doc280

H and R manufactured front sights at different heights to make fixed adjustments. I purchased several when I got my model 60 and set the battle hold at 85 yards. Zero to 100 yard rear sight lowest setting all rounds in center mass. 400 yards, rear sight highest setting, rounds in man size target. I purchased four or five, all were different heights, if I recall correctly there was a website selling them with the heights listed.

I have 513 which is parked, no finns. It's 20 round magazine is parked also.

For what range? 50 yards.

These are my rifle settings.

I would completely disassemble the entire firearm to clean and lubricate everything. Old lubricant can become petrified. Reisings usually may not have the shortest trigger pull, but all the ones I have played with are very smooth.

Marlin mags work great.

I agree it does look short. Let me point out, not one of the pictures shows the top of the barrel,where the barrel meets the receiver or the chamber. Seeing these could provide insight to what is going on here.

This is good news, any chance of twenty rounders in the future?

I am not ashamed I paid $2500 shipped for my M60. She looked almost new and had never been field stripped, until I purchased it. She goes to the range,with me a lot now and I have got my monies worth from her.Being able to hit a steel man size target at 420 yards was cool. Robert

The firing pin spring is made of beryllium copper and is noncorrosive. Nice thing to have when using corrosive ammo, but beryllium copper springs loose their tensile strength more quickly than steel springs. My opinion is to replace firing pin spring, with a modern spring.

This is an early model 65, which has been modified to work and look like an MC58. The receiver had to be modified to accept the original MC58 parts. The MC58 parts were purchased at Numrich and the gunsmith work was performed by Aquilla Custom Gun Works. Cass, from another forum disassembled and took pictures of his MC58, so I could come up with the mods which were required to complete this rifle.

I have always thought it strange the Model 65, 165, 150, 151 and MC58 (the .22’s) have a lock washer, retaining the screw and the Model 50, 55 and 60 do not. The exploded views and parts list confirm this. A loose screw will effect feeding first and then the magazine will fall out. I thought about using a lock washer, as the screw appears long enough to do this, but decided to try a little blue Loctite and all has been good.

Short answer is..... yes.

My Model 60 also has the P, followed by a light struck S, on the barrel.

Bolt Mod 50- White Mod 55 - White Mod 65 - White Mod 165 - Blue Mod 150 - White Mod 151 - White Mod MC58 - White Trigger will match the guns finish. Mod 50 - Blue or Park Mod 55 - Blue or Park Mod 65 - Blue or Park Mod 165 - Blue Mod 150 - Blue Mod 151 - Blue Mod MC58 - Park n64atlas is correct, checked the safe and my brain had switched the 165 and the 150 151 around. Mod 165 has the blue bolt. Edit made.

Numrich or Keystone Gun Parts have the NOS springs. I just bought a spare set a few months ago. I like having spare parts, because then I will never need them, ha. Going back to my 1942 manual it states the following: Cycle rate of fire (shot per minute)……..450-600 (Note: Deliverable rate of fire is limited by the dexterity of the operator in inserting Magazines and his ability to aim and fire.) Maybe I am wrong, but it sounds to me they were including the magazine changes to get the cycle rate down or give a real world rate of fire. If we take out the (magazine changes) the cycle rate would be much higher. Could this be where the confusion comes in? Keith

I is my understanding the Christie's firing pin is the machined the same as the factory, but being titanium it is lighter.

Jim here is the link. http://www.machinegunboards.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8854&hl=%2Bbent+%2Bfiring

Not only does the firing pin align with the hammer’s center hole, but it protrudes into it. If by chance the hammer is not caught by the sear and follows the bolt, the firing pin, aligned and in the center hammer hole will prevent the bolt from going into battery. The angle difference between the bolt and hammer also traps the firing pin and prevents it from moving. Clear your Reising and make sure it is clear again. Take the safe off, pull the trigger, the hammer should fall. Using the action bar bring back the bolt slowly, about a ½ inch, a click should be heard. The click is the firing pin dropping into center hammer hole. Now release the action bar, notice the bolt will not go over the locking shoulder and will not go into battery. Taking material from the back of the firing pin may prevent this feature. Keith

Replacing the factory springs with Christies springs is going to increase the fire rate. The Christies springs are much stiffer and though the gun will work with them, I do see some side effects which are as follows: 1) Much more difficult to charge the weapon. 2) Bolt slams when going back into battery. 3) Hammer will strike the firing pin with such force, that it will almost pierce the primer, not to mention hit on the back on the bolt. I would replace the springs with factory new old stock springs, except for one. The factory firing pin return spring in my opinion is a little on the weak side. I believe this spring causes some of us to have the bent firing pin problem. It just fails to keep the firing pin back as the bolt is picking up the next round and the round get forced into the side of the firing pin. I am using the Christies firing pin return spring, the bad news is one has to buy the entire spring kit to get this spring. The light strike should not be happening with a Riesing. Check and make sure someone has not been filing on the firing pin. Some people thought this was a good idea to keep the firing pin from being bent. It does not and will prevent a safety feature from working (discharging out of battery). Keith

Got to the range the other day and got her all sighted in at 50 yards. Using some of my 20 plus year old Remington .22lr Golden bullets ( I should have been rotating my stock ) but still managing some good groups. Had two stove pipes out of 100 rounds, but she is breaking in the new finish, so I think all will be well. Dave I restored a 165 a few months ago, but had to let it go to finance this project. Keith

This project took longer then I thought it would. The only thing I need to get to complete it, is a sling. I know the MC-58 used a leather sling, but I use canvass on my Springfield M1A and of coarse, canvass on my Model 60, so this rifle will wear a canvass sling. In the pictures the rifle looks gray. The rifle is done in a light park and matches my Model 60. The camera flash brings out the gray color. Pictures were really grainy without the flash. The dark areas on the stock are from the oil pooling toward the metal parts during its 50 plus years storage in a warehouse. I liked the look, so I refinished the stock without removing the effect. The first pic is what I started with. Keith

Numrich sells a repro for $29.95 Keith

I am in the market for a model 165 or 151, for a project I have in mind. The rifle will be modified, so I would prefer one that is not in great condition, but is serviceable. I don’t even need the stock. So if any of you guys have one which I could purchase and breathe new life into let me know. Keith

Thanks Paul. A few months ago I knew nothing about a Reising. Just by chance I had a Model 151 come into the shop, which was not working. I purchased the rifle because I was intrigued by the design. It took me a few hours to get the rifle working and loved have it shot at the range and how the sights were very close to my Springfield M1A. It was not until I did some research that I found out the USMC had used the Reising for training for the M1 Garand and the M14. A friend of mine also liked the rifle, so I bought a Model 65 also, so we each can have one. Both of these rifles are what I would call project grade, so they need work to make them look presentable. I located some pictures of a MC-58 and really liked it and started thinking I could modify the Model 65 into a MC-58 if I could find the parts required. Well I located all the parts and the Model 65 is at the gun smith having the machine work done. I will be using a MC-58 stock on the model 151, as well. The fire control system works the same between the Model 65 and the Model 60 and once broke down really is not to complex. I should have the Model 65 back in a few weeks and if you can wait I will do a thread showing the progress of this project and it will have pictures of the entire rifle which will show how it works. Keith