Joseph_T

Thats seriously nicely battle hardened, first one i see with marking placed (can we say horizontally?) to the bar channel. another detail in my studies differencing Savage from Colt, appears to be the hole depth and width, on all the Savage grips i have inspected, the screw hole appeared to be slightly wider and deeper compared to Colt grips (which can be seen on your grip aswell). Can anyone else confirm this?

The 28 should generally have a slower ROF than the M1 with some possible overlap. Sounds like that M1 may have a "soft" recoil spring. From the original 2000 edition of "American Thunder", page 92, 1928A1 ROF = 600 - 725 RPM; page 126, M1 and M1A1 ROF = 700-800 RPM. And on page 99 there is a discussion of where the early production M1's were rejected because of their ROF exceeded the 28 and then on 9 Dec 42, the Ordnance Department waived the M1's excessive ROF relative to the 28. MHO, YMMV, etc. I have a program that calculates the rate of fire. The actuator I used put the 28 a little over 800. the 21 actuator at 920 RPM. and M1a1 at just over 600. Your ear could hear the different rate of fire. The M1a1 seemed to chuck along while the 28 and 21 screamed. All were a joy to shoot. 1921 actuator pull the rate of fire at 920RPM????? thats seriously alot of weight flying over in a bunch of seconds...impressive..

Skittorius why before accusing people of being someone else you dont make this https://www.ebay.com/sch/ebayadvsearch?_sofindtype=9 and post the result here please? This is for checking the seller identity, that cant be changed once a user is registered. P.s as stated in my old post as a possibility, the fake vertical grip i had its been returned to the armory quite a long ago. and watching better the picture i agree its the same grip. a grip that is obviously a fake,and been a little more sanded of when i left it, and could be recognized as a fake even from a person with 9 missing degrees of vision just by comparing two closeup image. I feel sorry that somehow you felt that this was a real deal for you and wanted to place your bid up to almost 900$, and i recommend you to make your analysis BEFORE buying an item, and NOT AFTER. There is no reason to blame anyone except you for your mistakes, not even International-antiques, especially when somehow, instead of complaining regarding the fact that you might have seen wrong, it looks like YOU ALSO RELEASED A POSITIVE FEEDBACK LOL?

Can we say is fake based on the mint conditions? i have an original Colt grip that is in incredibly good shape (a shame that some fellas drilled a hole..), and thats also supposed to be slightly older too. (first two pictures are of my colt grip, picture following example of mint condition Colt grips) attachment=17982:IMG_2893.JPG]

It really looks like one i took in the past from a local armory, i live about 1h drive from him, i can imagine we probably share the same friends too. I try to get in touch with him and drive there to take some photo, what details should i look for?

For those interested i would like to share this picture ive found online, i recall i havent seen that many time around, but it looks very cool. Especially because of the high resolution and recoloration. hope somebody find it interesting.

i think the real firepowers are estinguished, ill be there to take it around 900$

Theres another vertical grip on ebay who just popped out, seller is quite close to me , is it worth to go there have a look? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thompson-1928-Vertical-Grip-S-mark-/253041399583?hash=item3aea71571f:g:bEEAAOSwhgJZZMcZ So instead of using a Colt on my build, this will correctly match my early S1928 display!

thanks guys! : ) Andrew im leaving the small parts for last, there is a member interested in them with the original finish, if i cant achieve the result i want im gonna give these to him. If i can achieve the result im looking for, these are going in the salts too. These knurled levers and the no hole mag catch really give an artistic touch to this already artistic gun.

im back home and just checked the result of the bluing session, incredibly,after curing, the color resulted in a better deep black. it is still not right anyway, last bluing was made as a testing and will be made again, i called Du-Lite, and the guy explained me that (obviously) the upper receiver is strongly hardened and wont blue like all other metals, he recommended to do two baths, one with a standard concentration of salt, the other with a higher concentration of salt, what i noted during last bluing bath, is that in the beginning, with 1:1 salt / water, the upper was taking plum coloration, then with water quicly evaporating from the solution boiling at 135-140C, leaving a more salty solution, the upper started taking its black color. so i will skip straight to 60-40 salt/water i hope thats the last step before having the best result!! I also found an old 1900 tecnique to brush the steel before bluing and its coming good!! (yes the scratches are not straight on upper.. but i was in a hurry and managed to get the wrong grit sandpaper without noticing.. these will be made better on next session) the cool thing, is that unless you put it under direct lighting, you wont be able to see the brushing.

So i blued a third time... and nothing good came out even at this. i wonder why, because this time i managed to use a thermometer and shoot the temp up to the working temps (between 138/145C) nothing good. funny thing is that this time even the lyman housing came sh*t and i got no explanation why is this happening.

Hello, can somebody gently share the 1921 actuator drawings? or any place/book where i can obtain them? thanks alot.

Thanks for the hint, i will try to blue once again with a thermometer this time and check that temps are in the operational range required (which is 138 to 145C) i didnt used a thermometer in these bluing sessions because i readed somewhere that adding salt to the water increases its weight (damn i loaded 7kg of salt in 7kg of water, that was heavy) which will make the boiling temperature exactly what needed during bluing. Have noticed that in both sessions the water wasnt boiling at all. and if i get the upper red it means it must have been too hot. lets see what happens

Hi, i just been trapped by the awesome work of Doug Richardson, and would really love to order an Ultimax™ early 1921 receiver. those should be the "80%" receivers right? i have found his order form, how can i place my order?

wow... that what im looking for ... can i ask you how do you highlight the markings?