies in pieces in a box! These laws are jokes, guys can rebulid 1919's with 3/4 of the original receiver but I cant make a dummy gun.....

Bob, Good info, Ill write and let you know the outcome.

As a newbie to the Thompson world what on earth are we speaking of, a link will do just find? Id use search but I do not quite know what Im looking for.

NO I am not a manufacture by any means, I dont want to get a 80% receiver because the weapon looses all of its history. Just think, unless the receiver has been in a hot solevent tank it still has finger prints, dirt, grime, grease, sweat, and tears on it from WWII, Korea, and Vietnam. It'd be a shame to loose all of that. Its neat to hold it and imagine where it was, Chosin, Hue City, Germany....80% receivers just dont do it. PS Bob thank you, by the letter of the law you are 100% correct, thats why Im trying to figure out away to deam the reciever unoperable but together. Im thinking a spiked, shot out barrel welded to the receiver would do with the firing pin or hole welded in.

My new 1918a3 has been shooting about 6-9" too low at 100yds, nice groups though. I called OOW, told them my problem and the next day I had three new different height front sites! Great company. Its nice to know that some people still "get it". Their great customer service, quality products, and friendly atmosphere has influenced me to order a 1918 semi receiver to make a blued 1918 out of my parts kit.

Hey guys I know re-weld are a rough subjecr thats why I said legal and display only. I have WWII parts kit with a torch cut receiver (3 pieces), icanI re-weld it so all the parts fit and work ie (bolt moves) but internaly make it non functional like a welded up barrel or trigger? I saw on a forum a 1918 BAR done like this and like the idea. history is still preserved, it looks great on display and can not operate.

Chris, Thank you again for the great info. I have a fealing that when I finish or make that we finish making our BARs WWII correct that we will almost enough parts for another. I dont think Ill spend the money on the extra buffer parts, it isnt like anyone can see it. -Todd

Great info Chris, thank you. Yes sir, I have a real bright bolt, I think ill get a USGI one just because, along with the gas regulator. Will the gas regulator screw right on? Im aware ill probably have to drill the holes out a bit. I know the guts of the trigger group are new but the actual outside assembly is new too???? So if I add the buffer parts that are missing my rifle will hold open at the last round? I think we'd be ok doing such as it doesnt make the weapon open bolt. Also some laws have changed, it used to be ilegal to instal a FA M16 bolt carrier in a AR15 now its legal. And yes Im going for a WWII look.

I recal OOW sellling a m1918 that was blued, it was gorgeous. When were the BARs blued? Durring WWII, WWI, Korea????? I think I might have mine refinished. Does anyone here own one of the Blued OOW BARs? If you have any pics of BARs blued please post.

Thank you, got one on order from an online book store. Can anyone aid in pointing me in the correct direction while I wait please?

I just finished test firing my new M1918a3, wow what a great rifle. There is something about these old (new) steel and wood guns. My M1s and Semi M14s have a solid locomotive like feeling, smooth and precise in their actions. This BAR has the same exact feeling, locomotive smooth. The workmanship is top notch, the receiver is smooth, the internals don’t appear to have any undo or sloppy machining marks. Im not sure if the receiver is forged, I’d be very surprised if it isn’t. It appears to be cut from on giant piece of medal. The all wood stock, simply gorgeous. OOW even made a cusom S/N out of my MOS designation and added a EGA engraved on the top cover, gorgeous. I only shot 18rds from each magazine to check for functioning of the weapon and magazines. No issues. As an active duty Marine I’ve heard a lot that the M249 and M240 borrowed their gas system and bolt designs from the BAR albeit flipped over. Upon disassembly of the BAR to lube it up, I discovered this to be true. It was like looking at an old friend. It is a testament to John Browning that so many of his designs are still in use today by the military (1911, M2, and M249/M240). I’m saving for a FA M1918 of some sort USGI or not, until then this weapon will suit me just fine. Ill insert some pics when time allows.

I just received my m1918a3, and wow what a beauty! I’m a history buff, and my gun collection consists of weapons that are as historically correct as possible. For example, I have numbers matching Springfield M1s from WWII and Korea (WWII has new wood however), (2) semi auto M14s built on LRB forge receivers with USGI TRW parts. So for my BAR I want to make sure that I have as many USGI parts as possible. As a newer BAR from OOW it has a new barrel and obviously receiver. How can I tell if the trigger group, buffer, bolt, slide, and gas system are USGI? There are gas systems on one of the gun auction web pages, I can purchase one if the one I have isn’t USGI, but I’ll have to open the holes up. OK thanks for looking!

Hey guys just received my M1918 Bar from OOW. I just finished test firing it. AWESOME!!!!!!! Well I would like to give it a thorough cleaning and greasing. But now here is my question, how do I remove the but stock, how do I remove the the buffer assembly and make sure that all of the parts that are supposed to be there are? Thanks!!!! Pic to follow!