Broken Ejector

[WWII GPW 44]

Hello,The ejector blade broke off on my Model 60 Reising.The round base is still in place.I purchased a new ejector from Numrich arms to replace it.My question is,Does the base go all the way through the side of the receiver,or is it a blind hole?It is hard to tell by looking at the side of the receiver,as it is polished.I would appreciate any information.Thank you very much,Ed

[bm59collector]

Looking at my 50, which is parkerized, the hole goes all the way through on the receiver - I can see the outline of the circle on the outside - HTH. Late 56/57 gun with a 'S' serial #

[WWII GPW 44]

Looking at my 50, which is parkerized, the hole goes all the way through on the receiver - I can see the outline of the circle on the outside - HTH. Late 56/57 gun with a 'S' serial #

Thank you very much for the information.I will try driving it out.Ed

[WWII GPW 44]

Hi HTH,I punched the old one out,and then installed the new one.Thanks again,Ed

[bm59collector]

Ed, just for future information, did you punch it out from the inside or outside of the receiver - just wondering if there was a slight taper to the circle so it could only go in on one side. Thanks, Art

[WWII GPW 44]

Hi HTH,I punched the old one out,and then installed the new one.Thanks again,Ed

Hi Art,I punched from the outside of the receiver.Ed

[bm59collector]

Thanks Ed, would seem to make sense, the force would be on the inside and want to push the ejector out, so there must be a taper to the circle to keep the ejector from popping out of the receiver. Again, Thanks for the info, Art

[emmagee1917]

Ummmm....no , I would not think so. The long rectangular ejector body itself would keep it from going through the little hole. I've never replaced one , but if it's a press fit , the hole would be a cylinder in order to get the maximum bite. If it is a rivet - in set up , the taper would be on the outside to force the body up against the inside wall and to prevent it from comming loose and falling through the ejection port.

How about it GPW , can you shed some light here? Also , is there something to keep the ejector " level" , ie keep it alined with the bolt groove ? Maybe an internal groove the ejector fits into ?

Thanks , Chris

[WWII GPW 44]

Ummmm....no , I would not think so. The long rectangular ejector body itself would keep it from going through the little hole. I've never replaced one , but if it's a press fit , the hole would be a cylinder in order to get the maximum bite. If it is a rivet - in set up , the taper would be on the outside to force the body up against the inside wall and to prevent it from comming loose and falling through the ejection port.

How about it GPW , can you shed some light here? Also , is there something to keep the ejector " level" , ie keep it alined with the bolt groove ? Maybe an internal groove the ejector fits into ?

Thanks , Chris

Hi Chris,This is the first time that I have ever replaced a Reising ejector.As was stated in one of the previous replies,on most guns you can see the circle of the end of the ejector on the outside of the receiver. The only way to install a new one is to insert it from the inside.So obviously to remove the broken stud,it has to be driven in from the outside of the receiver.After removing the broken piece,I carefully cleaned up the hole with a fine rat tail file,and checked to make sure that the stud would just start in the hole.I then tapped it into the hole with a brass punch,ensuring that the ejector blade stayed level with the receiver,until it bottomed out.There was no slot in my receiver to keep the blade aligned.I then had to file the end of the stud flush with the receiver,and put some cold blue on to finish the job.I have not fired the gun yet,but will post if I have any problems.Thanks Ed

[emmagee1917]

Thanks , that tells me the hole is cylindrical and that friction is the only thing holding it in place. I have not checked , but I bet the bolt groove rides at least part of the ejector during the whole bolt cycle to help keep it alined if there is no support in place. Or maybe any preasure to move it is not nearly enough to to so.

Thanks , Chris

[texasvwnut]

I thought that these ejectors were welded in place. Maybe I was remembering the newer parkerized models. I'm pretty sure my 1957 had a weld to keep it from moving. Thoughts??

[jim c 351]

Its been a few years since I replaced a Reising ejector, so my memory may be a little off.

If I remember correctly, the outside of the ejector hole had a slight bevel and the ejector body protruded slightly past the outside of the receiver wall.

I made a tool out of 1/4 steel rod by cutting a "U" to straddle the ejector. I put the tool in a vise and put the gun with the new ejector on the tool, and then I had an assistant peen the outside part of the ejector untill flush with the receiver.

Welding is a formula for disaster. Sooner or later the new ejector will brake and then you'll have a real problem getting rid of the weld.

Confused ?

Jim C

[m37]

Jim is correct

there is a chamfer on the ejector hole that the shank of the ejector is upset into

then ground off to keep it from working in or turning

 

you might want to take it back out and degrease and use some

bearing retainer locktite

or leave it together and use wicking loctite

mike

[emmagee1917]

Well , my origanal thought was that it was rivited , that was the high-tech of the times. As the head was formed on the outside , the inside body would be sucked up tight against the inside wall.

Chris