Is A Transferable Reweld Bar Worth $12k?

[al nukem]

Hi, I have a oppurtunity to buy a BAR for $12000 that was rewelded. The fellow says it runs well but says "it's ugly" because when it was rewelded using stainless wire. He says the finish did not take well. I am looking at it as a shooter/investment piece. I already have a Transferable FAL Heavy Barrel that I am shooting & like it quite well. Thanks!

[Junkyardslug]

Just my $0.02. I say go for it if it is a WWI BAR (Colt, Marlin-Rockwell, or Winchester). Then pay a competent smith to grind, reweld and re-blue it. These BARs were machined from a block of steel, and will take a weld. This would be the better investment piece.

 

If it is a later BAR (IBM, New England Small Arms Corp, or Royal Typewritter) I say skip it. These were made from a cast iron/steel, and you can't really weld them. The BAR is pretty thin in places (around 1/8"), the welding prosess will pull the cast metal apart when the weld cools and contracts. I heard a story recently about a VERY well know smith who was having problems welding a registered BAR receiver. He would lay a bead and it would crack right next to the bead. Turns out it was a Royal Typewritter receiver. If it is a cast receiver this would definatly be a shooter over an investment piece.

 

I am wondering if it is cast, it might be braised back together? I have seen one DS BAR that was braised and it looked really bad. Of couse the parkerizing didn't take and the joint stood out like a sore thumb. You description reminded me of it. If you get it, post a photo here, or Email me a photo, I would love to see it

 

George

[full auto 45]

If you don't buy it, send me the info, I know someone looking for one.

[amafrank]

Having welded a few BAR's and others as well I have to say I completely disagree with your post on the wartime guns. The cast receivers are in the minority and most of the WWII production was made from the same blocks of steel that the WWI guns were. As to welding the cast receivers there is no problem there if the prep work is done properly. As thin as 1/8th inch is actually pretty thick and in welding it is easier to work with thin sections than thick. The thicker stuff will warp more.

To the original poster, if you don't buy the gun @$12K let Mike know. He needs one and that is about $6K cheaper than it should be.

 

Frank

 

[Junkyardslug]

Frank, I will retract my statement, I won't argue with a man with experience. You did say the key though:

 

QUOTE

As to welding the cast receivers there is no problem there if the prep work is done properly

 

As a 'hack' welder myself (I took a class on Stick Welding at a local Community Collage), I know enough to know that you can really mess things up if you don't know what you are doing; and that guys who know how to do the prep work correctly generally don't make 'Ugly Welds'. So the question is raised, was the prep work done right on this one?

 

While I have your attn Frank, I have a nuts and bolts question in the event that I ever become a class II Manufacturer. How do you set headspacing on a reweld BAR? All the Demills I have seen are cut between the locking lug and front of the receiver

 

George

 

 

Edited March 8, 2006 by Junkyardslug