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atmow

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  1. Contact Folke Myrvang (folkem@online.no) for some nice MP-40 mags at a reasonable price. I bought some from him and they are in excellent shape. I believe they were $35 each. I ordered a mag loader from Marstar about two months ago but it was not WWII German. When I called and asked about exchanging it for an original, they said they had few originals left and made no guarantees with new orders for the loaders.
  2. Thank you for the info so far. Aside from part identification, I'm a novice with Thompsons, so please bear with me. Before I try changing out a bunch of parts (which I don't have or know how to do yet), let me show you what I am looking at on the rocker pivot, sear, and bolt so we can maybe narrow this down a little more. http://www.hunt101.com/img/217344.jpg http://www.hunt101.com/img/217345.jpg http://www.hunt101.com/img/217346.jpg I don't know what a "good" rocker pivot is supposed to look like--is this one too worn? If I do need to start changing out parts, can anyone recommend a good, detailed guide for disassembling the lower receiver? Thanks.
  3. I've had my Savage M1 for a few months and it consistently runs away in both full and semi. In full, it often keeps shooting 5-10 rounds after I release the trigger. On semi, it shoots full-auto and pretty much acts the same as on full, shooting 5-10 rounds after I release the trigger. I've tried it with a couple of different kinds of ammo but the problem continues. If I dry fire the gun on full and keep the trigger depressed, the bolt will keeping cycling by hand. If I dry fire the gun on semi and keep the trigger depressed, the bolt will catch the sear with each cycle, requiring me to release the trigger and depress it again to cycle the bolt. Since the gun seems to function fine when dry firing like this, is it that the recoil spring is too stiff and isn't allowing the bolt to travel far enough rearward to catch the sear? Any ideas are appreciated because I am going through a lot of ammo like this!
  4. QUOTE (Hawkeye_Joe @ Aug 31 2004, 08:41 AM)I just ordered a loader yesterday so I don't know the quality but the price is great. I ordered a loader from Marstar but, unlike their advertisement, it doesn't have any markings on it. I am sending it back for either a refund or exchange. I hope you have better luck.
  5. Here's the telephone number for Don @ Omega: 520-889-8895. I also e-mailed him and it took some time for him to respond. They don't take credit card, so you'll have to send payment by mail.
  6. QUOTE (guy1074 @ Jul 9 2004, 01:10 PM)On a related note, the previews for this upcoming auction show several DEWATs that transfer tax free on a form 5. Does this mean that they are in the NFA registery? If so, can they be reactivated, pay the tax and be put back into circulation, or would they be considered post samples at that point? As long as they are in the registry (transfer via a Form 5 suggests this), you can pay the tax, wait for the form to be approved by BATF, and rewat them. Unregistered dewats are a problem and I assume that's what Arthur was referring to.
  7. QUOTE (John Jr @ Jul 3 2004, 08:04 PM)Quick question: The selector switches appear to be colt. Did the seller say anything about this? No. I noticed, of course, they are not the pin-type selectors like most M1's have, but I don't know anything beyond that.
  8. QUOTE (philasteen @ Jul 3 2004, 03:20 PM)Alright, dumb question here, but how do you know this is a Savage? It has the AO Bridgeport CT markings. Not a dumb question...I've asked it myself. The inspector marks are one way to tell-this has the FJA and GEG stamps found on Savage-produced guns. Another clue is the small "S" stamped on the underside of the receiver, right in front of the magazine well.
  9. I picked up my new Savage M1 this week and just need to share... http://www.hunt101.com/img/191887-big.jpg http://www.hunt101.com/img/191889.jpg http://www.hunt101.com/img/191888.jpg http://www.hunt101.com/img/191897.jpg It was recently reparked (it had been done before outside of an arsenal, so no loss to me) and the wood is absolutely smooth and beautiful. One question for you RKIs: the serial number, 5828XX, appears smaller than those on other M1s I have seen. From how the parkerizing has taken to the metal, it almost looks like it might have been welded over at some point and re-stamped. Any thoughts on this? Frankly, I'm not too concerned. I got a good deal and the gun is really nice no matter what.
  10. That new owner is me. The gun is an original that was amnesty registered, and it comes with the amnesty papers. Interestingly, it was a Vietnam bring-back in 1967, but it does not appear to be a Russian capture. According to the seller (the second owner), the Army officer who eventually registered it traded an Air Force sgt. a case of beer and a Time magazine for it--a good trade, indeed. The barrel and receiver match, it is a Steyr 1940 gun, and the original finish is about 75%. It also comes with Frank's book, four mags, sling, extra FBP bolt, shipping and insurance, and transfer tax. All considered, I figure the gun itself was about $9500.
  11. QUOTE (Wackiforkhaki @ Apr 29 2004, 02:59 PM)Where can I get a bring-back for $10,000? It looks like JLM has a refinished C&R gun for $9500 over at Subguns. I found my C&R from a lead on this board.
  12. QUOTE (Wackiforkhaki @ Apr 27 2004, 10:06 PM)Does anyone know of a cheaper MP40 tube gun currently for sale? When I talked with him about three weeks ago, Jim McCloud (JLM from subguns.com) had three tube MP-40s for $7500 each. I decided that if tube guns were going for around $8000, I'd just fork over another $2000 and get an original bring-back.
  13. How "necessary" is a loader for the MP-40 mags? I don't have my gun or mags, yet, so I have no idea.
  14. I am looking for MP-40 magazines. Can anyone recommend a good buy? Thanks.
  15. I am seriously looking at MP-40 tube guns but I'm not sure which one to get. Is any particular tube manufacturer better than another? I'd prefer to get one that looks as close to an original as possible (i.e. tube manufacturer markings not visible when gun is assembled, etc.). Any help is greatly appreciated.
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