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I was shopping for replicas, and I found this piece. I was going to skip on by, then the underside of the receiver caught my eye. Two welds seem to be keeping the SMG bolt from moving. Getting the photos to post, I noted the true dewat artistry, a weld on the trigger control group. Well that settles it, two welds in the receiver and one on the trigger control group, perfect! It does seem strange to me to leave the original parts in the gun, unless it was dewatted so long ago that it didn't matter. This seems like a much more efficient way to deactivate a gun whilst preserving history..... On one hand, not too bad a price compared to a totally messed up gunbroker display piece, The seller ironically, or unironically has a 99.8% satisfaction index. I would definitely only give him one star from my federally provided computer. The reason I posted this was more, how long ago was it that this was "normal" anywhere?

I've accrued some tsmg parts that after going through my collection I'm going to list some here for sale. With David's permission. Payment will be PayPal or Money Orders, please allow an extra 2% for PayPal. Shipping extra: $10 for priority USPS. Which if it's for some of the smaller parts $5 will do. A portion will be going back to this board! Any questions or if more/better pics are needed, just let me know. Prices are not necessarily firm (hopefully I get most of the listed at a fair price) Savage 1928 complete trigger frame: $550 **SOLD** S/N: 432395. Some pitting under the grip area but otherwise in great condition. 2 Cutts compensators, one with the sight and one without. The one without has some wrench marks on the rear belt section. Both could use a reblue. With sight: $100. Without sight: $75 (wasn't sure on pricing here). Both **SOLD** 2 '28 breech oilers: $20 a piece. **One(1) SOLD** 2 Savage 1928 spring pilots. Some pitting. $25 a piece. Firing pin and spring: $20 Slightly beat up Stevens M1 front sight: $5 (I could just throw this in for free with another part). Both **SOLD** M1 Savage pilot: $10 M1 Buffers (2): $10 a piece. A broken and slightly bent riveted type (M1) grip mount bar. Could be repaired with the right equipment. $45? Assorted Savage foregrips: Top 2 British (from England) I believe both have splits in the rear: $35 each. The rest: $45 Assorted M1 and a '28 grips. All (M) Strombeck on the left and Savage on the right: $25 a piece. Complete 1928 buttstock: latch, swivel, plate etc. Great condition. $75 **SOLD** Good condition stripped '28 stock #1217 stamped on the back: $30 2 British issue/modified M1 stocks: $75(?) a piece. 1 non crossbolt (from Russia) M1 stock. Could use some cleaning up and BLO: $50(?) 2 unissued crossbolt "blonde" Walnut 1928 stocks, stripped, one without crossbolt installed: $20 a piece. And I have a crappy repro vertical forward grip for $10. Otherwise it heats the house for .2 seconds this winter lol! Again, if I'm out of line on pricing let me know. DM if interested. Thanks again Dalbert! Andrew

Have No Connection to nor do I know this seller Rare Gun! Lower and Upper Numbers Matching is what I Thought at First. I didnt look close enough. I looked at it with my phone..Never again!! Thank you TD for setting this one straight, This one is the First Variation with Patent Dates Not Numbers https://www.gunbroker.com/item/874590047

https://www.gunbroker.com/Item/858954673 Mid 15s. I called on this and seller says the Upper and Lower halves match, serial 552,XXX i didnt know the early features,ladder sight and finned barrels were on guns that high in number Here is what he said in a e mail It starts with "S" the upper and lower serial numbers match. ThanksLuke Still a great deal IMO at less than 16k with 1k worth of extras

I have a WWII blued bolt that I got in a parts kits years ago. Never really looked at it much since it was blued and I used the bright ones in my guns. It was just a spare part to me. Has stayed in a box with other parts for at least 10 years. Got it out the other day and noticed it had more markings than I am used to seeing. Is this normal for a WWII bolt? It is marked with a "P" on the left side of the bolt at the bottom. On the rear left hand corner, is it marked with both a "S" and "R". Must have been in a custody dispute I guess...

Hi Everyone, I keep having problems the more I play with TSMG's!! This time I have a Very early Savage 1928 serial 17000 range that has the pilot with no hole, I thought it would be clever to put the original in a bag label it and replace with a pilot with the hole, However everytime I capture the spring. remove the piece thats holding it, then move the bolt to the rear before letting it go forward, the spring bends as you see in the picture.. any suggestions? Thanks!

All, I have put together a photographic comparison of some of the subtle differences between the original Colt vertical grips and the WWII Savage vertical grips. This should help members distinguish between the two in photographs or help in determining a real grip from a reproduction. Savage grip on left, Colt grip on right. Savage grip on left, Colt grip on right. Grip mount channels. Savage "S" mark in grip mount channel. Savage grip slightly longer than Colt grip. Colt grip. Savage grip. Colt grip. Savage grip. Colt grip. Savage grip. Colt grip. Savage grip. Savage left, Colt right. Savage grip. Colt grip. Savage grip. Colt grip. Savage left, Colt right. Savage grip. Colt grip. Hope this helps the new collectors as well as the older ones.

I am posting this for a friend of mine. I have it in my possession. It is a Savage marked, knurled, dulite finished, safety lever for the Savage 1928 TSMG. It has the hole in the lever. PM me with offers if interested. I am not sure what this is worth, so all the experts out there please chime in. (There are no scratches on this, the thing in the hole is Flash reflection.) Sandman1957

Hi! Bought my first Thompson M1 (not A1). Really nice piece but I found some markings on the barrel and receiver I cannot decipher. I tried getting a few pics but the markings are tiny and I need to dig out my macro-lens for them. Receiver: just next to the "S" for Savage manufacture in front of the mag well there is a small "logo" and what looks like the number 80. They are tiny and I cannot make out what they say. Additionally: on the barrel, just below the muzzle are some small stamps as well and I cannot for the life of me figure out what they are. Like I said I will try to get macro-shots during the weekend but IF someone happens to know right away what they are I would be super curious. No re-build or arsenal stamps present on the SMG otherwise. The stamps have not gone through the finish, so the gun was parked (or similar) after application. So hardly original finish on this one.... Thanks!

Hi group. I am new to Colt Thompson's though I have covetted a Thompson since I went to my eighth grade Washington D.C. trip and saw an FBI agent demonstrate one; unfortunately, being from NJ, i never thought I could own one and always were told they were very expensive. Having moved to Virginia in 2002 (I wish i knew they were only 5k back then), I didn't pursue it. Anyway, I have a savage barrel, (had a 2nd gen cutts compensator on it) marked "S" and wanted to make sure that the barrel that I am comparing it to is a Colt barrel. The "colt" barrel has a mark to line up on the top receiver and has not other markings; i didn't know if my "colt" barrel has rounded enough edges or if the fins were the correct thickness (i read these got smaller as the serial numbers go up?). Were the "lines" only on Colt barrels and receivers? Thanks and correct me if I have made any mistakes.

WTS: Early USGI Khaki Thompson canvas cover (case), stock number D 50268. SOLD Complete Savage 1928 Lower Frame, frame has a George E Goll inspection stamp. It is complete frame which has a paddle safety and a S pin rocker pivot ( selector) . Sold