Deavis

I tapped the pin out and that's exactly it. One threaded bent pin within.

If one encountered a WH with a .75" or a Kahr 1927 with a .75" grip hanger, could the gun be stripped, fixtured in a mill upside down, and have the hanger milled .125" on each side in order to accept GI fore grips?

Greetings, I recently received this Compensator and noticed there is a pin, but no pin-hole to engage the slot in the threads. Is this a manufacturing defect? It appears to have been parkerized over some old pitting and has cosmoline in the comp. vents. Thanks!

The form 4 cleared in 310 days on my Savage/Bridgeport M1. Questions: 1) My gun has a '28 barrel installed and the comp is loose. Does anyone have a spare pin about? Mine is likely not original (aside from the 28 barrel in the M1 receiver). Someone bubba'ed the the threads with 2 pin slots at some point. 2) How to measure cyclic rate? I used a PACT timer but the splits seemed too long (500 rpm) and the total burst times from first to last too short (1200 rpm). I don't think the timer is accurate enough. 3) Cleaning schedule? How often? Any special lube points other than the obvious bright/worn areas? 4) If I baby the trigger on semi (bench rested it for groups) the gun doubled. Worn part/spring? 5) accuracy at 50 yards with GI ball was 5". There was some lateral dispersion I attributed to a slightly lose comp/sight. What kind of accuracy should I expect? 6) Ultimately I need an M1 barrel swap. Recommendations? I'm on the PK list for a planned Westie overhaul, but don't want to wait YEARS for a swap on this M1. 7) I have 8 pounds of bullseye and 5000 fmjs to load. I was going to load from 5 grains and reduce it incrementally for a little softer shooting. I'm kind of thinking in the 4.5-4.7 range. I was wondering about squibs.... If I had one that somehow escaped powder charging, would the bolt likely fail to cycle another round and fire it? Many thanks in advance. -AD

I just got it back. From mailing to approval was 10 months 1 day. It took them 9 days after approval until I received it. 310 day round trip

The only Thompson photo I could find at our local PD: Albany, Oregon Police Chief Matney attending the FBI academy 1952

I mailed 9/28/16 on my M1 TSMG. We are in the same boat. My buddy got a Form 1 back last week...... 354 days.

Gotcha, guess I'll save the welding for when it cracks.

Just to be clear, I wasn't thinking about stamping the existing number on a new receiver, I was thinking (out loud)about cutting the back quarter off and welding it to a stub as a repair.

Definitely NOT interested in jail.

I'm not thinking this WH is ever going to look correct or be a thing of beauty, but I would like to be able to look at it and not see all that bling and gaudyness. I know this is backwards, but another thought I had was to make a re-weld, splicing the serial number into a Richardson perhaps? Is that an NFA ok thing to do?

I've been known to take on turd polishing efforts in the past. And, this gun exists, someone should do something to make it serviceable. As it sits, it's a waste of a tax stamp, and Form 4 guns don't grow on trees. I was thinking PK treatment on the receiver and put a full 28 parts kit on it. I e-mailed him but he hasn't yet responded. I was wondering about a precision surface grinder to take off the Commemorative stamping. I did an Ithaca 37, scrubbing the game scene off for a trench mock up that came out great. I don't know if it could be done and leave the necesssay nomenclature though, or without visible ledges. Other options? Fill and mill? *Note: I think I erred in posting. The third down on the left is a different gun.

The gun has been on consignment for 2-3 years and hasn't moved at 15.5. It would likely sell for a few K less. I went and looked at it today with my untrained eye and tried to shoot it. The gun FTF on full and semi. It stripped a round off the mag and into the chamber but no mark what-so-ever on primer. I dropped a known GI '28 actuator/bolt/Blish into it and same result. I added a complete known GI '28 trigger frame assembly and same result. I would like to think that the issue lies in headspace /really deep chamber. The extractor on both bolts failed to grab the case and extract it. The gun has other issues. The blish cuts have the WH genetic defect and odd chattering marks. The bolt also has odd chattering on engagement surface. Photos to follow.

I do get the opportunity to shoot before I buy!

Ahhh..... the search engine: http://www.machinegunboards.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=482

Greetings, To the untrained eye, what does one look for in examing a WH in regards to receiver specs and Blish cuts? I'm going to be looking at one soon and need to have an idea of what I'm looking at. I can bring along a caliper and take photos too to post. The seller has a couple of other 28s I can compare to but I think they are all rewelds. I just want to make an informed decision before I make an offer. -Many thanks

Thread resurrection. Sounds like a possible price drop may occur on this gun. What price would you pay for a WH '28 Korean Comm? At what point could you not say no?

Feeling more of a Reising on my horizon.

Still contemplating. A US mil M50 Reising can be had for a 1/4 of what this project will cost me and much faster. It would also fill another slot in my US collection. So many guns, so few funds .

A local dealer has one on a form 4. The gun is like new (but has been fired) and comes with a few XX and XXX mags and a L drum. Price is $15.5K . I am trying to pencil out if it's worth it when you add a trip to PK for the treatment / parts replacement and removal of the gaudy Commemorative crap. While waiting for my M1 to clear NFA, I have developed an interest in a drum capable shooter.

Found one. End thread.

I hear this is rare!

I will take B