Tman Posted October 20, 2005 Report Share Posted October 20, 2005 Guys, I recently got a good deal on a non-crossbolt stock for my WH28 but when I tried to put on the metal, it won't fit. The buttplate seems to have been bent because it doesn't sit flush with the stock. The stock slide also doesn't fit. The screw holes dont match up with out relieving some of the wood. I really didn't want to start carving on this stock. The stock slide is marked on the underside with a 'p'. I couldn' t find anything in Franks book on that particular mark. The buttplate is unmarked. The stock is ink marked with a 'W' in the inlet for the stock slide and also has a stamped 'W' on the butt end around the oiler hole. Any ideas? Should I just get new parts? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gijive Posted October 20, 2005 Report Share Posted October 20, 2005 QUOTE (Tman @ Oct 20 2005, 08:32 AM)The stock slide is marked on the underside with a 'p'. I couldn' t find anything in Franks book on that particular mark. Tman, Sometimes the replacement butt stocks don't exactly fit the earlier metal parts found on the early guns. I believe the "P" maked slide attachment is made by Pitney Bowes. P was their contractor code and I have seen many slides with the P mark. The stock butt end contour varies from the early numbered stocks to the various contractors that made the replacement stocks. Most butt plates need to be gently bent to conform to the contour of the particlur stock. As far as the slide not fitting, I haven't run into that problem. The slides vary slightly in dimension and some fit snug and some are looser, depending on the butt stock. Gently sanding the inside walls of the cut-out area might do the trick. If the screw holes don't line up then I would consider getting a different butt stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deerslayer Posted October 20, 2005 Report Share Posted October 20, 2005 Well, usually a guy alters the cheapest part. In your case you can bend the butt plate to fit the stock contour, then you will probably still have to sand the wood as most are slighly oversized (though you probably won't be able to get it perfect), and remove the wood to let the slide fit properly. This would be cheapest and easiest solution. If you are good with a router, you can mark the stock and refit the slide pretty easy. The slide assembly is the most valuable part so I wouldn't touch that. How nice do you want it to look is the question, Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TommyGunner Posted October 20, 2005 Report Share Posted October 20, 2005 Greg, Those non crossbotl buttstocks can be found in the raw at gun parts 3/$10 I think. Pretty cheap to replace. Unless you mean the kind with no sling swivel cutout. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/wink.gif The condition varies though and I find you would ususally have to buy 3 to find one real nice one. Damon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bug Posted October 20, 2005 Report Share Posted October 20, 2005 The "W" is Wild Fowler Decoy Co and the "P" is Petroleum Heat&Power of Stamford CN. The gross mismatch is a surprise as both are WWll items. Given the low cost of the the butt stocks listed above, I would pick a few of them up and try for a better fit. If this fails, modify the wood and spare the metal. Sell the unused butt stocks. Bob D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSMGguy Posted October 20, 2005 Report Share Posted October 20, 2005 It's a surprise that your butt plate doesn't fit better. Each WWII USGI butt plate that I've installed was a nice fit for the contour of the stock. A little hand fitting is otherwise the norm, even working with original NOS parts. Expect to have to gently relieve the slide channel. I use fine sand paper taped to a sharp cornered wooden block. It makes for a neat, invisible job. The wood may be too high there as well, and you can gently sand it down, fitting as you go, so that the wood does not contact the underside of the frame.Yes, fit the stock to the butt plate, not the other way around. The stock should "overhang" the butt plate just slightly, 1/16" is about right all around. When you have your butt plate otherwise fitted, screw it into place. Run a sharp pencil around the edge of the butt plate, leaving a mark on the stock at the proper interval all the way around. Then remove the butt plate and neatly sand the stock to the pencil line. USGI butt plates were never "blended" to the wood. This practice allowed enough wood to remain for future refinishing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gijive Posted October 21, 2005 Report Share Posted October 21, 2005 QUOTE (TSMGguy @ Oct 20 2005, 01:30 PM)Yes, fit the stock to the butt plate, not the other way around. TSMGguy, That depends on the replacement butt stock and the contractor of the butt plate you are dealing with. The early and late war butt stocks and butt plates have markedly different contours. In some cases, the butt plate has to be reformed to fit the butt stock you are fitting it to. Taking wood off the butt stock does not help depending on the wood and butt plate contractor. I have refinished many stocks and have noticed many variations, depending on the year the parts were made and contractor variations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tman Posted October 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2005 Thanks for the help guys! A closer look at the butt plate revealed the trap door has a nice dent in it so it may have taken a good hit before I got my hands on it. A new butt plate may be in order. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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