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Hello. I’m new to the forum and found this wealth of knowledge while I was doing some research. I have a 4 digit SN 1976 West Hurley and am looking at doing an SBR. I’ve read enough to know parts are nearly impossible to find which worries me. Is it worth the risk of doing an SBR on this early model on the chance I may not be able to get parts in the future if something breaks?? Would I be better to sell this now and buy a current production Kahr Thompson? Any advice very welcome. Thank you guys

Hello all! Newer member here (less than 6 months) but first time poster. Last fall I traded some work, sight unseen, for an old beat up, rusty (and broke as I later discovered) circa 1979 West Hurley 1927A1. At the time, I knew next to nothing about 'Tommys' other than they being one of the more iconic firearm designs. Being a big fan of C&R milsurps – especially US WW1 & WW2 milsurps – I jumped on the deal. The gun was wrapped up in a plastic bag and covered with motor oil. Upon cleaning it off, it was obvious why someone poured oil on it - the entire gun’s exterior was rusty. Tearing it apart to inspect the internals, I noticed that the bolt carrier had a major crack in it as well. After finding Douglas Richardson's website and trading a few phone calls with him, I had a replacement bolt carrier inbound. As the laws here in Cali were changing year end and not wanting to tap the receiver to install a bullet button, I temporarily bubba’d it up to comply with the new BS laws (Temp bubba = grip wrap on pistol grip and replaced the vertical forward grip with a horizontal grip). Now looking rough but ready, I hit the range and gave her a work out. All I say is ‘Wow’ - what fun it is to shoot the Thompson – even if just a rusted up SA version of it! Now, even though I technically have the Thompson hole in my humble collection filled, it is with an example that has a rough finish and sporting a neutered look = the more I look at it the less I am satisfied. I now intend to refinish the rifle and would like to get it to a less neutered look. Can’t decide if I want to blast and re-blue it to keep the classic 1927A1 look, or send it off to a gunsmith to shorten the barrel, blast and park it and possibly modify it to be more similar to the WW2 M1 look which is more in line with my interests in US milsurps. As my knowledge of all things Thompson is limited, I thought it time to make my formal appearance here and to engage and participate with this community and to hopefully glean some of the cognoscenti’s wealth of knowledge on all things Thompson. Reading up on the various threads, it seems like the member ‘Deerslayer’ is the ‘go-to’ Tommy gunsmith for this kind of work. I also see that he is offering a modification to make Cali based Thompsons comply with the new laws by breaking the action to drop the mag. This interests me as I would then be able to get rid of the awful grip wrap. Has any California based members hired him to perform this service? I appreciate any tips or recommendations members can give. Again, greetings all... -Randy

Hello All, I have 3 Nice FBI Cases For Sale. They will fit your 1927A1 with buttstock detached. They are 33" Outside and 32 in Inside and your gun is 31.5" Buttstock detached. $325.00 shipped. Now $250 shippedTwo of them has a Key Will Fit all Full Auto Guns Without Compensators Without Removing Stock

Hello from France ! i'm new on this forum, I own a 1927 A1 with government authorization since 1999, here full auto are not possible to have. I’m very proud to have this wonderful gun, great part of US history. After 1000s shoots at the gun range, the bolt handle has just broken. Auto-Ordnance and Gunparts do not ship outside the US, even the springs ! I’m so sad, because this part is on the catalog, and it is really not a dangerous part like firing pin, barrel, etc. I had try during days and hours to find dealer/seller but no issue for instance, i'm waiting answer from a gentleman in Germany, but no confirmation yet. So I need help ! Do someone here know a gun store able to ship overseas, or a gun store in Europe ? I will appreciate any suggestion, I’m ready to pay all documentation, fees, shipping rate needed. Of course I could produce copy of my authorization Thanks in advance Sincerely Paul

Hi folks, Just joined your club. After years of fanboying, searching and hoping to find one fine genuine AO Tommygun, my dreams really came true now… I was able to get my hands on a very beautiful WH A1 over here in Switzerland. As I found out here in the forums already, this baby must've been produced somewhen back in '76 as the serial no. is pretty low (3194). I haven't shot her yet but I'm really lookin forward to do so in the next few days. http://i542.photobucket.com/albums/gg432/Feldjaeger85/Misc/Halbautomat-Auto-Ordonance-Thompson-1927-AI-45-ACP_b2.jpg http://i542.photobucket.com/albums/gg432/Feldjaeger85/Misc/Halbautomat-Auto-Ordonance-Thompson-1927-AI-45-ACP.jpg http://i542.photobucket.com/albums/gg432/Feldjaeger85/Misc/12348712_1633279620268525_1149630376_n.jpg http://i542.photobucket.com/albums/gg432/Feldjaeger85/Misc/12336197_1633279606935193_896906931_n.jpg http://i542.photobucket.com/albums/gg432/Feldjaeger85/Misc/12312276_1633279610268526_1449633432_n.jpg http://i542.photobucket.com/albums/gg432/Feldjaeger85/Misc/12336084_1633279630268524_51342817_n.jpg

