TEXASMP40

What is the cleanest & dirtiest ammo for Thompsons? With this many Thompson owners, surely everyone has experience with what runs clean & what runs dirty. I've read on other sites that Winchester White box is dirty along with the Russian brands. Some say PMC is pretty clean, How about S&B, Federal, Privi Part. Fioochi or others? I found one post but it had very few responses - I would think this would be of interest to everyone.

jpw43 Thanks for the picture. That's the best detail I have seen.

Before I posted, I spent several hours looking for good close-ups of the couple of parts that I knew of, but so far haven't found any good pictures. Was hoping someone here might know of a source.

What parts on either the 1921 or 1927 were checkered? Anyone know of someone that can duplicate the "checkering or coining"? Also still looking for a source of good pictures?

I'm trying to come up with enough extra parts and find someone that could reproduce the knurling? I already have an early actuator with correct knurling. I know the mag release lever hole has to be filled in and knurling matched. On the fire control lever - was just the exterior edge knurled? On the safety lever - what was knurled? Any other parts? Does anyone know of any close up or decent pictures of these parts that shows the knurling?

Anyone ever seen the ones Sarco sells? Their ad says they are made of walnut and contoured better than others.

Any body know of a source for a good quality repro vertical foregrip? I know there used to be a couple of people that made really good ones, but from what I understand these are no longer availablle.

I just got my 1928 back from John. Work looks fantastic and runs the same. He did a great job. He did work faster than it took to get my Form 4 and cost was very reasonable. Check my recent post for more info. So far I have ran about 400 rounds thru it over the period of a day. Short burst, long bursts and full clip dumps. It ran perfect. He also does 1928 to 1921 reworks. Contact him and he can send you before and after pictures of mine. I would send them, but prefer he send them to you since they were his pictures and his work. He is also a great guy. He returns emails, texts and phone calls almost immediately, unless he is blueing or hunting.

Can you upload videos to this site? If you can, I can post a couple if someone can tell me how.

I just received a couple of GPC teflon coated drums and a couple of the Keep Shooting drums. Can't go to the range until weekend after next, but will report back after I test.

I purchased a 1928 Korean Commerative (gold plated pimp gun) that had feed issues. It was sent to John Andrewski. He took off al the gold parts and replaced them with parts from a mint condition unfired Russian Lend/Lease parts kit. (Russian kit even had original sling, oiler in buttstock & also came with 2 unfired 20 rd mags). He alsoo reworked the internals to get it all back to original design/specs, reworked to drum slots, reblued everything to match, and a few other things that I can't remember. Work only took about 4 months (less time than the BATF paperwork). Got it last Friday, it looks great and shoots better. It looked so nice, I hated to fire it. Went thru about 400 rds on Sunday, which was done over a period of several hours and with cool down periods between each mag. It ran flawlessly, regardless of ammo mfr., mag mfr., mag capacity, short bursts or full mag dumps - it never mised a lick. His work was fantastic, relatively quick and the cost was very reasonable. I am extremely happy with the quality of his work and would not hesitate to recommend him to anyone that needs to have work done on their 1928. He also does 1928 to 1921 conversions. I really wanted to, but with Korean Comerative stamped on the side - that would have just been wrong.....

Has anyone used the Numrich teflon coated 50rd drums?

Title says it all. Looking for the Mfr. who made the best and most dependable full auto 30 rd mags for the the 1928. I am sure this has been discussed before but I could not find in search.

Title pretty much says it all. Thompsons are tuff, but sometimes things do break. Just curious of what part/s you have had fail and had to replace. Also, if part had to be replaced more than once - how many times did you replace it? Would be good to know where you got the replacement part/s.

I have had a MP40 tube gun for several years. Tube was from Philadelphia Ord. Only problem I ever had was that the cocking handles kept coming off. I tried brazing them on & then Tig welding them on, but the heat hardened the handle too much and made it brittle and they still broke off. I tried hammering the handle to swedge the end in place inside the bolt. 2 problems - I ended up deforming the external end of the cocking handle, when I hammered on the other end to flare it into the inside of the bolt, plus it never really was a tight fit. I finally made an aluminum jig that went around the handle and also cradled the bolt at the same time. This helped keep it from deforming the handle end when the bolt end was flared. Then I made a swedging tool that I could put on my press. I got a replacement handle and then coated the stem with a really good epoxy, inserted the handle into the bolt & jig & then swedged the end of the handle into the bolt with my press. After the epoxy fully cured, I polished it down smooth. Haven't had any problems since. Just my 2 cents, some suppliers sell FPB parts as being interchangeable, very few people I know have gotten these to work and if they did the parts had to have some hand fitting done. Also most of the time, I run the heavier 124 gr 9mm, in Federal, Aquila or Fioochi. I do have some NATO spec. ammo, but my gun runs fine and slower on the other stuff.