Gold1927a1

It won't have the correct appearance, the 16.5" runs the cooling fins farther down the barrel than the original if I remember correctly. If that doesn't bother you have fun with it. Many features of the Kahr aren't 100% correct. It's an inexpensive option. Now if it simply a matter of chopping the barrel, drilling a hole and repinning or does it require threads? None of the barrel's I've seen online are threaded. Not really worried about it having a square shoulder. No one's going to see under the cutts. In any case these days the process is so simple to form 1 especially with the koisks in some gun shops that do your prints.

I'd only pay about as much as I paid for my FN upper kit off palmetto. lol. People put way too much value in MG's. Deployed with an FN made A2. Would never actually use the burst function if my life depended on it.

check your bho/magazine for clearance issues. Clean bho and inspect spring. Try a different mag.

I'm just going to come out and say it. The romanticism of ww2 is complete and utter bs. It is a religion for lemmings.

I just checked with dial calipers. Looks like it would work to chop the barrel and reinstall the cutts. Could even do a brass screw crown and it wouldn't matter much.

If/when I sbr I'll probably just cut the barrel. I'm interested in whether at 10.5" the barrel will be the same diameter as the cutts.. If I can get away with just removing the comp, cutting and crowning the barrel, then reinstelling the comp, it'd be a lot easier.

Yeah. Or could have just used a feeler gauge.

I haven't had any issues with either of my 1927a1's. Gold is a safe queen/investment piece, blued is the shooter.

This is a good excuse to show off the wood on my vepr. I liked the walnut set so much I got both.

Now that would go very well with the gold.

There is no 'hold up'. It's the government. Combine that with the current panic buying..It'll get pushed through eventually. I'd expect at least 9 months if not a year and a half.

Can anyone recommend an oil for the wood? I'm thinking about using some mineral oil but want feedback as to what would be best/appropriate for a Thompson. For such a flashy gun the walnut seems pretty lackluster.

If Fried wasn't the Ag commissioner you'd have had the permit faster.

That's the federal gubmint for you. I tried to eform my uzi and their system lost the photo I uploaded and somehow didn't save my questionaire answers. You might want to sit tight. The entire industry is backlogged I can only imagine how many NFA applications must have been submitted. My silencer took about a year.

Found a decent deal for a blued 1927a1 with free violin case so couldn't help myself. Now I have a safe queen and a shooter!

Love the detachable stock models

Well I took her out today and she ran the stick mag and the drum flawlessly. It was a blast and with the stick mags this thing shoulder bumps pretty easy! Not so much with the drum, too much weight sadly. The winding recommendation seems to be bs. Unless I wind until it stops the spring will run out of steam before the mag is empty. Got some 30 round stick mags coming in the mail.

Whenever I get around to it I'll stake the extractor. Not sure what they test fire these with but very dirty.

Lol, there's not going to be a normal, just ever changing goal posts. Anyway I plan on getting one with the detachable stock and then have a smith cut and pin to 16 OAL or SBR. From what I've seen on a couple of charts, any length over 10.5" with standard 230gr seems to subtract velocity.

Is it normal to have wobble with the drum mag?

Is it normal to have wobble with the drum mag?

From the automotive world, a manufacturer's fix to shearing bolts for a hydraulic actuated system was to cryogenically freeze said bolts. Wondering if that could help this problem?

I've wanted a T1B-14 for years and cannot seem to find one. While browsing on line I found this for a decent price. I realize it is controversial, but it is growing on me.

Cobray MAC10 .45 loader confirmed