clancey1849 Posted November 21, 2014 Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 I had to replace my semiauto firing pin, ordered one from as it turned out, the Tommy Gun shop. It is properly installed, but the weapon will not fire now. It is cocked and I cannot get the frame off the receiver with the weapon cocked. Given that the Tommy Gun shop told me when my old bolt and firing pin supposedly screwed up, that they had to install this new and improved bolt that looks just like the one I had in it before, The firing pin they sent me should work. Any ideas on how to get the receiver off the frame so I can trouble shoot it. I do not want to send it to the Tommy Gun shop again. Barring that, can anyone recommend someone else who can work on this thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clancey1849 Posted November 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 Would a moderator please move this post to the semi auto board please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motorcar Posted November 22, 2014 Report Share Posted November 22, 2014 The semi auto firing pin is not a drop in replacement, it must me fitted to the gun. Even though it fits the bolt properly there is more material where it engages the sear, that is the area that must be ground to correct size. This is assuming you have the right pin, there were two types. PK of Diamond K can do this task, contact him for turnaround time and price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clancey1849 Posted November 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2014 Would you have contact information for PK? And thanks for the info also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motorcar Posted November 25, 2014 Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 "FAQS Check here first" Section pinned at the top of the main Thompson Submachinegun Board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deerslayer Posted November 29, 2014 Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 You'll have to likely remove the safety so you can use a small screw driver to release the sear far enough to let go of the firing pin. Remove a little of the firing pin until the normal trigger pull will let it release. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T Hound Posted December 28, 2014 Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 Good advice from Deer Slayer, as usual, but, although a little late, I would recommendgetting the AIG Armorer's DVD on Tsmg/Semi-autos which covers putting all theseparts back together once you do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolling block Posted February 11, 2015 Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 HiJust wondering if the Kahr 1927a1 firing pins will interchange with a 1980 manufacture West Hurley 27A5 that was made for the long Type 1 firing pin. My greatest concern that if the Kahr product is used,that any excess tolerance might crack the bolt face. Currently Numrich has only the Type 3 pin in stock and the tech claims both the Type 2 and 3 are compatible, however I am not certain if the so called "Type 1" pin is in reality the correct nomenclature for the long stem firing pin? In any case since having broken my firing pin, it has been nearly impossible to locate one of the identical types. I purchased one of the older "nub" type firing pins but they do not clear the firing pin channel. am curious of what to do, or a source for one of these firing pins. May have to ultimately try a precision machine shop to have one made. Thanks.George Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T Hound Posted February 11, 2015 Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 Hi Just wondering if the Kahr 1927a1 firing pins will interchange with a 1980 manufacture West Hurley 27A5 that was made for the long Type 1 firing pin. My greatest concern that if the Kahr product is used,that any excess tolerance might crack the bolt face. Currently Numrich has only the Type 3 pin in stock and the tech claims both the Type 2 and 3 are compatible, however I am not certain if the so called "Type 1" pin is in reality the correct nomenclature for the long stem firing pin? In any case since having broken my firing pin, it has been nearly impossible to locate one of the identical types. I purchased one of the older "nub" type firing pins but they do not clear the firing pin channel. am curious of what to do, or a source for one of these firing pins. May have to ultimately try a precision machine shop to have one made. Thanks. GeorgeThey are the same internals not withstanding small deviations in manufacturing between Kahr/AO and West Hurley. But before you do any replacements I would recommend doing a thorough study of the old and new parts before replacement Just to make sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolling block Posted February 11, 2015 Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 Thanks so much T-Hound! Appreciate the response....Actually I have been doing that and found that the Kahr firing pin has much smoother finish overall compared to my broken WH pin which is quite rougher and far more crudely finished . My biggest fear is an action lockup by the sear on the new part, thus I am studying this quite carefully. Once again much obliged for the advice!!George Layman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T Hound Posted February 11, 2015 Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 (edited) Thanks so much T-Hound! Appreciate the response....Actually I have been doing that and found that the Kahr firing pin has much smoother finish overall compared to my broken WH pin which is quite rougher and far more crudely finished . My biggest fear is an action lockup by the sear on the new part, thus I am studying this quite carefully. Once again much obliged for the advice!! George LaymanAlso, you should note from the advice given in the 2nd comment by Motorcar, that if you remove material from the bottom of the pin that catches the sear you will have more than a lock-up problem. It could cause the sear not to catch and then you get into an Olfsen/AR 15 situation where it might go partially full-auto for a burst. So be careful what you remove from the bottom of the pin. John/T Hound Edited February 11, 2015 by T Hound Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolling block Posted February 11, 2015 Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 Thank you John for the very helpful points. Will do.George Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike in pa Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 Tag for when mine breaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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