dantheman

Like the title says, looking for a trapdoor M1 buttplate. Had no luck with the usual online retailers. Thanks, Daniel

No doubt. I’m not thrilled but that’s the only substitute I could find.

Thank you, very generous. I ended up finding the screws and hardware I needed. I ended up taking a chance and ordered a front “Bakelite” resting bar from them, and like you say, it’s kinda cheesy. It will work but there was zero communication. It just showed up.

Plenty of guys have done this to build semi autos. You have to fabricate some sort of denial pins or blocks into the bolt channel before completing the reweld so an unmodified bolt won’t fit. Most use some type of AR style trigger and mod the lower with new holes for the trigger pins. The bolt is modified to work with a floating FP that the hammer can strike making it closed bolt. But yes, technically, rewelding receiver to original MG configuration and then adding the mods would constitute a MG.

That’s a good view of a Hawley Fiber M1 Helmet liner, too.

That’s a good view of a Hawley fiber M1 helmet liner, too.

Anyone know how to contact History Arms? Their site doesn't have any contact info and the contact us page does not work. Seems kinda sketchy but if they list what i need.

Thanks everyone. Bergflak's response to my email was "sorry all out of parts". I think the only option at this point is history arms.

I am in need of the long/rearmost bolt for the bakelite on an MP40 as well as the nut. Does anyone have a source? Tried Bergflak but he does not have any parts. Thanks, Dan

That is what I intend to do. Not going to modify the Richardson receiver. I have a nice barrel with junk threads I plan to use

Would you mind sharing who the stamp maker is? Would love to have a GEG stamp for my semi m1 SBR

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. I found a barrel I forgot I still had that has damaged threads. I made a post about it here a while back. The consensus was the barrel was now useless for live fire so I’ll turn it down on the lathe and see where I get. If that doesn’t work out, Bob you will be getting a phone call from me to see when I can get on your schedule haha.

Thank you everyone for your responses. Sorry I was not more clear in my description of the alignment. I was not referring to the draw mark. I was saying that all the barrels I tried all have compensators and front sights pinned, as taken off Russian returns, where the front sight/comp combo align at 4:00-5:30 viewed from the rear when hand tightened. I have no doubt that it would be impossible to turn these another 190-200 degrees to get the sight to align. I could care less about the draw marks. I just know that, from what I have read, generally a M1928A1 would have had the P proof at 12:00 or center of the top of the receiver nose along with a punch mark. That is impossible with the barrels I have since the P proof and front sight/comp are in line. In other words the P and punch would have been at TDC of the receiver it was originally installed on. I really hate to modify a live barrel, and therefore ruin it's headspace, if it were to be used on a live gun by turning down the shoulder. Please see the attached photos of what I am referring to. I've read most of the threads on this forum about the draw mark and I get that they were likely marked with a thread gauge. The thing that I don't understand is how, seeing as that the thread in the receivers wasn't timed (from what I have read), all the take-off barrels with comps and sights installed that I have all align at the same (incorrect) spot on this Richardson receiver.

I promise I’m not trying to rehash the whole barrel/receiver draw mark debate. I was very fortunate to recently acquire a Richardson 1928A1 Ultimax receiver from a contact on the G503 forum. I realize this is a display receiver but I want to do this right. I have the tools to barrel this properly, which I acquired from the recent run of clones of the Richardson design. The issue I’m running into is the 3 take off barrels I have from Russian parts kits all align at the same spot when hand tightening. About 5:30 from the rear of the receiver. Obviously they’re not going to align after torquing. Before I just say screw it and attempt to pin the compensator at a different position, does anyone have any suggestions? Should I purchase a NOS barrel and drill/pin it? I really want this to look the part so I’d love to have the P mark at TDC. I could attempt to shim the barrel. But at the same time that’s not really proper. Even though it’s a wall hanger I just want it to look correct. Should I try to buy more take off barrels and hope one will remotely come close? Doesn’t seem like that’s the case as the 3 I have all align in the same position. Thanks, Dan

Anyone have a spare smooth 1928a1 actuator with a very good to great finish? I have one but the finish is quite worn on the knob. Was hoping to find a nicer example. Im aware there are several on GB at the moment, but I thought Id inquire here first.

I will let Bob speak for himself, but yes hes very busy. Ive been on his list for an M1A1 Bfong since Oct 2020. I think calling would be better, Im sure he has a ton of emails. I need to give him a call about some other items myself.

Mohawks receiver vise and barrel wrench are great. I have a set. Well worth it and it works pretty much like the Richardson design.

Thanks Bob. As I said above I don’t intend on using this barrel for live fire, but if it is ok for blanks then I’d rather use an original part for something useful than just throwing it out or putting it on a dummy. Im aware of the repro grip mounts as well, but thanks for the reminder. As far as repairing the grip mount, as thing goes; I’d rather save the original part and use it. I’m not at this to make money, it’s a hobby. If I can save something from the scrap bin then that’s what I strive to do. Waste of time? Probably, but at least I tried.

Thanks everyone. Wasnt really planning on using it, just curious what others thought. The chamber seems fine other than having some gouges in the entry area. If anything it may get the muzzle threaded and used for blanks on a SBR. I hate wasting original parts. Otherwise it will remain on a display receiver. The original milled grip mount also had the lug that engages the barrel threads ground down. Im going to try to repair that by welding it up and reshaping.

I recently bought a dummy 1928a1 built on an aluminum receiver with GI parts. After getting the barrel off the aluminum receiver, which was glued on with red loctite it seems, I noticed it was damaged somewhat. Appears someone got heavy handed getting the old receiver stub off. Based on these pictures would this barrel be safe to shoot? The chamber will need to be cleaned up some but Im mostly worried about the material missing in the threads. Thoughts?

Pm coming

Put me down, Id like to have one.

Thank you for the update, Bob. I’m sure the pandemic hasn’t helped either. Don’t take me the wrong way for inquiring, I was just hoping to find out what was going on. I know myself and others have been in the queue for quite some time now and some were starting to wonder what was happening. Thank you and I look forward to hearing from you when my slot comes up.

I just wish we had a clear idea of when these were going to ship. I know there was some back and forth with the ATF but is it production issues? Im a patient guy but at some point there has to be a definite understanding of when orders will be filled

I’m curious of the status of M1A1 production as well.