After having the bolt handle on my WH 1927a1 SA break, I ordered another one from gunpartscorp. After installing it, i started running into some issues with the bolt not charging all the way back to the spring buffer as it normally should. This is causing the bolt to slightly protrude preventing proper insertion of drum mag (I was able to get it in with a bit of force and a few colorful cusswords). Clearly this isn't the correct charging handle and i don't want to cause any damage to either the bolt or the firing pin as a result. So a couple questions for the members here: 1. Am I crazy, or is there a difference between these two styles of charging handles? (Kahr & WH) 2. Any recommendations on where I can order the correct bolt handle? 3. Would it be a reasonable task to possibly machine this thing so that it works correctly? It seems that the slots that hold it in the upper reciever are a bit more "rounded" on the new bolt vs the original. I was thinkin if these were squared off it may fix the issue. Any feedback or insight would be much welcomed. Pics attached. pic 1 - old bolt handle & new bolt handle side by side pic 2 - old bolt handle - bolt charges all the back to the buffer plate pic 3 - old bolt handle - top view of upper pic 4 - new bolt handle - bolt does not charge back to buffer plate pic 5 - new bolt handle - top view of upper

Hi Fellas, I know this could apply to the FA side of the switch but being a SA owner only I decided to put it here. I don't know if this will be a duplicate topic but I have not searched all of the archives yet to see if there is info in here about these. the way I got turned on to loaders like this was watching an old video of one of the Ta Ta Shows. There was like a 1/2 second flash of one of these in use. I'll bet I watched that stupid clip over 50 times to make sure I got the full concept on how to make one of these. I did say make because I did make the following. Partially due to not being able to find anyone who produces them and partially due to me liking to make my own things if I can. Though marked to take 15 rounds it will actually hold and load 20 at a time. I'm not sure how much interest there is in these but I know how long mags take to load and anything to make it quicker appeals to me. I can only imagine how many more mags a FA owner could go through on a range day... That being said if there is interest enough in these I might make some to sell on Gun Broker since I lack the Member status to sell them here. Please tell me what you think. Thanks Jon Here's a YouTube link of it in action: Now on to the pics:

Has anyone here shortened the barrel and permenately attached the cutts compensator for an overall length of 16.5 inches? if so, was it worth the time and expense? Are ther any recomendations for a gunsmith to do the work? I have a 90s vintage West Hurley in its stock barrel configuration and I'm wondering it this modification is worth my time. I really don't want to go the SBR route with this gun, so I thought this would be a reasonable alternative. Here is a picture of my gun. I plan to use it in Zoot shooting matches and just general fun. any insight will be appreciated!

My 1927A1 has a Lyman adjustable sight. I added this sight to the gun, it is not original to the gun. When the sight is in the down position, recoil from firing causes the sight to move forward on the slide. When I raise the sight to use the apature, it has moved from the "1" position to about the "5" or "6". Is this normal or is there a way to tighten the sight and prevent this?

Hi again.. As previously stated - I am in the market for a AO/Thompson 1927a1. I have found a seller that has one that I am intrested in. However I am unsure if this is the latest version or an old stock version. In a E-brochure I download (dated from 2005) the cocking knob is shown as a "sperical knob". Ive have uploaded a pic at the bottom of this post, from that brochure. The model I am looking - the cocking knob looks more cyclindrical : http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa351/GunBowanna/RIFLES/Auto-Ordnance%201927%2045/IMG_0422.jpg Also in another store - the model I handled there had a different safety switch- it was a slider type. Again the one I am looking at - looks different, it has a flipper switch. Is this model the most current, is the flipper style better ? You can see the flipper switch in the pic above. Also is this one the steel reciever ?(as opposed to the aluminum which I dont want!) Thanks for your help! The pic of the spherical knob version is attached to this message (click on thumbnail)

Newbie. First Post. First Thompson. I am not new to firearms and have shot since I was in grade school. I have a closet full of rifles, shotguns, pistols, etc. But like a kid that grew up with a Ferrari poster on his wall - I've always wanted this one. I purchased a new in the case 1927A1. The gun appears to be a recent factory build. Ordered an extra 30rd military clip and with information I got off of this board drifted the hole a bit higher in it so that it would fit my new gun. I also bought a 3rd party 50rd drum - but have not used it as of yet. Now every slot in the case is filled. I took "the boys" out shooting this past saturday and decided to run a few rounds through the Thompson. We took plenty of other guns and enough ammo for the four of us to shoot for two hours pretty much non-stop. The Tommy Gun ran flawlessly for everyone and a was a joy to shoot. We put 250 rounds through it without a hitch. Relying on my military training I decided to sight it in at 50 yards with a few three round shot groups. Upon firing the first three rounds directly through the bulls eye of the target my sighting it in ended. The sights are dead on - received that way from the factory. That is the first factory issued gun I have ever had arrive sighted perfectly to my eye. I like the case. I like the gun. I like the way the gun fits into the case. The local sheriff has already agreed to sign my form 1 and do the fingerprints so I can get my paperwork started to get a short (and appropriate) barrel on it. However..... I do not like the long trigger pull. From what I've read here there are about 3,372 other people that don't like it either. So I decided to do a bit of filing and polishing (as I read on here) and now the pull is perfect. It is just less than 1/4 inch before the firing pin drops - not well over 1/2 inch. And it is now very smooth and does not feel odly obstructed. Did I mention I really like this gun.......?