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Joe H

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  1. If you are interested in this topic you should join the weapons guild.
  2. There are 2 different bolt hold back methods. The one employed by Deerslayer and there is another method . The second method allows the selector to be turned before pulling the bolt back. Here is a discussion of the 2 methods: https://weaponsguild.com/forum/index.php?topic=8488.0 Joe
  3. Good luck finding one of those. Probably have to make one. Shouldnt be too bad since you are just cleaning up some bad threads. It's leaded steel and not heat treated in that aea. Joe
  4. neonelect, The WWII trigger group that has FA (fast) and Slow FA is very similar to the WWi trigger that has fast and semi. The Slow fire is actually semi that is triggered by the actuator in the buttstock. Remove the actuator and spring and the BAR will fire semi on the slow setting. I think you are in Europe so no discussion about semi requirements here in the US. If you can get a copy of "Rock in a Hard Place" by J L Ballou you can see the tigger mechanisms on P 268-270 and P 290 Joe
  5. Bay, Do you know what grade of steel the receiver is? There have been stories around that the Kahr, if it is a Kahr, semi receivers are 12L14 steel. This is a leaded steel, mostly used for screw machine parts, that is very easy to machine but will not weld well. Joe
  6. I'm pretty sure this is his website: https://www.wwiibarman.com/
  7. Billy, IBM came up with the "broach" idea during WW II. The broached slot went the whole length of the receiver. It cut through the threads in the rear end. Prior to approval for the full length slot the rear threads were maintained, which involved a lot of specialized hand work. I've attached a pic of the broached threads in the rear of a WWII receiver. I didn't have the budget for broaching so I drilled 4 - 1/8" holes in the corners and milled out the waste, file work in the corners as required. Interior done with long reach tee slot cutter. Rear hole smaller than slot to provide AFT denial for the slide. Luckily I had enough headroom on my WWII war dept tagged Jackson mill. Joe
  8. "I hear about these semi auto builds, not oow, but have never come across blueprints, kits, manuals etc. And I've never seen one online or in person so I will assume they are purely fictitious, made of hopes and dreams". see my post above, not at all fictitious! "What about an 80% type build into an MOR style rifle? No idea what that would need but that could be a good start." What's a MOR build? "If somebody has a manual or directions on a semi build thats not an OOW that would be amazing. I really hope such a thing exists." It doesn't exist If you want to learn how to build a 1918 BAR semi go over to the weapons Guild: https://weaponsguild.com/forum/index.php?board=47.0 Joe
  9. Bayrain, You are looking at a major project. I know, I've done it. The BAR was not designed to be built as a one-off on manual machines but it can be done. Be sure your machinist has a good set of plans for the receiver so he knows what he is getting into. Remember you have to incorporate all the denials required by the AFT so that you are not making a machine gun. You have to provide the machinist with details of the modifications required before he starts work. The gas system will need mods. to work with the semi auto FCG. The PO 80% receiver requires significant machine work and some long reach tooling to get into that deep receiver. The only drawings that I found that were usable for a build is here: https://www.wwiibarman.com/collections/blueprints-drawings-and-technical-items There are many Dwgs floating around the internet, some inaccurate but mostly unusable except for one original 1918 dwg with the receiver on one sheet, accurate, but very difficult to use. The details of the OOW semi patent is attached. Their patent ran out a couple of years ago. You can replicate the OOW FCG with some new parts and parts from an M1 carbine FCG. IMO if you are not capable of doing the work yourself, forget it. Check with OOW and see if they are taking orders as it will be far cheaper in the long run. At one time they offered complete semi receivers to use with your parts kit. Good luck with your project, Joe OHIO ORD PATENT.pdf
  10. Ivan, No idea where you got the McMCarr spring numbers without the finished length?? Read the link I posted. The McmasterCarr spring # 's and corresponding length are posted. Joe
  11. Ivan, IMO it might be much easier at this point to check with Dan Block "Deerslayer" about the availability of an EZ-Pull kit. In addition to the correct springs, you will need to fabricate a polyurethane buffer. Here's a Thread all about The Ez-Pull setup: http://www.machinegunboards.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18312 Have Fun, Joe
  12. Richard, To answer your question, I built a M1 semi with a Phila. Ord. receiver (have a SBR tax stamp) using the TMR-2 barrel. The PO receiver is built to the same specs as the GI M1. All other barrel related parts are M1 GI. Barrel fit up perfectly looks and runs great. The green mountain barrel has the full auto chamber per the GI specs. Only difference I could tell between the Green mountain barrel and a M1 GI barrel is that the Green mountain barrel is button rifled, The GI barrels are cut rifling. The steel as best I can tell is pretty much the modern equivalent of the original barrels, pre-hardened 4140 alloy steel or something similar. Joe
  13. George has a full set for sale. They are in an old Govt format but can be converted to PDF by one of the free conversion programs available online. https://www.wwiibarman.com/pages/about-us-and-contact You will find some some receiver Dwgs and a few parts dwgs on line. But none as complete and readable as above. Joe
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